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Hello! I have a potential customer with a shattered screen on her Galaxy Tab A 9.7". I cannot find anything that shows how the screen comes off. Have any of you repaired a shattered screen on this model? Is it the same as another Galaxy tablet model? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.
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I just took one apart today. Getting the back off was the standard affair for Samsung tablets- run a spudger or plectrum all around the edges.
However, the model I am repairing, the SM-P550, has a bit of a problem. The digitizer is sealed to the LCD in the same manner as a phone screen.
Got the screen out intact, but now will have the arduous task of trying to separate the layers without ruining the LCD.
So, if you are looking to repair one of these, don't! The cost to get a whole assembly is $200 and not worth the price.
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where did you get the screen from? I am also trying to find the cable that controls the back and menu button.
I got my Digitizer for Tab A 8.0 from a place on Ebay. Part was good, worked great
I got it from this place on Ebay name is, dvdsuper999, he has a bunch of parts
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I'll try to take some pics in the next day or two.
Heat will be needed- I did the sides and bottom first and then discovered the LCD fused (9.7" model) when I started lifting it. There was also light adhesive along the sides under the LCD, so don't pry too hard.
The model I have has 1 connector for digitizer and 2 for the LCD which has the standard Samsung pop connector and a swing up zif connector.
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can you post where you bought the replacement part?
I already did. read up
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Did you ever get an answer to this question or find a good guide?
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same here... apparently the tablet from !&&* to repair.. one guy quoted me 400 dollars
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Sorry for the late reply, one of these landed on my desk today, I'll post back tomorrow when the screen arrives, and I'll let you know how it goes!
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It's an identical repair to a Tab 3 & 4. ridiculous amount of glue, very strong clips holding the back case on.
Nothing weird or new in the process. Sorry It was a rush job and I didn't stop to take pics
where did you get the screen from? the one I ordered is not like the one I have to repair. I also need to find the flex cable that is next to the home button.
I got mine from Tanstartrade in Canada
but they don't carry the button flex
http://tanstartrade.ca/index.php?main_pa...
did you try tmart.com or parts4repair.com
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The one I did was the Canadian/American model and was fairly easy to remove the digitizer alone
If Samsung and apple both start doing sealed units these units are going to be worthless after a screen break.
The iPad air 2 for me to repair total all in out to the customer is $400 CAD.
Tough to justify a repair that's well over half the cost of the device at any age.
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I just bought a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0 Tablet for real cheap with a broken screen. I got a new Digitizer and took off the back of tablet. How did you remove the digitizer? Did you use a heat gun? Was it fused to the LCD? Any teardowns or pics of anything you have that I can look at? Thanks.
yes I used a 400deg heat gun on the lowest setting. go very slowly and use guitar pics/ suction cup to get between digi and frame.
ALWAYS point the heat gun away from the LCD. to much heat on the lcd will cause scarring/ bleeding and will ruin your day.
What adhesive did you use to reattach the new screen?
I know this is an old thread but can anyone tell me if the difference from sm-p350 and sm-t350 screen module? Is there a different connector for the active screen or do they both use the same hardware? The reason for asking is I am trying to see if I'm able to mod a smt350 to use an s pen because if the hardware is identical I may have a chance at doing this.
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@grungbuk the difference is in the sensitivity of the digitizer The sm-p has a more precise touch sensitive screen than the sm-t
@grungbuk The difference is not only the connectors but also the shape of the back of the LCD assembly. The T350 has the two pop connectors for digitizer and LCD and is a perfect rectangle. The P350 has a third connector which is a ZIF and has a 'hump' at the top of the LCD where the connector is. No way to use an S-pen on the version without due to that and differences in the mainboard.
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I've done one yesterday, it's the same way as a tab 3 & 4.
Remove the back cover. (difficult because of the hard clips)
Disconnect the top digitizer cable.
Heat the front around the edges, and use a suctioncup with guitarpicks.
Lift of the screen, clean the whole %#*@ thing an stick a new digitizer to the frame.
Connect the digitizer cable.
Click the backcover back in place. ( I had to use a ridicoulus amound of force to make it click)
The digitizer and lcd are not fused together.
It was a model in Holland.
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Hello Martijn, did the same job yesterday (based on youtube vid) on a 9,7"tab A. For some reason the touchscreen is now too sensitive, practically useless. Did I do something wrong here, or is there a way to calibrate the touch screen? Thanx, Rinus (Holland ;-) )
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