Ana içeriğe geç

Eşyalarını Tamir Et

Onarma Hakkı

Parçalar ve Aletler

Guides for the Wi-Fi version of the iPad Mini 2. Announced October 22nd and released November 12th, 2013. The iPad mini 2, also known as the iPad mini with Retina Display, has all the pixels of the iPad Air in a smaller 7.9" form factor.

182 Soru Tümünü görüntüle

Accidentally replaced LCD digitizer without removing battery first

Hello,

I was wondering what I can do to power on my ipad mini 2 after I have replaced the LCD digitizer without removing the battery flex cable first? I read on the forum that you are supposed to put the battery cable on last after placing the LCD digitizer cable.

Also read that I may have to replace the fuse, which I'm not quite sure where it is located.

As of right now, the ipad is recognized on my laptop but, it doesn't power on.

Yanıtlandı! View the answer Ben de bu sorunu yaşıyorum

Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Puan 3

Yorumlar:

If it is the backlight circuit needing troubleshooting the iPad should still display something but very dim.

Usually backlight filters / fuse / chokes (I think they are called) need to be checked for continuity via a digital multimeter.

tarafından

Also you can hold a flashlight over the display, and see if you can still see the display

tarafından

Yorum Ekle

LCD iPhone Ekran Tamir Kit'leri

Ömür Boyu Garantimiz kapsamındaki bütçe seçeneği.

Shop Kits

LCD iPhone Ekran Tamir Kit'leri

Onarım maliyetlerini düşürün, kaliteyi değil.

Shop Kits

1 Cevap

Filtre ölçütü:
Seçilen Çözüm

The backlight fuse is not a fuse but a ferrite bead. The purpose of the ferrite bead is to filter out high frequency noise on the line. When there is high frequency noise, the ferrite bead acts like a resistor and throttles the noise.

When a DC signal is applied, the bead behaves as a near short (usually only in the milliOhm range, depending on the bead).

This component typically fails when you forget to disconnect the battery before removing or replacing the LCD connector. To properly test it, you need to check it's resistance with a meter. For all intents and purposes, it should read as a dead short (~0 Ohms).

On the mini 2, it is L2200 and it is under the shield. If you have the right tools and experience, it is not a difficult repair. Otherwise, I suggest you find a micro-soldering repair shop to have it done professionally.

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Puan 5
Yorum Ekle

Yanıtını ekle

chaubly sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
İstatistikleri Görüntüle:

Son 24 Saat: 0

Son 7 gün: 1

Son 30 gün: 5

Her zaman: 657