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Released April 2010 / 2.4, 2.53 GHz Core i5 or 2.66 GHz Core i7 Processors

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Backlight not working is my LVDS connector broken? (SMD close up pic)

The Macbook (A1286, logicboard: 820-2850A) works fine with HDMI and there is image on screen (flashlight behind apple logo shows panel works) but no backlight.

I am not very experienced with macbook repair, but have done SMD soldering before, i have watched a lot of louis rossmann videos on the topic.

Looks like water damage on the board. I have checked the backlight fuse (F9800) and resistors (R9808/R9809) of the voltage divider for the backlight circuit which are all dead. The LVDS connector apparently can sometimes be shorted to ground (according to louis rossmann training guide + videos).

My LVDS connector looks pretty bad (see picture), will i have to replace the whole cable which attaches to the screen or replace the whole screen which comes with a cable? For safety should i also replace and solder a new LVDS connector on the logic board?

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Yes, you’ll need to replace the cable and you likely need a new connector on the logic board.

As far as the logic board image, I would reflow the joints and then test things again. May need new parts as well.

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Thank you, is there anyway I check if the backlight actually works by manually hooking it up to a power supply? Could the backlight have gotten too much voltage and died? I don’t know whether to replace just the LVDS cable and connector (~20 Euro) OR the connector and get a new (used) screen which comes with a working cable (~50 euro). I don’t want to buy a cable if it turns out the actual backlight is broken, is there a way to check for that? I hope it makes sense what I’m saying. Thanks!

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@fw95 - You would need to get the schematics and boardview drawings to trace out the logic and using a DVM check the voltages of the logic board. To troubleshoot the backlight within the display you would need to check the continuity of the ribbon cable its self and inspect the displays LVDS connector. As well as check the resistance of the LED's them selves at the display connector.

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Thanks, I think I’m going to replace the whole screen with an lvds cable in place and spare myself having to solder that seeing as a used working screen can be had for 45 euros v.s. just cable for 20 + glue and more work, I’ll still have to at least fix the fuse and resistors and lvds 40 pin socket... got my work cut out as it is :P

Thank you all!

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