Tim downing

If I understand things correctly, when tuning a guitar with a tuner it's normal for the "Attack" to register as a little...

I've got a MacBook Pro 15.4 inch Late 2008 model (Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, Hybrid Intel+NVidia graphics) It's on it's third...

technically that's a picture of a headphone plug. Specifically it looks to be a 1/8 inch/3.5mm TRRS plug (tip-ring-ring-sleeve. I'd strip a bit of insulation on the insulated wires and test for continuity between the 4 contacts on the plug, and the 4 conductors. If it follows the established standard, starting with the tip is the left audio channel, first ring is the right audio channel, second ring is a return channel for an independent audio signal, and the sleeve is a common ground/shield. The uninsulated (Silver) one is probably sleeve/ground/shield If you have a voltmeter with alligator clamp or grabber leads, you should detect continuity between the uninsulated wire and the sleeve. Strip a bit from one wire clamp it on one lead and touch the other lead to the other three positions on the plug. Hopefully only one of them will show conductivity and then you'll know which contact on the replacement jack to solder that wire to. The other possibility would involve taking the headset apart and tracking it...

Probably cracked the board inside and broke the conductive traces between d-pad start and select buttons and the encoder that sends the data back to the snes. not much you can do unless you can find another controller with damaged casing and/or buttons but the circuit board is intact.

Was magenta at least sort of working before cleaning? Possibilities: Out of magenta ink. No Magenta in the tank=no Magenta on the page. Print heads: (The bit that sprays the ink onto the page when the computer tells it to) You'll need to look up what type of print heads your printer has: permanent, separate replaceable part or tank-integrated. Print heads can wear out. All old HP consumer printers and the consumer Epson(s) that I've seen have tank-integrated print heads, therefore new tank=new print head. An Epson Artisan may be designed for higher volume though and may have a separate head module. (My old Canon Pixma had a separate head module, and if you removed all 6 ink tanks you could lift a lever, remove the heads, and replace them) All consumer inkjets I've seen have the ink tanks moving back and forth across the page. Some professional models have a small reservoir that moves and docks next to the main ink tanks to top off, so if that's the case the transfer system could be clogged or failing....

First thing to do is connect to an external display, see if the external display lights up. It's possible that the laptop thinks it's closed, and therefore once higher functions take over it assumes a signal from the inaccessible power button must be erroneous. Shine a bright flashlight across the display at an acute angle while you inspect it from a normal viewing angle. If you see something that resembles a boot logo, Windows splash screen, Windows Login, or your desktop, your backlight and/or inverter in your LCD has failed, although it wouldn't explain unresponsiveness to the power button. Most modern laptops (AFAIK) use permanent magnets in the display and magnetic force sensors in the base to detect screen closure, as no moving parts=fewer failures, but they can be faked out by external magnets.

If it works while headphones are plugged in, and rebooting hasn't fixed the problem, there's probably a physical problem in or around the headphone jack itself. The phones I've had (Moto Droid, Moto Droid 3, Samsung Galaxy S3, iPhone 7) would all pause media playback if wired headphones became disconnected. (Come to think of it, I think my iPod Touch(es) did that too) they would not resume playback on reinsertion, probably because with media paused there was no return current on the ground. Headphone jacks in most phones either have some form of micro-switch, or a contact that senses voltage flowing on the ground line. The purpose is to detect when you plug in headphones, and mute the internal speaker. Wired earbud remotes generally alter the resistance of the ground return and the phone interprets different levels of resistance as different buttons. If some form of conductive debris or corrosion is causing some unintended current to flow, that could be causing the problem.

I did have a MacBook Pro battery where a cell died, and it would shut off cold at about 80% charge. in that case however I could still charge it to 100% and use it on the battery again until it got to 80 again.

Don't know if they'll still do this, but I took my 15" MacBook Pro to the apple store and they gave me a free replacement for my "Bloated" battery. (this was some time ago, when there was that batch of Sony Li-ion cells that were overheating and burning, so I may have benefitted from a quiet "Capture" order. Also find a battery supplier in your area and give them that bloated battery for recycling. it may still be a fire risk

It's an internal power supply, so that makes things a bit risky. If you are able to remove the power supply board and inspect it, look for bulging and/or leaking capacitors. If you find any its probable that replacing them will fix the issue. whether I'd go that route at this point is a toss-up. Generally electronics that last for 1 year will last for several, but the failure rate seems, (in my experience) to start trending upwards again at around 10 years.

It looks like that thing predates modern "Switching" power supplies. That being said, it is therefore highly unlikely that you could convert it with just a soldering gun, a plug and some wire. If it was made for the US/North America market and you are now in Europe what you need is a step-down transformer. (Europe uses ~210V US is ~110) Creating a replacement power adapter board is beyond my pay grade If you do get an adapter, make sure it is a transformer. Switching power supplies like those used in laptop power bricks, and cell phone chargers can adjust their operation for 110 vs 220 operation. Inexpensive adapters only convert the plug and rely on the power supply on the other end to deal with the voltage adjustment.

If you have, in fact, mistakenly formatted the system disk, there may be recovery utilities you can burn to a bootable CD/DVD that include an unformatter. I've never used an unformatter, so I can't vouch for quality or effectiveness. If you were running Windows 10 all you need to do is download the Windows 10 installation ISO file and burn it to a DVD, or a bootable USB key. AFAIK, all windows 10 computers register a hash of certain unique identifiers with Microsoft, and when your computer goes to "Activate" Microsoft will match the hash with the one it stored when Lenovo installed the OS, (or you upgraded from 7/8 to 10) and you're off and running. Any data and applications however will be lost if you reinstall windows.

Personally I’d include ease of finding suitable replacement parts in a reparability score, I’ve worked on these things and would rate them at 8.5-9.5 for non-standard motherboard, motherboard mountings, and power supply.

If purchasing rather than leasing, I think the point was retire the first few that break out of warranty, and start parting them out. Compaq was very good about keeping the same line going for a long time so the parts would be compatible.

Just because it has a 1000 W PSU doesn’t mean it’s drawing 1000 Watts at all times.

Realistically, making a computer modular and upgradable means longer service life and less e-waste.

If I was looking for an engineering thesis I might see if I could quantify the environmental impact of running the PSU at a less efficient level vs. other potential environmental impacts, including costs of shipping and recycling, and longevity of components.

My old PCI-X G5 PowerMac drew about 125w at idle, and about 300 running folding@home on both CPUs, (according to my Kill-a-watt) despite having a PSU rated for well over that.

Not sure I agree with 10/10 for a machine that has a proprietary PSU. If it had a standard sized/shaped ATX PSU there would be no doubt that I could actually get a suitable replacement 5 years later.

Actually you do need to remove the plastic air deflector, as the fan in question is behind it.

There is a little flat, white, Multi-wire connector in the upper-left corner.

I suspect that this is where the optional Bluetooth module would be located, can anyone confirm this?

Thanks,

Tim D.

The Link to Dell.com is returning a 404

I found a copy on archive.org at:

https://archive.org/details/dell-manual-...