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Fault in lock when trying to rinse or spin

Won't spin or rinse due to lock coming on did settings said nothing the model is w80t65c

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This may or may not be a fix for your problem.

The safety/cutout switch is usually turned on by closing the lid whereby the protruding “thing” on the front (side away from the control panel) goes into a slot in the top assembly that allows the switch to work. The switch mechanism for this is under the slot in the top-cover. The mechanism is held in by one or maybe two screws. If the screw(s) loosens and allows the switch mechanism to become floppy, the thing protruding into the slot may not properly actuate the switch.

You can fairly easily get to the switch mechanism. FIRST unplug the washer from the AC outlet. It’s best then to remove the lid, but probably not totally necessary. So either remove or hold/prop the lid open so you can access the two, small (about 1 inch, 3 sided) rubber-like covers on the far right and left side of the top near the soap and bleach dispensers. You gently pry them out with a screwdriver or the like.

Under each of these covers is a Philips head screw that you need to removed. This allows the large top assembly to rotate upward to access the switch mechanism and its screw(s) in the front, center of the top assembly. There should be a wire going into it. Hopefully the screw(s) is loose and just needs to be tightened to secure the switch mechanism. (Also, check that the switch wires are properly tightly connected to the switch mechanism, although this is not likely the cause of your problem.)

Good luck.

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This info was super helpful! I really appreciate you taking the time to share this knowledge. You saved me $200 by not having to get a Fisher & Paykel service person. I bought a replacement locking mechanism on ebay for $40 and using your instructions I fixed my washing machine myself with ease. Thank you so much champ!

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I wood suggest the Lid Lock solenoid has gone high resistance - should be 60 ohms

the crxp internal 2 wire plug and socket can / will corrode out

its within the lid lock mechanism - carefully solder the two wires

& heatshrink them both up ( & have seen small screw terminal blocks used )

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I think there is no feedback from the Lidlock assy - it behaves same Lid removed or open - or shut - but it knows the loop resistance or current that a normal one is likely to draw or behave like ( and if its un-plugged )

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THanks that was useful, when I got to the lock mechanisim I found the tongue (plastic of course) had broken off, so removed the mechanisim from the solenoid and electrics (just three little lock clips) and will get a new one Monday, hopefully that is the problem.]

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