Straight forward replacement of the analog joystick on the controller. To much COD Black Ops can leave it feeling loose and can cause a drift. Toughest part of this repair was the disassembly of the controller since it requires a Torx T8h screwdriver. Make sure you have it before starting this repair.

  1. The left stick is the most common one to go bad.
    • The left stick is the most common one to go bad.

    • Depress the battery release button on the top of the controller. Remove the battery holder from the controller.

    • Use tweezers or similar instrument, to peel the barcode sticker from the battery compartment.ove the battery holder from the controller.

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  2. Remove the seven 9.3 mm T8 Security Torx screws securing the rear case to the front case.
    • Remove the seven 9.3 mm T8 Security Torx screws securing the rear case to the front case.

    • Insert a plastic opening tool between the front and rear cases along the left edge of the controller. Rotate the tool toward the front of the controller to pry the two cases apart.

    • Grasp the controller by the battery compartment and the headphone jack. Lift the battery compartment away from the headphone jack, separating the rear case from the front case and logic board.

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    • Tilt the bottom case slightly toward the trigger buttons to slide it off the top case

    • Here is a view of the inside of the controller. Note the vibration motors having different counter weights.

    • Remove the connector from the left motor (controller is positioned upside down, left controller will be shown right etc.)

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    • Remove the connector from the right motor

    • Both motors are disconnected. Notice position of the motors inside the case for re-assembly.

    • Remove logic board

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    • Notice placement of rubber membranes on the front case for reassembly.

    • To remove the covers of the analogs sticks, simply pull them from the mounting pegs.

    • View of the left analog stick to be removed.

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    • To remove the left analog stick, the left trigger button will have to be removed first. Desolder the three solder points. Use desoldering wick and some flux to remove the solder.

    • Left trigger points unsoldered.

    • There are 2 snaps holding the left trigger piece in place, remove those. It may take a bit of force, but simply push the snap over and down.

    Be extremely careful when soldering. I recently took apart the “for Windows" wired version, and the fragility of the circuit board's connection pads, even the ones for the USB wiring, was astonishing.

    rbol - Yanıt

    • When removing the left trigger, make sure that the points are unsolderd properly, gently pull the trigger downward.

    • Left trigger removed.

    • With the left trigger removed, simply turn the logic board over and find the 14 solder connections

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    • Use a desoldering wick and some flux to remove the solder.

    • Ensure that no other components get either desoldered or otherwise heat damaged.

    • Here, all points have been desoldered.

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    • Pull off the 3D analog stick gently to ensure that all solder connections are unsoldered.

    • Remove the analog stick

    • Put the new 3D analog stick in place. Make sure that it is seated flush against the board.

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    • Apply some flux to the solder points and the leg of the analog stick.

    • Solder the connections in place.

    • All points soldered back in place. The liquid black debris is flux. This can be removed by cleaning the board with some isopropyl alcohol after the soldering.

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    • Here is the board with the new sticks and the left trigger button resoldered.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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My controller left stick is physically okew..but in gaming it is moving on downwards...

How can I fix this,I don't knew to do this repairing!:(

Mohamed Irfan - Yanıt

Nice work, excellenté!

sadiqusman23 - Yanıt

I would like to note, you can unscrew the security screws with a 00 Flat head screwdriver. I just did it now and got all the screws out. Just gotta find the sweet spot, but it works.

gickygouse19 - Yanıt

Where do you purchase the actual 2-axis module that get resoldered to the board?

ivymaccurtin - Yanıt

muy buen tutorial, ¿¿¿no te sabras los valores de los condensadores c5 y c71??? es que tube un incidente y los arranque los dos.

un saludo

David Martin - Yanıt

David Martin I can probably find an old board and measure those for you, at least the capacitance. What happened to your caps?

David Martin Probablemente pueda encontrar un tablero viejo y medirlos para ti, al menos la capacidad. ¿Qué pasó con tus condensadores?

oldturkey03 -

I tried doing this and I mistakenly did not research the process first. I did not have a desoldering wick, so I just tried melting the solder and removing it a little at a time with the iron. I was able to get the old joystick off, but the solder is not sticking to the board, so I'm having trouble attaching the new one. Did I break something on the board?

Jonathan DeMattia - Yanıt

Jonathan DeMattia

you may have “peeled of the pads. We would need to see your work to give you more of an idea. You want to move this to “Answers” and in there add some pictures to your question.

oldturkey03 -

My original X360 wireless controller just died while I was playing, I double checked the batteries, the connection is good, I tried the play and charge cable but its still dead, and the controller its just 1 year old…

dwayneforgelc - Yanıt

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