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Repair information and troubleshooting for Craftsman-brand riding lawnmowers.

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Clutch /brake pedal adjustment LT2000

Need info on my LT2000 Craftsman riding mower. On adjusting the brake/clutch pedal. The tractor will not stop any longer when you push the pedal all the way. It also is having trouble on hills like the belt that drives it is slipping and needs to also be adjusted, or does one adjustment take care of both, Any help greatly appreciated.

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Puan 7

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I think the clutch and brake are both adjusted at the same point, at the rear brake assembly. There are some belt adjustments, but I'm not sure they apply for this.

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when i let out the clutch i get a grinding sound, i do have brakes

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Brake pads may be worn-out. Look at the transaxle diagram on Sears partsDirect.com for your model. The brake cable spring should be compressed to 1 1/2" (at rest) to be properly adjusted.

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I have the same exact problem, My cable spring is compressed to 1 1/2" (at rest) and it still won't stop when I push the brake, my brake pads are good.

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Everytime I put it in gear and hold the brake down it moves. Can this problem be the drive belt?

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@anth30 no. the belts do what they are supposed to. Move your mower. your brakes are not doing what they are supposed to which is stoping your mower.

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I removed my deck, treated it with POR15, replaced spindles,pulleys, belts and blades. When I remounted it, it does as stated above. In gear, it moves. Brake/clutch pedal has little or no effect. Shifter won’t come out of gear. Had to shut it down. help, please and thank you.

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My mower powered down with brakes applied does not move. When it is running, will not stop. Looks to be an adjustment that can be made to the clutch assembly, before the brake assembly, but have yet to adjust it any.

Link posted below with a diagram, Ill attempt this at a later time.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/108750...

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There are two small 1/4” pins inside the “caliper” they get rusted up. Jack up the rear of mower between rear tires. Remove the right rear wheel to access the brakes, you may need to use a heat gun to get the dust cup off to remove the washers and clip. Remove the washer and cotter pin from the brake line. Remove the two outer bolts (on either side of the caliper) and slide /remove the caliper from the mower. Place the brake pad and backing plate off to the side. On a workbench remove the spring, and center nut — then slide the washer and armature off the caliper. Clean dirt, grass, and goop off the caliper with brake cleaner. Soak pins with penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Use a hammer and tap the pins with a scrap/spare bolt, and gently work the pins back and forth until you free them from the caliper. They will be rusted up. Use steel wool, penetrating oil and some 500 grit sandpaper to clean the pins and the inner holes on the caliper. Clean the entire unit. Then apply a generous brushing of anti-seize compound onto each pin, and tap them with the bolt and hammer back into the holes. Reassemble center armature and put spring back on. Put the backing plate and brake shoe back into place and reattach to the mower. It should work as it did beforehand. You can also replace the brake shoe before putting back on. It took me about an hour to do this myself.

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