Eşyalarını Tamir Et Topluluk Mağaza

9th generation Honda compact car.

20 Soru Tümünü görüntüle

Seçenekler

Car "Jerks" while accelerating

I've been noticing this pretty much ever since I bought the car. When I accelerate moderately from a stop or slow speed (5 to 10 km/h), I can feel the car jerk fairly harshly - enough to throw you forward in your seat. Right before RPMS start to get around 2500 - 3000. This doesn't happen if I accelerate slowly, if I'm already moving at a decent speed and I floor it, or when I'm decelerating. Only when I accelerate from a stop or very slow speed. I have a 2014 Civic Coupe with the 1.8 and the CVT

I've changed the CVT fluid with an OEM equivalent replacement from partsource, and it seems to have mostly gone away for the first ~50km, but not long after that, it's back as if I haven't done anything. I've put around 1,500km on the car since I've changed the fluid and it feels as if I haven't done anything now

My car has 143,000km, and since I bought it used, I have no idea when the fluid was last changed. I asked the previous owner and they didn't remember getting it done.

What can I do to solve or improve the issue? It's quite frustrating and uncomfortable for everyone in the vehicle.

Thanks everyone :)

Yanıtlandı! Cevabı görüntüle Ben de bu sorunu yaşıyorum

Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Evet Hayır
Puan 1
2 Yorum

The questions to ask are; is this a cvt or engine problem? I would search Honda forums for members that may have experience and answers. Continuously variable xmissions can be problematic with completely different issues unrelated to standard electronically controlled xmissions. Xmission specialists familiar with CVTs may only exist in dealer departments with fewer in xmission repair shops. Engine problems are relatively easier to diagnose and troubleshoot compared to cvt problems.

tarafından

Well I'm pretty sure its a transmission issue, as it went away completely for a bit after a fluid change

tarafından

Yorum Ekle

2 Cevap

Filtre ölçütü:
En Faydalı En Yeni En eski
Seçilen Çözüm

Seçenekler

For anyone that needs the answer, it actually ended up being a vacuum leak. The clean air intake hose had a big crack in it, which wasn't visible until I started messing with it. If you're having a similar issue, start there.

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Evet Hayır
Puan 7

5 Yorum:

Glad you found the solution and sharing it to close this thread.

tarafından

Ik this is an old thread but I have the same problem there was a big tear in the clean air intake. Immediately after putting the new boot on, I have excessive pressure in my crankcase, I replaced the pcv valve and cleaned the hose that goes back to the intake but I still have excessive pressure. The compression test was fine so far but I don’t want to blow my rings. Any ideas lol?

tarafından

did you ever find this issue. i cleaned the throttle body and replaced hoses still getting bad jolt at 1800 rpms

tarafından

Old threads die hard. Checked for all types of visible leaks - found none. One electrical diagnostic specialist said there was a problem with the ECM.

Vacuum tests (not compression) shows a slight (15%) reduction in cylinder 2 in comparison to remaining cylinders 1, 3 & 4. An engine specialist friend said the issue maybe due to a combination of 2 factors - the CAT converter failure (no CEL yet) plus cylinder 2 vacuum issue. We cut open the CAT, and truly 60% of the CATs engine exhaust port side face was damaged causing blockage. Minor changes in exhaust-flow blockage within CAT can send erratic voltage to ECM, which in turn sends erratic signals to the EGR valve, fuel injectors/everything. Thus EGR valve opens/closes erratically within the 1500-1800 rpm range, which could explain bad jolts in this range (during acceleration). Cannot afford a new CAT now. So, I'm trying to modify the air intake resonator to absorb some back pressure on non-exhaust side i.e. on air intake side. Initial results are promising.

tarafından

The modification of the intake resonator did not yield the desired results; jerking continues; have ordered a new low-priced ($45) after-market EGR valve from AULINK on amazon; if the jerking goes away for 1 week (300 miles), then an OE Honda EGR valve part # 18011-RBJ-000 will be ordered for $253 on Amazon. If the jerking continues with the new after-market AULINK EGR unit, then have to replace the CAT.

tarafından

Yorum Ekle

Seçenekler

does this car have individual coil packs for each cylinder that is what fires your plugs is your engine light on if not buy a cheap analyzer see what it says if you have multiple coils and one bad one it will make your tranny run eratic

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Evet Hayır
Puan 0
Yorum Ekle

Yanıtını ekle

Ethan Leroux sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
İstatistikleri Görüntüle:

Son 24 Saat: 21

Son 7 gün: 126

Son 30 gün: 486

Her zaman: 19,847