Giriş
Upgrade your hard drive for more storage capacity.
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Power down your Mac mini, disconnect all of the cables, and flip it over.
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Insert the Jimmy into the crack between the aluminum top housing and the plastic lower housing.
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The Jimmy should reach a stop about 3/8" down.
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Gently bend the Jimmy outwards to pry the crack open a little larger and lift the lower housing up a small amount.
Patience is your best friend.
Do not insert “jimmy in too far. Marking a line from tip upwards on the tool will prevent too far insertion, possibly breaking tabs or damaging internal components.
To prevent the cover closing back up, small strips of matchbook cover (os equivalent) can be inserted about half inch hold prevent closure.
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Flip the Mac mini back over and lift the top housing off of the lower housing.
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Slightly squeeze the two retaining arms toward each other and lift the AirPort antenna off its post.
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Use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the left side of the ZIF cable lock up from its socket.
Good catch of the incomplete unlocking instructions. ;P
Hmmm... what if I didn't read this before and I removed the cable and the lock sort of broke?... what would happen... would I experience problems? I can still put the cable back in place and push the lock back down with the spudger.
Same. I totally removed the lock , the edges are busted and won't stay in place, How can I get the cable to stay? what's the fix?
Suzanne -
Dan O & Suzanne, hold the cable in the socket and put a dab of hot glue on both sides, It's non-conductive and should hold...worked for me.
does any one know, where to get the connector from zhe ZIF Cable?
someone, that preowned my mac broke the holder!
Julian, did you ever find where to get a replacement lock for the Zip Cable. Mine is also broken..
Suzanne -
This is not my first memory replacement in a Mini and I got over-confident and stupidly fully removed the audio cable ZIF lock and assumed I had broken something. But, now that I have read this guide more carefully, I am not sure. I sure would love to hear some detailed instructions for putting a ZIF lock back on.
Is it possible that I have removed it without having broken it? If I have broken it, do I have to buy a new cable? Just a new ZIF lock? A new audio board? This is a 2.0 GHz A1176.
Thanks!
Michael, Mine seems to be broken. I bought & tried the Kapton Tape that was suggested & still no sound.
Suzanne -
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Lift the audio board ribbon cable up out of its socket.
As an option to avoid potential damage when disconnecting the cable from the ZIF socket and clip, it is possible to unscrew the audio board and remove it along with the internal frame.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the hard drive thermal sensor cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
I've had to remove a few of these connectors on iBooks and other small Apple devices ... I've found that, with careful and gentle pressure (working first one side and then the other) using a small flat-headed jeweller's screwdriver is best.
I agree Mike.
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Remove the Phillips screw from the internal frame near the Bluetooth antenna.
Before removing any of these screws, there is another step needed which is not here:
On the front of the optical drive, right side as you look at the slot-load, is a small blue board attached by a single black screw. This needs to be removed before the optical drive can be taken out.
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Remove the Phillips screw near the audio ports securing the internal frame to the bottom case.
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Gently lift the internal frame up from the bottom housing, minding the AirPort antenna and any other cables that may get caught.
At this point be careful that you don't pull out the Airport antenna ... but if you do, just check that it is back before re-assembling.
During re-assembly, the internal frame has to go in at an angle ... the back of the optical drive goes in first.
This means that you can seat the fan cover correctly, but more importantly, there is an interconnect board on the back of the optical drive that must be firmly pushed back into its housing on the logic board.
If, like me, you pull the wire on the airport antenna free, it snaps back into place easily. The connector is on the extra card screwed to the motherboard that looks like it has a phone battery embedded in it. The connector is at the top of the 'battery'. This accessory card is the wifi card, so it makes sense that the antenna plugs onto this.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the side of the hard drive to the internal frame.
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Maneuver the hard drive out of the internal frame.
excellent instructions of how to remove hard drive
Well, only 5 screws left over! Time to see if it works… (I had to start with your step 12; I’ve put this job off for too long! Wish me luck.
Thanks for the encouragement, and the moral support.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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17 Yorum
I seemed to succeed - until I discovered my optical drive had broken. Disks do not mount, after some tries they eject. There was a LOT of dust inside my Mini, I think some got in the optical drive. A cleaning DVD and compressed gas didn't fix it. I wonder if it would be wise to seal the opening to the optical drive -- certainly before cleaning.
This was a failure for me, even though the memory and drive change went well.
Can't fault this guide.
* if you don't have a putty knife & you don't mind some scratches, a thin butter knife will do the trick for getting the case off.
*if you plan to replace hdd with an ssd - you may need to rejig some of the internal wires that run around the edges of the hdd/ssd: after I installed the ssd, and returned the wires to the tight track around the side and socket port end of the ssd, and turned the machine back on, there was a high pitch interference noises coming out the internal speaker every time the drive was active.
The solution: make sure the speaker wire isn't where it's *supposed* to be! There are three sets of wires, include the speaker pair. I reversed the positioning of these with respect to the SSD, i.e. I moved the speaker pair to be furthest away from the SSD, and *didn't* tuck them back in under the plastic lip beside the ssd connector port. I turned it back on, and no more high frequency whining whenever the drive is active
I upgraded my 2007 A1176 Mac Mini with a 2 TB M9T drive that I broke out of Seagate Backup Plus Ext. HD and increased my RAM from 2 GB to 3 GB! Success!
Be very careful with the audio cable removal the ZIF cable lock is VERY DELICATE!!!
Love you guys! My old Mac Mini mid-2007 (2.0 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo) was successfully upgraded with 240 GB Solid-State SATA hard drive as well as 3 GB of 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM. The process took 30 minutes for both hard drive & RAM upgrade. It was easier than I anticipated. The Solid-State drive is superb making things runs so smoothly & quietly. Be careful with the delicate cables while upgrading. Follow the instructions step-by-step (I read 5 times & also watched the upgrade videos). And TAKE YOUR TIME. Funny, that the OS X install took longer than the upgrade (close to 1-1/2 hours). My next steps would be to replace the Airport card to 802.11 N and perhaps the Intel CPU to 2.3 Ghz. Thanks again!
be careful removing the ZIF CABLE LOCK... I did not expect it to be so frail and broke it even though being very careful since this is first time trying to upgrade the hard drive. having a very hard time trying to find a replacement online.
Je ne vois pas comment remplacer le disque par un SSD ! Démonter le disque, OK ! Mais le remplacement ? (Fixation, câblage, etc... ?)
Les SSD de 2.5" ont exactement les mêmes dimensions que les disques durs. Choisissez-les plutôt quel les SSD sous forme de barrette.
eric -
En aucun cas je ne vois comment installer le SSD (fixation, etc...)
mad props to you folks for the written and video presentation. appreciate the help.
As far as I can tell, I followed this guide correctly, but my poor Mini was so old that the plastic around the base was extremely brittle, and a number of pieces broke off as I opened the case. Everything inside still seemed ok, and the metal parts of the case still fit together fine, but having replaced the hard disk… it won’t turn on. At all. No chime, no action. I can’t see anything that looks to be dislodged or disconnected (apart from the bits of plastic grille that broke away), but it seems to be completely dead.
I has a sad Mac. :(
False alarm! I unplugged the power supply, left it for a few minutes, then came back and plugged everything in… and away we go! Now to dig up my Lion install DVD... which, because the internal superdrive isn’t working any more, I’ll have to install using a USB DVD drive. With USB 1.1. Because that’s how we rolled in 2009.
Hi, I followed the above steps and switched on. Things looked ok but when I went to install os the new HDD was nowhere to be found on disk utility. Tried putting old one back and same problem……any ideas?
Thanks
No problems following this tutorial to disconnect the HD. Mine didn't have the T shaped foam and the spring in the antenna holder. Both may have been discarded by the Authorized Apple Service Provider in the two previous HD changes. What took me by surprise was that the HD slipped away from the socket as soon as I removed the screws. As if the socket didn't hold the HD firmly. Thanks for the clear photos and caution tips.
A spackle knife makes these steps go much faster.
jouniseppanen - Yanıt
A double sided letter opener or a thin non-serrated butter knife will suffice.
To prenent cosmetic blemishes, place a matchbook cover or similar thin cardboard on the outer perimeter under the “jimmy”.
Mike - Yanıt
Despite mentioning recommended tools at the top I think it’s really worthwhile making a point about narrow Philips screwdrivers at this point before people start putting the case apart.
Matt D - Yanıt