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Repair and additional information for the GE Profile Refrigerator PFE28RSH, a bottom-mounted freezer refrigerator with French Door access, introduced in 2014, and equipped with an automatic ice maker. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern PFE28RSH****.

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GE Profile Bottom Freezer Cool, Top Refrigerator NOT!

I have a PFE28RSHCSS GE Profile French Door Refrigerator.

I am having an issue with the top part intermittently not cooling. I would say that 80-90% of the time it is cooling properly.

Occasionally, I will open the top and it will not be cool and there will be condensation on pretty much everything. If I reset the cooling unit in the settings or unplug the refrigerator, it kicks back on and cools properly. It occasionally requires me to do this twice.

The freezer part has never had a single issue and is cooling properly at all times.

I've read through a few other posts and it SEEMS like it would be the Fresh Food Evaporator Fan, part 716 here:

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/p...

But, I am not totally certain given that it works most of the time. Is there a way to test this further to ensure that it is the evaporator fan?

Is it likely that it would be something else, or is it a very good chance it is this fan?

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I have ge double door refrigerator that is stay on -9 freezer and the refrigerator part is like 45 what is wrong with it

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Ladybug-look inside the freezer at the back wall. Do you see ice orfrist anywhere? Do you hear a freezer fan running? You don’t have airflow from freezer to fresh food section. Either the freeer fan isn’t running or there’s ice built up restricting air flow.

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Josh Brasel- I really doubt it is the evap fan. You would get an error code and you would not have the condensation. It goes into a defrost 3-5 times a day, depending on your unit. That last for 20-30 min. You can hear a sizzle when the water hits the heater. Have you noticed that? You could be timing it just right and witnessing the unit in defrost. There is a defrost sensor and a temperature sensor that could be failing. Although, they usually work or don't work. The main control board controls how long it is defrost. As far as testing each component, that is difficult. Its done at the control board. Its complicated, temperature and ambient temperature need to be considered for each test. I would suggest keeping a log of the time of day, the temp of both freezer and fresh food sections, what noises you hear, any error codes, and don't unplug it or reset it. Let it do what it is doing. It might just be in defrost. Keep track of how long it stays in this mode.

This unit has a duel evaporator it has a 3 way valve on the compressor possible. This controls the flow of gas from one evap to the other. It is part of the sealed system and only a qualified HVAC EPA certified technician can do the repairs. You might call GE to find out how long your sealed system is covered. I hope this helps in some way. Good luck

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Where am I able to see the error codes? I assume there is a way to switch the fridge over to a debug mode.

I have had the fridge for about 5 years, so I know that something is currently wrong with it. The temperature in the fridge will get quite high and the amount of time that it lasts is well beyond 20-30 minutes.

I haven't actually measured it, but I am making a very educated guess that it is getting close to room temperature.

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Josh, the errors will be on the temp display. You’d notice them. If your not getting any errors and the temp is getting that warm and the freezer is fine I could only guess that the 3 way valve/spider valve isn’t opening to let Freon to the fresh food evaporator. An EPA certified refrigeration tech is needed to work on this.

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I did figure out what was wrong with it and had it fixed. It was the evaporator fan as I predicted. Problem free for 2+ years now.

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Oh, and if you are handy at all, do not be afraid of fixing it yourself. It is SIMPLE.

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Per your symptom there Is a high chance the fan I ls collapsed in ice and won't rotate . This is not going to give and error code because it's intermittent and mechanical rather Than signal error. The problem is the drain tubes are closed off with foreign debris. To repair the issue unplug the unit overnight this will serve as force defrost . The next remove the cover plate on the back of refrigerator ,now pull the drain tubes ,water should come out the drain holes, make sure to remove the foreign substance wash the tubes place them back , vacuum around the condenser are and . Plug in the refrigerator. The issue should be resolved.

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The interesting things is that (I live in the midwest) I have hardly seen the issue since the temperature warmed up outside, causing the ambient temperature in the house to be a little on the warmer side than what I keep the ambient temperature in the winter (76 in spring/summer vs 68/70 in fall/spring). Seems plausible. I will do the defrost idea soon! Thanks for the idea.

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