Güncel sürümün sahibi: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when they were used hard and not as a hobbyist camera body. The 50k shutter on these entry-level bodies was pulled straight from the APS film parts contract graveyard retrofitted into a DSLR body and reused knowing the people buying them won't hit that point anytime soon; it'll be OOW and cut off from service with most of these; even today with the non i bodies. ***''Canon used a bespoke part in the prosumer and pro DSLRs, even in their infancy. They'd be doing shutters a lot if they did. AFAIK, it was not until the T1i Canon retired this APS part nonsense and put the same 100k shutter into the entry-level body. It was purely a cost savings issue on early Digital Rebels that nerfed their long-term reliability.''***[br] | |
| Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cheap bodies will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (the 77D dangerously similar to the T7i, but with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the 1/4000 mech shutter compared to the 1/8000 baseline set with the true "2-digit D" bodies. Even I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a well used 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body despite being so similar to the T7i.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is incorrect S/N deviations, "issues" like Canon's language lock on the "sold in Japan" bodies; or in some cases, being told by Canon it's grey market.***[br] | |
| ***On that note... unless you know better (or just don't care if the discount matches the grey status, which is my take on it) it's going to be easy to get burned by a "gray" RF body because they don't use different nameplates outside of ones destined to be sold in Japan. The EEA/ROW bodies lack the JDM language lock. You may need to ask the country of origin it was meant to be sold in if it has gray market red flags.*** | |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is grey market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. For example, a US body will be different from an EEA region camera.*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "grey market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the Japanese language lock.*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount as an "international version". Nobody who does this with the knowledge of to navigate the grey market so well that they import the camera sans a middleman like a reseller marking it up WILL BUY ONE OF THESE TURDS (2). I can buy the USDM version from Best Buy like the T7 for ~$480 or less, so there's near zero savings; plus lacking a warranty. No thanks... Not worth burning your Customs allowance (internet purchase or travel) on this waste. Get a nice body at that point and treat yourself at that point (ex: 80D/90D/Prosumer and high-end EOS R).***[br] | |
| ***''(2)While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair.''*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| - | * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan |
| + | * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan's "JDM" version, grey market ROW. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS. Easily identified as grey market.*** |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter is mechanically "expired". 100% chance the shutter you need will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself buying a newer camera body. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when they were used hard and not as a hobbyist camera body. The 50k shutter on these entry-level bodies was pulled straight from the APS film parts contract graveyard retrofitted into a DSLR body and reused knowing the people buying them won't hit that point anytime soon; it'll be OOW and cut off from service with most of these; even today with the non i bodies. ***''Canon used a bespoke part in the prosumer and pro DSLRs, even in their infancy. They'd be doing shutters a lot if they did. AFAIK, it was not until the T1i Canon retired this APS part nonsense and put the same 100k shutter into the entry-level body. It was purely a cost savings issue on early Digital Rebels that nerfed their long-term reliability.''***[br] | |
| Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cheap bodies will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (the 77D dangerously similar to the T7i, but with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the 1/4000 mech shutter compared to the 1/8000 baseline set with the true "2-digit D" bodies. Even I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a well used 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body despite being so similar to the T7i.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is incorrect S/N deviations, "issues" like Canon's language lock on the "sold in Japan" bodies; or in some cases, being told by Canon it's grey market.***[br] | |
| ***On that note... unless you know better (or just don't care if the discount matches the grey status, which is my take on it) it's going to be easy to get burned by a "gray" RF body because they don't use different nameplates outside of ones destined to be sold in Japan. The EEA/ROW bodies lack the JDM language lock. You may need to ask the country of origin it was meant to be sold in if it has gray market red flags.*** | |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is grey market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. For example, a US body will be different from an EEA region camera.*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "grey market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the Japanese language lock.*** | |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount |
| - | *While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair. |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount as an "international version". Nobody who does this with the knowledge of to navigate the grey market so well that they import the camera sans a middleman like a reseller marking it up WILL BUY ONE OF THESE TURDS (2). I can buy the USDM version from Best Buy like the T7 for ~$480 or less, so there's near zero savings; plus lacking a warranty. No thanks... Not worth burning your Customs allowance (internet purchase or travel) on this waste. Get a nice body at that point and treat yourself at that point (ex: 80D/90D/Prosumer and high-end EOS R).***[br] |
| + | ***''(2)While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair.''*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter is mechanically "expired". 100% chance the shutter you need will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself buying a newer camera body. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when they were used hard and not as a hobbyist camera body. The 50k shutter on these entry-level bodies was pulled straight from the APS film parts contract graveyard retrofitted into a DSLR body and reused knowing the people buying them won't hit that point anytime soon; it'll be OOW and cut off from service with most of these; even today with the non i bodies. ***''Canon used a bespoke part in the prosumer and pro DSLRs, even in their infancy. They'd be doing shutters a lot if they did. AFAIK, it was not until the T1i Canon retired this APS part nonsense and put the same 100k shutter into the entry-level body. It was purely a cost savings issue on early Digital Rebels that nerfed their long-term reliability.''***[br] | |
| Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cheap bodies will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (the 77D dangerously similar to the T7i, but with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the 1/4000 mech shutter compared to the 1/8000 baseline set with the true "2-digit D" bodies. Even I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a well used 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body despite being so similar to the T7i.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is incorrect S/N deviations, "issues" like Canon's language lock on the "sold in Japan" bodies; or in some cases, being told by Canon it's grey market.***[br] | |
| ***On that note... unless you know better (or just don't care if the discount matches the grey status, which is my take on it) it's going to be easy to get burned by a "gray" RF body because they don't use different nameplates outside of ones destined to be sold in Japan. The EEA/ROW bodies lack the JDM language lock. You may need to ask the country of origin it was meant to be sold in if it has gray market red flags.*** | |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is grey market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. For example, a US body will be different from an EEA region camera.*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "grey market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the Japanese language lock.*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount under the "international version" label. However, I do not know anyone who (knowingly*)buys grey market who would directly import one of these 4-digit bodies. Think about it: If I'm going to potentially need to pay duty to import a camera from an EU member state to the US, why would I import something I can buy from Best Buy for ~$480? NO! I'm going to import an 80D, 90D or one of the newer 5D's like the 5DIII/IV; or an RF camera like the R10.***[br] | |
| - | |
| + | *While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair. |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter is mechanically "expired". 100% chance the shutter you need will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself buying a newer camera body. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was |
| - | Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these |
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when they were used hard and not as a hobbyist camera body. The 50k shutter on these entry-level bodies was pulled straight from the APS film parts contract graveyard retrofitted into a DSLR body and reused knowing the people buying them won't hit that point anytime soon; it'll be OOW and cut off from service with most of these; even today with the non i bodies. ***''Canon used a bespoke part in the prosumer and pro DSLRs, even in their infancy. They'd be doing shutters a lot if they did. AFAIK, it was not until the T1i Canon retired this APS part nonsense and put the same 100k shutter into the entry-level body. It was purely a cost savings issue on early Digital Rebels that nerfed their long-term reliability.''***[br] |
| + | Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cheap bodies will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (the 77D dangerously similar to the T7i, but with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the 1/4000 mech shutter compared to the 1/8000 baseline set with the true "2-digit D" bodies. Even I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a well used 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body despite being so similar to the T7i.[br] |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| - | ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking, or Canon telling you it's gray market (if it isn't language restricted it's a non-Japan ROW variant; likely from the EEA in the EU).*** |
| + | ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is incorrect S/N deviations, "issues" like Canon's language lock on the "sold in Japan" bodies; or in some cases, being told by Canon it's grey market.***[br] |
| + | ***On that note... unless you know better (or just don't care if the discount matches the grey status, which is my take on it) it's going to be easy to get burned by a "gray" RF body because they don't use different nameplates outside of ones destined to be sold in Japan. The EEA/ROW bodies lack the JDM language lock. You may need to ask the country of origin it was meant to be sold in if it has gray market red flags.*** |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| - | * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is gray market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. A US body will be different from an EEA region camera, for example.*** |
| - | * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a gray market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount under the "international version" label. However, I do not know anyone who buys gray market who would directly import one of these 4-digit bodies. Think about it: If I'm risking paying duty to have my camera from an EU member state and "own" an EEA camera in the US, why in the world would I import something I can buy from Best Buy for ~$480? NO! I'm going to import an 80D, 90D or one of the newer 5D's like the 5DIII/IV; or an RF camera like the R10. However, novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers with bundle accessories unaware of the nameplate being an indicator it is GRAY MARKET.*** |
| + | * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is grey market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. For example, a US body will be different from an EEA region camera.*** |
| + | * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "grey market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the Japanese language lock.*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount under the "international version" label. However, I do not know anyone who (knowingly*)buys grey market who would directly import one of these 4-digit bodies. Think about it: If I'm going to potentially need to pay duty to import a camera from an EU member state to the US, why would I import something I can buy from Best Buy for ~$480? NO! I'm going to import an 80D, 90D or one of the newer 5D's like the 5DIII/IV; or an RF camera like the R10.***[br] |
| + | ****While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| - | If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired |
| + | If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter is mechanically "expired". 100% chance the shutter you need will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself buying a newer camera body. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the APS SLR cameras Canon released under the EOS IX nameplate. When APS failed, they ended up reusing the shutters in the EOS DSLRs for several years on the cheap entry-level APS-C bodies; the higher end cameras never used this shutter and were always rated for 100k. AFAIK it wasn't until the T1i (and subsequent models) that the basic APS-C bodies got a 100k shutter and no longer recycled APS film camera parts. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process.[br] | |
| Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cameras will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| - | ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking or Canon telling you it's gray from the |
| + | ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking, or Canon telling you it's gray market (if it isn't language restricted it's a non-Japan ROW variant; likely from the EEA in the EU).*** |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is gray market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. A US body will be different from an EEA region camera, for example.*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a gray market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount under the "international version" label. However, I do not know anyone who buys gray market who would directly import one of these 4-digit bodies. Think about it: If I'm risking paying duty to have my camera from an EU member state and "own" an EEA camera in the US, why in the world would I import something I can buy from Best Buy for ~$480? NO! I'm going to import an 80D, 90D or one of the newer 5D's like the 5DIII/IV; or an RF camera like the R10. However, novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers with bundle accessories unaware of the nameplate being an indicator it is GRAY MARKET.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the APS SLR cameras Canon released under the EOS IX nameplate. When APS failed, they ended up reusing the shutters in the EOS DSLRs for several years on the cheap entry-level APS-C bodies; the higher end cameras never used this shutter and were always rated for 100k. AFAIK it wasn't until the T1i (and subsequent models) that the basic APS-C bodies got a 100k shutter and no longer recycled APS film camera parts. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process.[br] | |
| Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cameras will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking or Canon telling you it's gray from the UK or an EU member state.*** | |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| - | * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** |
| - | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). |
| + | * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is gray market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. A US body will be different from an EEA region camera, for example.*** |
| + | * ***3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a gray market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount under the "international version" label. However, I do not know anyone who buys gray market who would directly import one of these 4-digit bodies. Think about it: If I'm risking paying duty to have my camera from an EU member state and "own" an EEA camera in the US, why in the world would I import something I can buy from Best Buy for ~$480? NO! I'm going to import an 80D, 90D or one of the newer 5D's like the 5DIII/IV; or an RF camera like the R10. However, novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers with bundle accessories unaware of the nameplate being an indicator it is GRAY MARKET.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] |
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the APS SLR cameras Canon released under the EOS IX nameplate. When APS failed, they ended up reusing the shutters in the EOS DSLRs for several years on the cheap entry-level APS-C bodies; the higher end cameras never used this shutter and were always rated for 100k. AFAIK it wasn't until the T1i (and subsequent models) that the basic APS-C bodies got a 100k shutter and no longer recycled APS film camera parts. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process.[br] |
| + | Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cameras will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body.[br] |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] | |
| ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking or Canon telling you it's gray from the UK or an EU member state.*** | |
| * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Just another nameplate change, the same cameras otherwise. Considered to be a gray market purchase unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] | |
| - | ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** |
| + | ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:***[br] |
| + | ***NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is the S/N, JDM language locking or Canon telling you it's gray from the UK or an EU member state.*** |
| + | * ***EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.*** |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Just another nameplate change, the same cameras otherwise. Considered to be a gray market purchase unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| - | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). |
| + | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Just another nameplate change, the same cameras otherwise. Considered to be a gray market purchase unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| - | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" |
| + | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are ALWAYS considered "gray market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Nameplate change, same cameras otherwise. Considered to be a gray market purchase unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Nameplate change, same cameras otherwise. Considered a gray market unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Nameplate change, same cameras otherwise. Considered to be a gray market purchase unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe). Nameplate change, same cameras otherwise. Considered a gray market unless you are in a country where they use the designation. Also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold under the gray market, but less popular due to the savings on "i" versions being great enough these can and do get skipped without big breaks on price.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] |
| - | I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD and similar firmware elements; essentially a similar setup to the T6s but with a marginally bigger LCD).[br] |
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard. The 50k shutter was a parts bin find derived from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras with smaller blades due to the APS-C sensor. It was commonly found in bodies like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT and made to work on entry-level DSLRs, so it was always delegated to "cheap" bodies until the T1i (and subsequent models) brought the baseline to 100k on anything released at that point. It saved them money once modified for APS-C, but they nerfed the lifetime of the bodies in the process. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. Yes, I remain leery they ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (dangerously similar to the T7i with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the same 1/4000 shutter speed and very similar firmware) making it to the point I'd put money down before verifying the click count.[br] |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] | |
| - | I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] |
| + | I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD and similar firmware elements; essentially a similar setup to the T6s but with a marginally bigger LCD).[br] |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** |
|---|---|
| + | ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] | |
| I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| - | * *** |
| + | * ***3-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| + | ***COMPLETION ANSWER*** |
|---|---|
| + | |
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] | |
| I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] | |
| I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** | |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| + | * ***EOS "Kiss" X: Japan gray market. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS.*** |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] | |
| I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] | |
| ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** | |
| * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** | |
| - | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies for markets outside of Japan; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful.[br] |
|---|---|
| - | ***(1)2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The 4-digit "D" is a designation for an EU/ROW (excluding Japan) gray market body. I would put more on the 77D making it to 100k if I were betting someone on the matter since the 2-digit "D" binning is better even if it's a T7i with a "2-digit D" LCD on top.*** |
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in.[br] |
| + | I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful to the point I would put money down on a 77D making it to 100k over a T7i (which is dangerously similar to the T7i, with a "D" top LCD.[br] |
| + | ***(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:*** |
| + | * ***2-digit: "real" "D" body*** |
| + | * ***4-digit "D": EU/ROW bodies; for all intents and purposes these are "gray market" bodies unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the JDM language lock.*** |
| + | * ***JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.*** |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D |
|---|---|
| - | *** |
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D(1)" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful.[br] |
| + | ***(1)2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The 4-digit "D" is a designation for an EU/ROW (excluding Japan) gray market body. I would put more on the 77D making it to 100k if I were betting someone on the matter since the 2-digit "D" binning is better even if it's a T7i with a "2-digit D" LCD on top.*** |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D*" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful.[br] | |
| - | *2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). 4-digit "D" is |
| + | ****2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). 4-digit "D" is a designation for a EU/ROW (excluding Japan) gray market body. I would put more on the 77D making it to 100k if I were betting someone on the matter since the 2-digit "D" binning is better even if it's a T7i with a "2-digit D" LCD on top.*** |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D*" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful.[br] | |
| - | *2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). 4-digit "D" is code for EU gray market. |
| + | *2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). 4-digit "D" is code for EU/ROW excluding Japan gray market. |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful. |
|---|---|
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D*" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful.[br] |
| + | *2-digit D like the 80D, or rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). 4-digit "D" is code for EU gray market. |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of |
|---|---|
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of modern bodies without the "i" or "D" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful. |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. |
|---|---|
| + | The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. I also still tend to doubt the lifespan of the modern bodies without the "i" or "D" designation due to being binned for cost reduction. They MIGHT make it to 100k, but it's doubtful. |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. | |
| These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. | |
| This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: | |
| [image|3114408] | |
| - | If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical |
| + | If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failure. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these. |
Durum:
open
Orijinal gönderinin sahibi: Nick
Metin:
The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when used hard because Canon reused the shutters from the entry-level 35mm SLR cameras like the Rebel 2000 in A LOT of these entry-level DSLRs to save money; the problem is it killed how long it lasts due to the lesser lifespan they were known for. AFAIK the T1i was the first time they stopped reusing film SLR parts and put a 100k shutter in. These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those. This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check: [image|3114408] If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter expired due to mechanical failed. Parts will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself with a newer camera body on these.
Durum:
open