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My Steam Deck fell down, from 80cm onto carpet but it was enough to destroy both R1 and L1 Shoulder Buttons. They snapped right from the daughter board, ripping the traces. No way to solder them back on.
Now I need a new left and right daughter Board but this part seems not to be sold as replacement. Since it was the first to break from a little drop, I imagine more people would need this soon.
Bu iyi bir soru mu?
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if you are comfortable with a soldering iron i had the same issue and i used these buttons for a DS to fix. worked just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJLY5TR?psc...
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He said that the pads have been ripped from the board. He'd have to rebuild the traces and somehow remake some mounting pads to do this and that's a lot to ask, even for someone experienced in smd rework.
ah didnt see that yep RMA good luck will probably take like a month. maybe find a part on ebay if you dont want to wait. for me the button just broke and the legs were still attached to the solder pad to just removed them and put a new button in place.
Do you need a soldering hot gun to remove the button? Possible to unsolder the existing button using soldering gun only?
Thanks in advance
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The answer to this being posted is: "At this time, we are unable to offer these parts, as they both require software calibration (typically done at the factory) that is not available to end users at this time. We are working with Valve to offer these products as soon as we are able to, but we are unable to provide an ETA at this time."
That is the email I got back from iFixit when trying to get a replacement one myself. I managed to bork the chip on the other side of my 'R' daughter board when reinstalling my factory sticks when the GuliKit ones I got were crap. This causes it to get excessively hot right where that BGA/Legged chip is on that board, especially in comparison to the 'L' board which seems to be fine. And it knocked out ALL controls to my Deck. The system no longer registers any controller and the touchpads vibrate as they would before but no input is registered in game mode nor desktop mode. Under 'Controls' it says "No controllers detected." This is a BIG bummer because now I have no choice to but to RMA and pay for the labour costs on top of the part cost to replace that board. I've done tons of repairs on computers and consoles. Heck, I'd be able to replace the chip on that daughter board if I could find it and knew it was the right one, but it appears it might be programmed in a way that only the deck understands and I don't have a programmer nor a means to obtain the software on that chip. I'm at the mercy of RMAing with Valve. And when the fan in my deck started rattling I ordered a replacement and replaced it instead of sending it in because I didn't want to go 2 weeks without the Deck, now I don't have a choice, regardless of my own abilities. So I feel ya man, but your best bet is to RMA.
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So much for "we designed Steam Deck to be repairable" when one of the most common faulty parts is more than a year later still unavailable. Shame.
https://store.steampowered.com/news/app/...
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Exactly. I've said the same thing before. I don't get why they advertised that and then provide literally nothing. My left daughter board broke as well, but thankfully valve had me send it in and repaired it for free.
Still Waiting on this.
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lol another "calibration" bullshit answer guess i have a modded deck ewaste... thanks valve....
never buying anything valve hardware related, anti repair bullshit all over again...
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Well, I just had a daughter board defekt (self-inflicted) valve repaired my SD for free. So, that's nice
I had the opposite experience. Valve wants to charge $150+ for the repair... The traces ripped off the board so I can't swap out the switch, which I had planned on doing.
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Here I am in 2024 with the same question and no answer...
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It's still not being sold and never will be sold, but maybe valve can repair it.
At least they fixed this stupid placement with the Steam Deck OLED.
Ur fecked its e waste except if you want te learn to solder a new button or rma it to steam and throw a dice of paying the right amount or a full new steamdeck amount.
Youll own nothing and be happy
David,
The problem I have is being quoted $125-185 for a repair when they will just give some refurb back that who knows how well is holding up. They will then sell my Deck for $360 and effectively make $500 of using cheap, prone to breaking, materials. Makes you wonder why we can't buy a $20 replacement part and fix it ourselves.
It sickens me that people talk about "good guy Valve, these refurbs are such a great deal" when they are just screwing folks over.
So, I'd at least like to say that when I sent in my Steam Deck, I actually got my steam deck back. I guess it really does depend on the damage, but I marked my Steam Deck on certain parts that shouldn't have been replaced to see if I got the same Steam Deck back.
All of the marks were there. So this is indeed the same Steam Deck I sent in. I'm not saying this as a way to ignore your pain point, it definitely sucks, but I'm glad it was the one I sent in for repair.
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It's really absurd that that's the only option we have at this point apart from a full RMA
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In case anyone is reading this in 2024: https://repair.wiki/w/Steam_Deck_-_Repla...
I the pads under the switches are ripped out, you can run a wire to the testing point as explained in the guide.
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Hi there! I accidentally dropped my Steam Deck on its side and the right shoulder button relay was shattered. My friend and I tried to solder on a new button using the suggested button, but there were a few complications with how that worked out... It worked momentarily, but I think the pressure I put on the button itself kept breaking the solder.
I eventually gave up and contacted their customer service, and got it fixed through United Radio. It took about 3 weeks, and $120 to get it fixed, which wasn't terrible if I'm being honest, but still. When I got the invoice back, they replaced both of my controller daughter boards, which leads me to believe that maybe the daughter boards have some kind of firmware on them that can lead to problems if not properly paired? It's unclear.
But this is the only way I could get this fixed. I wanted to let you folks know that at the moment, this is your best bet. Make sure to treat your electronics with respect. ><;;
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