You need to repair the PCB as the calibration (and defect map) are unique to this drive, and DO NOT carry to others without problems. You can do the equivalent of a "repair" if it's really that broken (for recovery, NOT continued use) by moving all of the major ICs which are known to hold the data needed to run, and copying it to another hard drive. However, you can usually put pressure on the cable to get the data off in most cases.
Unless the data is replaceable on these WDs you’re better off repairing the old one for recovery and building a drive that doesn’t integrate the part that *always* fails (or a unique encryption key only WD PCBs have) and taking this as a hard lesson on why integrated externals are bad news. You don’t want the drive bridge controlling data access or having to resort to soldering a new port on a drive that would normally be a quick fix with a backup drive just in case it breaks and you need to replace the enclosure to recover the data and get the drive going again.
With a NORMAL drive, the actual drive itself is usually fine and the PCB is dead so all you need to do is transfer the drive from the dead enclosure to a new one. This is why I’ve largely moved to custom M.2 externals - if the enclosure fries, NBD since I can buy a new one and make sure the drive works.
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