GE top load washer gtw485asj4ws
How do I bypass my lid lock? GE GTW485ASJ4WS. There was no option for GE products in the device selection. Please help!
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@wilkeyeverett the lid lock and switch are together in one part. It requires 120 VAC to activate the lock.
The approximate resistance of the lock coil is 70 ohm from Red – Violet from J512 board connector.
Checking between Red and Yellow wire at the same board connector will show the continuity of the lid switch.
Update 08/15/2018
placing a jump between point 3 and 1 on J513would close the switch but looking at the schematic, you’d be running in trouble with it since the control board will continue to lock the lid. I’d replace it to avoid errors originating from the control board.
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What would be the most sufficient way to jump the connector harness? I'm wanting to jump the connector and bypass the lid lock mechanism altogether. Is this possible?
Just rescently have this problem, I did replaced the switch and the problem persisted, now I am bypassing both the Lid Closed and Lid Lock mechanism (two separate jumpers) and the machine does the job. Trick is that you have to be on top of the operation because the Lid Lock Jumper it does needs to be removed and placed back during cycles, all of this is done at the switch connector, indicating that Harness and Control Board do work as they should but some how the switch does not recognized the operation (I've replaced twice and returned twice to provider), it does recognize the "Closed" but does not "Lock".
All of this has been good fodder for thought, however, I need this washer up and running. And The Truth is that your last answer didn't help with the jumpers. Can you please tell me where to place the jumpers on the lid closed/locked switch connector at the end of the harness?
This is exactly what I need to know. I figured out to close the circuit from pink and yellow but It won't go into a cycle. I think the purple wire needs to be bypassed so I can trick the control panel. I was hoping the guy above to tell us exactly what to put where when.
Has anyone taken the relay out of the housing and tried locking the switch on the bottom of the relay itself in the on position? Their is a small sliding pin that hits this switch when the lid is closed but mine broke off when someone forcefully opened the lid while the washer was running.
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See if this will work:
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Your youtube video is a magnetic switch, the one in question is a mechanical locking switch, totally wrong aswer
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after reverse engineering the washers system with my oscilloscope the %#*@ eggheads exposed their hand . They could of made it alot harder . People are being lied to by tech support. They !#^&@@ the wrong central processor engineer with all the time in the world on his hands …Using 74LS family Ive been making a device i call a Universal Digital Digital Emulator … aka black box! I designed a digital logic controller using a entirely home made EEprom RAM, ROM , MAR module with a 16 bite 4bit memory array that makes me able to save different bypass programs for other appliances. The MAR summons a 4bit opp code from the array based on the address (controlled by small dip switches . The 4bit op codes go to the EEPROM RAM control logic that is multiplexed to be my control signals to drive a complex relay module features interchangeable solid state relay system coming in and out to emulate and trick any of these worthlessly engineered safeties.
next is a nano computer MCU to replace EEproms
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How does that fix the problem on hand ..?
According to the Service Manual after check the Harness, The continuity and ohms at the board all of them are functional so the next step is UPDATE SOFTWARE ...
Them eggheads are trying to charge $99 to come to me and $75 to update the software plus taxes @ $190.. outrageous...
I am not as technical or knowledgeable in the information that's been provided all I want to know is how the !&&* do I bypass the lid lock so that my washer will finish washing drain and spin
