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Onarım Topluluğuna Katılın - Hesap Oluşturun

Gıda soğutma cihazları için kapsamlı onarım ve sökme kılavuzlarını keşfedin. Bu, buzdolapları, buzdolabı-dondurucular ve diğer soğutma üniteleri ile ilgili sorunları gidermek ve tamir etmek için başvuracağınız çözümdür. İster yaygın sorunlarla uğraşıyor olun ister belirli modeller için adım adım talimatlar arıyor olun, ayrıntılı kılavuzlarımız cihazlarınızın verimli çalışmasını sağlamak için ihtiyacınız olan her şeyi kapsar. Hem DIY (kendin yap) meraklıları hem de profesyonel onarım teknisyenleri için mükemmeldir.

Fridge no longer cools

Quick Summary

Full summary of my debugging (LLM)

The fridge/freezer stopped cooling. Before complete failure, it started repeatedly making a clicking sound instead of the normal compressor-running sound. After being left like this overnight, the compressor became extremely hot. After unplugging and cooling it down, repeated test starts gave:

power on → absolutely no compressor hum/vibration/movement → after a while, click from the starter/overload area

The compressor never visibly/audibly starts.

Compressor / start components identified

Compressor:

  • GMCC SZ59C1H
  • 220–240 V, 50 Hz
  • R600a refrigerant
  • RSIR-type compressor

Starter components:

  • QP2-15 PTC start device
  • DRB12T61A1 / HM V120-2 thermal overload protector

The DRB overload makes a metallic rattling/jingling sound when shaken. Since it contains a mechanical/bimetal mechanism, this is not necessarily abnormal. The QP2-15 itself does not rattle.

Multimeter tests performed

All measurements were made with the fridge unplugged and the components cooled for several hours.

QP2-15 PTC starter

  • Cold resistance: ~12.3 Ω
  • This is plausible for a nominal 15 Ω PTC starter.
  • It is therefore not obviously open-circuit or completely failed, although this does not prove it behaves correctly under load.

DRB12T61A1 overload

  • Cold resistance across its contacts: ~2.3 Ω
  • It has continuity and is closed when cold.
  • Therefore it is not stuck open.

Compressor windings
Resistance between the three compressor terminals:

  • Pair 1: 17 Ω
  • Pair 2: 40 Ω
  • Pair 3: 57 Ω

This is internally very consistent because:

17 Ω + 40 Ω = 57 Ω

That is exactly the relationship expected from the run and start windings sharing a common terminal. There is no obvious open winding or winding-to-winding short.

Compressor insulation / ground test
Each of the three compressor terminals was measured against a verified grounded metal/chassis point.

All three readings:

OL / no continuity

So there is no detectable winding-to-compressor-shell ground fault.

The ground/chassis reference point itself was checked against another exposed grounded metal point and measured about 0.2 Ω, confirming the reference was valid.

Current interpretation

So far, no obvious static electrical fault has been found.

The compressor windings look electrically intact, the overload closes when cold, and the PTC starter has a plausible cold resistance.

The main remaining possibilities are:

  1. The QP2-15 start device fails dynamically under load, despite measuring normally when cold.
  2. The compressor is mechanically locked/seized internally, while its electrical windings remain healthy.
  3. Less likely: another wiring/control/power-delivery issue upstream.

The notable symptom is that during a restart attempt there is absolutely no hum or vibration from the compressor, followed by a click from the starter/overload enclosure. However, when allowed to repeatedly attempt starting overnight, the compressor became extremely hot.

Planned next step

Rather than continue debugging live mains wiring, the likely next step is to try known-good replacement start components:

  • QP2-15 / Midea 12031000001062
  • DRB12T61A1 / Midea 12031000001346

If a correct replacement starter/overload produces exactly the same silent → click → no start behaviour, then a mechanically failed/locked compressor becomes much more likely.

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1 Yorum:

Hi @kaivanmaurik

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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  1. First of all well done with all the details - very few iFixers bother which makes offering suggestions difficult.
  2. A few thoughts - if you haven't already investigated and eliminated the suggestions below.
  3. My experience is with older non-digital refrigerators.
  4. You don't specifically mention if your refrigerator is a double door or two door (freezer on top fridge at the bottom). I assume the latter in that both stopped cooling/freezing.
  5. Older dual setups commonly had twin compressors while modern ones only one feeding both compartments if a two door which I assume is your model.
  6. The clicking sound most likely comes from the 'clickson'. This is the compressor relay that switches the compressor on/of dependant on the the set temperature.
  7. The temperature in a non-digital refrigerator influences a mechanical thermostat that closes/opens the mains supply to the compressor relay. These thermostats use a gas filled thin metallic tube connected to a metal diaphragm. The gas expands/contracts in proportion to the temp thus mechanically opening/closing the thermostat contacts that supply the compressor relay. (Digital thermostats do the same but have no moving mechanical parts - the contacts usually as an SCR, transistor or IC switching circuit). [Can be tested out of circuit]
  8. If the mechanical thermostat is faulty (gas leak, corroded contacts, etc) and stuck in the 'open' position, then no power, no compression, no cooling. If yours has such a thermostat and you can remove it, it can be tested for switching with a multimeter by alternately heating and cooling the bulb end. The electrical contact points wiring diagram and part number are often on the thermostat enclosure itself. (Just make a note of which lugs go onto which pins if it is faulty and you want to replace it.)
  9. Another cause could be a compressor gas leak. Too little gas: no cooling and/or excessive compressor heat. (Can only be leak detected/refilled and re-sealed with specialised equipment).
  10. PS: When working normally, fridge compressors get quite hot (not just warm) to the touch and usually have a shallow pan on top where fridge drainage water is routed to to allow it to evaporate due to the compressor heat.
  11. A final suggestion. If only the mechanical thermostat is found to be the cause, think of replacing with a cheap (available online) digital adjustable thermostat which has a digital temp readout).

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Kai van Maurik sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
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