Giriş
This guide shows how to remove and replace the USB‑C port and headphone jack for your Meta Quest 2.
The procedure requires extensive disassembly of your headset. If your battery is worn, consider taking this opportunity to replace it—it's normally hard to reach but is easily accessible during this repair.
Note: You'll need a long PH00 bit or a dedicated PH00 screwdriver to remove some recessed screws.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Hold the power button for three seconds to fully turn off your headset.
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Grasp and pull on the nose section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.
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Use a Torx T2 driver to remove the six 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the eyepiece trim.
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Insert an opening pick into the seam between the eyepiece trim and white outer shell, near the nose cutout.
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Lift the eyepiece trim slightly and tilt it towards the top edge of the headset.
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Set the trim down on your work surface, making sure not to strain the cable.
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Use the point of a spudger to flip open the black lock tab on the ZIF connector securing the face sensor cable.
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Make sure the lens spacing matches the spacing indicator. This allows the indicator peg to sit correctly in its notch.
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If the lens spacing doesn't match the indicator, manually adjust the lens with your fingers.
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Thread your fingers through the eyepiece trim’s eyeholes and grasp the edges of the sensor cable.
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Slide the sensor cable into the socket until the first set of tabs rests in the socket. This should flip the lock tab down partially.
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Use a spudger to press the lock tab down towards the cable to lock it in place.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 7.7 mm‑long screws securing the front cover to the headset:
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One recessed in the top-left corner
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One recessed in the top-right corner
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Three along the lower edge
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Insert an opening pick into the seam between the bottom edge of the front cover and the headset.
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Pry with the opening pick to release the front cover clips.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the metal neck of the top-right antenna cable.
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Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
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Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cable bracket:
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One 4.4 mm‑long screw
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Two 2.3 mm‑long screws
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the motherboard.
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Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable near the fan assembly.
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Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
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Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the antenna assembly to the headset:
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Four 4.4 mm‑long screws
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Two 4.8 mm‑long screws
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Two 10.7 mm‑long screws
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Use tweezers to grab the fan connector and carefully slide it out of its socket.
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Use the point of an opening pick to loosen the adhesive securing the LED flex cable from the top of the fan assembly.
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Remove the two screws securing the fan assembly to the headset:
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One 4.4 mm‑long Phillips screw
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One 3.6 mm‑long Torx T2 screw
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.3 mm‑long screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
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Two speaker connectors
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Seven ZIF connectors
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Two press connectors
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One antenna connector
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Use tweezers to grip the left speaker cables at the base of their motherboard connector.
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Lift the connector gently straight up to disconnect it.
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Use tweezers to gently peel the black tape covering the two top flex cables.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable.
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Remove the five screws securing the motherboard to the headset:
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Four 3.8 mm‑long Phillips screws
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One 6 mm‑long 3.5 mm hex standoff screw
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Use your fingers or tweezers to peel and remove the two camera covers from the top cameras.
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Peel and remove the black tape covering the antenna cable.
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Grasp the screen and lens assembly with your fingers.
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Slowly lift and separate the assembly from the outer shell, taking care to reposition any cables that get in the way.
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Remove the screen and lens assembly.
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Three cables along the top edge—two flex cables and one LED flex cable
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Two cables in the top right corner—the battery connector and an antenna cable
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Two cables along the right edge—an antenna cable and a wide flex cable
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Two flex cables along the bottom edge
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Three cables along the left edge—one antenna cable, one flex cable, and one speaker cable
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Use tweezers or your fingers to guide the left speaker cable out of its two plastic clips.
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Clip this cable neatly into the guide clips to prevent it from getting pinched by the screen and lens assembly.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the left outer speaker bracket to the outer shell.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C port and headphone jack to the outer shell.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C port and headphone jack to its bracket.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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2 Yorum
thank you for the guide, I was able to change the charging port and is now working. unfortunately, the headset is not able to see the controllers. by any chance you know what might cause this?
thank youuu
Had this just happen to me too I can get a charge now but once i turn it on it boots up takes me to the lock screen then locks out the controllers and headtracking just to go to a black screen and stay there until i try and restart it again. I'm guessing it might be a bad connection on either the proximity sensor or the cameras but I'm not sure
