As a note, I would suggest posting the year of manufacture and the model number as can be found by opening the door and looking around that rim area... What scares me most (great bedside manner, no?) is the absence of codes. The reason is that this could be a blatant sign that one of those dang expensive boards is bad, and I will have to leave that to a pro. Until a pro jumps in, I would suggest two courses of action. First, run a diagnostic. The procedure should be detailed in a pamphlet you should be able to find taped to the inside right wall of the washer (just remove the three screws in the back along the top that hold it on, then push it back and lift), or you can get this: Link text (You might have to copy the entire link and paste it into your browser) Though I strongly recommend reading the entire pamphlet, the immediate material is on page 6-8, followed by what each phase of the test is testing. If cycling through this does not lead you to the answer, I would then pick up off this board the first...
OK, I see many repeats of the same good advice and a few jerks telling those of us who either want or have to do the work ourselves to call a tech. Next time I find the place that the tech will work for free I will call them, for right now THAT is my budget. To sum up and add (I am posting for I do NOT see mention anywhere of point #6 that I add in) to all the above, and if you have a problem, I hope you make it this far: 1) Unplug the machine 2) If it was not able to drain after at least 4 or 5 attempts, get those soggy clothes out of there and try to bail out all you can. 2.5) IF you can tilt the machine back, do so, but not so far that it closes in on wanting to fall back - if the front starts to slip forward, you could be in for a real unpleasant time. 3) Remove the kick panel - normally three screws unless you lost one like I have. 4) With many towels at hand, unscrew that strainer. Clean out anything there. Check the port inside the cavity and to the right (towards the motor). This is the direction...