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The Apple Magic Mouse is a multi-touch mouse manufactured and sold by Apple Inc. It was announced and sold for the first time on October 20, 2009.

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Any way to fix the battery contacts?

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When I went to try and turn on this Magic Mouse, the mouse did not turned on.

When I went to change the batteries, I found corrosion on the battery terminals. I changed the batteries anyway, and the mouse didn't work.

It also seems like the battery acid may have gotten inside the mouse, since this contact is not working correctly and does not spring back up. I was able to fix it a little bit and get it to spring up again, but it still sticks.

Is there any way to fix this? The mouse was $80 and it seems like I got lucky and caught it before it could get any worse then it already is. It seems like I caught this corrosion while I have time to clean it and get the mouse working again.

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Your best bet is to get a new mouse or try and clean the contacts off.

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I have the same problem,

I use Isopropyl alcohol to clean it and fine sand paper rub the battery contacts, leave it to totally dried. and it work fine.

Hope this help,

Piaky,

Thailand.

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I manage to clean off the thick rust from my mouse coil with 1. Dabbing Vinegar 2. Filing it off with a fingernail file 3. Lots of patience. It all paid off and mouse is working now! Hope this helps!

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I had corroded batteries in my Magic Mouse, I cleaned the battery contacts with white vinegar and it solved the problem, Magic Mouse now working perfectly

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YAY good to know Debbie !

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Hey May, I saw that since you replied here just 7h ago, I might get some advice from you, one of my wireless mice has the same issue, rust on the mouse's battery contacts. So could you kindly suggest what I can do to remove the rust with some common household items? Because I don't exactly have isopropyl alcohol and that sort of stuff. I do have the regular (white) vinegar, and some nail files. So how should I proceed? Thanks in advance!

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I can't even get the batteries out. Help!

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This is why we don't use alkaline batteries in expensive (or any) equipment. (They're death in pricey aluminum flashlights. Ask me how I know) They're much more likely to leak than are NiMH. There's a capital cost to moving to MiMH, about $25 for a good charger. But then you can buy envelops and use them for 10 years (and counting -- I started in 2012 and none are bad yet).

They have even greater advantages in high-current applications.

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I just created a guide explaining how to fix this problem. Please check it out to see if it helps.

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Nice work @gordonhamachi! Looks like a well done guide that should help a lot of people. Thanks for doing that.

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