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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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In spin cycle machine is banging and making lots of noise

When machine arrives to spin cycle (last 7 minutes) machine is banging and making lots of noise

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Puan 9

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I discovered that my drum is loose,have to open the outer tub to check

if the screw holes is ok or why it's loose.It was the spin basket aluminium part holding basket with bearing shaft.Why after 5 years this part aluminium was eaten by washing detergents which deposit was inside aluminium cast.whole part is only sold with basket for $489?? nice job Kenmore

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shaft has three arms holding basket or drum when the arm is broken you get big noise I can fix it but need aluminium welding or scrap washing machine to replace basket but before need a lot of cleaning and protective paint on arms to have no contact with detergent

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Amana Washer 4700 series have ( four plastic knuckels) that hold the four tub tension balancing rods. When one of them breaks the tub will wobble on the slightest load of clothes. Appears to be poor design feature. The plastic pieces can be gotten on E-Bay cheap. be careful to distribute the clothes evenly when you wash. Stay near the washer when you wash in case of other failures is a good practice.

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My machine does this also, but it is a Whirlpool Cabrio machine. I can't figure out how to open it and check the arms/knuckles, etc. holding the basket. I did notice when I remove heavier articles, such as towels, I can get it to stop. However, I'd sort of like to have clean towels too. Is there a trick to opening it?

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My washing machine drum on spin cycle is banging against the door making a very loud knocking noise. Have you any ideal what it can be.

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I'd bet the bearing.

Tub Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.

Rear Drum with Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.

Drive Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced

U-Joint Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.

Motor Coupling

If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Clutch

If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

Transmission

If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Drain Pump

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Drive Motor

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

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Puan 5

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Or it could be like what happened to my washer and one of the tension springs just came off. They always leave the cheapest fix off the list don’t ya know.

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The one I have does not have a belt it is a direct drive. I thought the stator and rotor are bad. There is a loud squeak coming from the rotor. I didn't see any play in the bearing.

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Puan 2

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How do I get to the drain pump to check if it's stopped up

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I have a top loader and it bangs against the frame when washing, but does fine when spinning. Please help!!!

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Often this complaint is caused by a broken spider that connects the drive shaft to the drum itself. It is replaceable, but a pretty big job. If you can lift the drum up from inside more than a half inch or so, it will be the spider and not a bearing issue.

The problem is that the corrosives in the detergent weakens the aluminum spider and on the spin cycle it fails. The spider, due to corrosion is not weldable in any permanent way.

Always leave the door open a bit on front load washers so the inside drys out between loads. This will reduce the corrosive action. Letting it dry out will also keep bacteria from making the drum smell.

Good luck

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BTW, I should have mentioned, this is for front loading washers only.

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banging could it be the sring tubis laying off blance

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My machine bangs every time its in the spin cycle please can anyone help me with this before i throw it out the door

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My machine bangs loudly while spinning and the machine though has been brought for over nine years but was never used, so it's practically new. What should I do. The make is Hoover.

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I took the lower front panel off and taped down the safety switch on the right. When I ran the machine and got the knocking sound during the spin cycle, I pushed (with a stick of wood) on the outer tub (which does not spin), and the knock went away completely. I didn’t have to push hard. So I put a small spring from the top of the left front damper to an existing hole in the cabinet front, and that solved the problem. I presume that there is backlash (looseness) in one of the tub support somewhere, and the spring keeps the backlash from banging. Been working fine now for a month.

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My mechine as devloped a loud noise from the inside the tub it sounds like a plastic cap thats being thrown around the inside tub whats the chance some large foreign object is in theis.and if so how do i get it out ..

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This is what mine is doing did you find out what it was

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My washer was resonating the drain hose during the spin cycle.

It was vibrating against the inside wall of the washer causing a really loud repetitive noise.

I opened the back panel and duct taped the hose to the inside wall and it fixed the problem.

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Related to what Jeff Weaver Said in the comments above (back in 2016), I did experiment the Spider arm failure on a similar Kenmore machine just last week.

The spider arm is the part that holds the drum to the bearings and motor. It’s made of a white “pot” metal.

This metal does not like cold water, since it make the cheap detergents stick on it, which causes premature corrosion. (High end detergents might help a bit I guess).

Corrosion makes that part unbalanced and makes the machines banging around more and more as time goes, until the vibrations are unbearable and the bearing starts screaming. In my case, it made the tub seal scrub against the spinning arm and started smoking during the final spin.

Guy at the part shop suggested to use warm water at all time to extent the life of the spider arm, as well as leaving the door open at all time when not in use, to keep the parts dry inside.

Here are some pictures I took in the process of replacing the spider arm. The thing was so badly corroded that it completely fell apart in dust when I removed it. (Good thing I did this in my garage…).

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I paid ~ 170$ CAD for the replacement spider arm, which is completely worth it for a 1200+$ Kenmore Machine that is only 7 years old. It’s now running smoothly and I expect at least another 8 to 10 years without this to fail again, with better care this time!

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I hear you about the costs and energy of using warm water. But I like to keep my appliances for a long time. I don’t want to calculate the costs and energy of replacing entire washing machines every 5 to 10 years!

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