David

I have this component, I think it is a voltage regulator. The original is burning hot so I am going to replace it to see if t...

Replacing an LCD model B116XTN02.3, but I am only able to find it with side brackets. I need it to have top brackets! http://...

Here is the link to the memory I want to buy: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as... It looks like it should work but I ...

Hi everyone, I am experimenting with cleaning up water damage from various iPhone logic boards. So far my luck has been maybe...

I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to test a logic board for function without installing it back into the fram...

Had an interesting experience on the highway yesterday. After a popping noise a repetative noise was heard like a belt flippi...

I have replaced my magsafe adaptor on a Macbook Pro 15" A1278. I have replaced the Magsafe adaptor and used a new charger. No...

Apple MacBook Pro "Core i5" 2.3 13" Early 2011 Specs Identifiers: Early 2011 13" - MC700LL/A - MacBookPro8,1 - A1278 - 2419* ...

My iPad shows charging symbol, but is not charging... See image, it is showing the charging symbol, but not charging... What ...

Will the PCB/Interconnection/Audio board work even if it is for the GSM model? I know that it has an extra plug, but would it...

On step 8 of the iFicit teardown you see the blue boxes indicated antenna spring contacts. Make sure they are pointed up enough that they make contact with the antenna on the back cover.

They are different and will not function properly.

Those boxes are usually indicative of a bad connection to the LCD. Where the bad connection is would be anyone's guess. The cable could have been strained where it attaches to the LCD, or it could have been bent, folded, stretched along it's length. It could also be the connector on the ribbon side, the connector on the logic board side or simply both of them where they meet. You may want to replace the LCD to get new cabling. If that doesn't fix it you are likely going to be dealing with logic board damage.

This is most likely a problem with the screen. See if your vendor will replace it.

This issue is because of a firmware issue. The point of manufacture did not flash the appropriate firmware to the LCD. You need to replace the LCD with a new one - but maybe from a different vendor so that the chances of the problem repeating itself is reduced.

Have you installed a new digitizer? If you have you will probably need a new - higher grade version. Also check the back of the cable for solder pads and exposed metal. You may have to cover some metal but that won't help with the lock/volume problems.

Don't count on replacing just the glass. The part is cheap yes, but you will need many more tools, including a method to cure new adhesive. It is a very involved repair and if you are like me it might take a couple broken LCDs out of your first batch to get the hang of it. I have it worth my while to buy the LCD assembly with the small parts preinstalled. Makes the installation much faster and almost completely painless. A total of like 9 screws and four plugs (I unplug the battery).

This can happen is the battery is left plugged in during the repair and can sometimes call for a new front facing camera.

Look at this step, the circles indicate where the long ones go vs the short ones. See instructions on right. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement

I have heard two options, it is grounding to the frame when closed or it is a cooling sticker. http://www.etechparts.com/product-p/822-5644.htm