2.3GHz, 2.6GHz, or 2.7GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.7GHz) with 6MB shared L3 cache.

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Replaced MagSafe 2 DC-in board, laptop still not charging. What now?

I followed the instructions fully and now my laptop will not charge. I followed apple's instructions on how perform a SMC reset and a NVRAM/PRAM reset, but my laptop is still not charging. I also purchased a brand new charger from the apple store.

Is there a way to re-sync the logic board and the MagSafe 2 DC in board that I'm missing?

Could it be that the DC in board that I purchased is faulty?

Or is it that the logic board is faulty?

My laptop still turns on and runs but I only have 58% of battery life left.

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Yes - could be either of those things. Why did you feel the need to replace the DC in board in the first place? Spill? Fall?

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My charger was frayed and it would get warm. Sometimes I would have to play with the cord to get it to charge. One day I was playing with the court when I heard a popping sound near the MagSafe 2 DC-in Board and I smelled the burnt electronics oder as well. The light on the MagSafe 2 charger went out as well.

I thought I may have fried my charger so I purchased a brand-new $80 charger from the Apple Store but my laptop would not charge. So I went through the common troubleshooting procedures and finally decided to change my DC–in board. When I opened up the MacBook I discovered that the P7 transistor on the old DC-in bold board was burnt out, as indicated by the black soot around it.

I purchased a brand-new board from iFixit but I noticed that the wire colors were different than the wires on my original board. My original board had all-black wires while the board from iFixit has three black wires and two gray.


What I've decided to is was downgrade my laptop to the original OS which was OS X 10.8 mountain lion and see if the reason why the iFixIt DC-in board doesn't work is related to firmware or the OS X operating.

I'm thinking that when I upgraded to Mavericks my firmware may have upgraded the original DC-in board, but most likely not, I'm just desperate just trying everything, this is a shot in the dark.


I took it Apple, they couldn't do the repair at the store do they sent it to their repair depot for repair at a flat rate. Turns out it was the DC in board and the Logic board.

The cost was very very reasonable for what they had to repair/replace.


Thanks for taking the time to return and let us all know the true problem and it's solution


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