Convection fan hums but doesn't turn.

Total pain in the butt... i ordered a jy58 motor.. 220v unit.. and will attempt to merge the 2 motors together to make 1 working unit. The 'clips' are not able to be attached.. so im going to transplant them from a 220v motor to the original 110v windings. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0987TMX53

and the verdict is... yes, it can be done... and yes, the frankenstein motor works.. with a few notes:

.25) Be EXTREMELY careful. the covers are razor sharp.

.4) Have a torch handy. The screws on the sides of the fan blade hub are frozen solid, torch the hub for 15 seconds to loosen the Allen screw.

.5) take pictures as you disassemble the unit. Better yet, wait to disassemble until donor motor arrives. 1-2 weeks introduces a lot of mistakes when reassembling

.75) The screws holding the endcaps on... wet with acetone before trying to take apart.. otherwise, they will NOT come apart. they used some type of Lock-Tite in the threads that makes it a PITA if you don't soak with solvent.

1) The endcaps/bushing mounts don't fit. you need to (I used a stair step drill-bit) drill to open the magnetic winding core so the endcap alignment protrusion fits, after a minor drilling, they clicked right into place. Stair-step bit will auto center.

2) The center core needs to be swapped between units. The above motor doesn't have the external fan shaft for cooling the control board

3) the core doesn't match the same size. using the spare washers from the donor core, you can space them correctly. If you are still front to rear sloppy on the shaft, ace hardware carries nylon washers that fit. I bought 4 washers, I think I only used 1.. maybe 2. (23 cents apiece)

4) Be slow at disassembly and careful handling the motor core.. my unit is like 8? years old and the insulating plastic is brittle as all heck..

Did I mention to take pictures.. take A LOT of them....

reassembling the endcaps with the original core, don't use the new core's screws.. the motor wont fit if you try. The screws are too long.

The endcaps are NOT universal. Place the endcap with the threaded screw holes on the long shaft side of the motor.

Don't be afraid of sharpie marking panels as you disassemble.

Don't miss-place the spacer washers between the metal plate, insulating pad, insulating plate, and motor (take a lot of pictures)

If you need to step away and scream.. do so.

when the wife says "is it on? It isn't making that grumbling/buzzing noise anymore", smile.

Note: the original motor had a defective design. The new motor endcaps are crimped to not fail in the same way.

Note: if when re-assembling, the cover wont fit (right side).... the fan blades face INWARD.... /facepalm

Same here. This is my second, and there will be no third for me. It's time to move on. There are better companies out there.

The lubricant dried and the motor shaft seized in its bushings. I took it apart, cleaned and re-lubricated. Lasted another 2 years.

Mine was not ceased, but had excessive play -worn bushings. I managed to locate a spare motor, although with slightly different shaft end, but still managed to fit and and it still works already two years

the YJ58 is an oven fan rated at 220/110v with the exact same specs! you are welcome people!!!
LONG LIVE THE 800XL!!!

From your efforts, it sounds like the fan was hanging up on that "crud". Just do a good cleaning to totally eliminate that "dull knocking sound". The fan runs fine outside the unit - so it has to be interference making the noise.

That fan doesn't have a starter capacitor on it, does it?

I had the same problem. I completely removed the motor and took out the 2 screws holding the motor together. I found that the bushings were not worn at all, but the oven side bushing was loose. There's ring "clip" holding the busing in place. The clip looks like an inside out flower (pedals facing inward instead of outward). I applied some pressure on opposing pedals with a pair of needle nose pliers to reseat the busing and tighten it up. That removed all play in the shaft. After reassembling everything the noise was gone and the motor no longer stalled.

After about 3 years of use, the fan in our oven started making noise.

I had success with lubricating the fan through the inside vent... without taking the oven apart!

Place the oven on its right side. With the door open, the fan and vent will now allow a silicon spray (with a 'straw' attachment) to be directed through the vent to the center hub without dripping too much. After leaving it set for a few minutes, I plugged the oven in and turned on a cook setting that used convection and there was absolutely no noise.

This may change over time if the silicone dries, thickness or coagulates but... I will try another 1 minute fix before attempting to disassemble the metal housing.

Mine was making a loud hum as described. I took it apart and then reconnected the to control board connections and plugged it back in with the housing off so I could make a guess as to where the failure was, and it just started working again.

Costs nothing, worth a shot.

My best guess is that there was a bad connection somewhere that I re-seated.

The part I had the most trouble with was getting the housing off. There's a folded pinch connector at the front just where the housing meets the top of the hinged door, and you have to pull the housing straight back to get it off. It was really stuck there.

Before I did that I took off the feet, all of the screws on the back, and one screw under the bottom of the control panel accessible through a small hole.

The shaded pole motor has bronze bearings that wear out, when they wear it allows the magnetic field that drives the motor to pull the stator against the armature. Since the magnetism is able to pull the part that is supposed to turn against the part making the magnetic field that makes it turn they stick together when electricity is applied. The hum means the motor is not turning. The only option is replacing the motor, or making new bearings for it if you are skilled to do it..

Take the motor apart and check to make sure the bearings are stiff in the mount first. the motor end caps have packing in them you can use a light weight oil like sewing machine oil to saturate the packing, it will keep a good supply of oil to make it last.

Is this the culprit? The YJ58 bearing?

How were you able to remove the screws? They're facing the wrong way. Obviously intentional.

The motor has cast aluminum brackets on each end that house a brass bearing that is like a ball with a hole in it for the motor shaft. The bearing fits in the housing and is held in by a thin flexing star washer that when the motor was made, after the bearing was placed in the housing, the star washer was pressed in, the washer bows inwards so the star teeth on the outside dig into the housing to hold the bearing in place. They did not make the recess deep enough so the star washer pops out allowing the bearing to be loose which makes the motor stator stick to the armature instead of spin,

I took my motor out trashed the star washer and took a small drill bit and drilled through the housing lip where the star washer was, on each side of the bearing. I had some stiff wire that was around 30 thousandths of an inch I ran through the 4 holes, one wire across one side of the bearing and one wire across the other side of the bearing then bent the wires on each end to keep them in place. So the bearing was held in place and will never slip out again. I save all kinds of stuff and I had this old Harbor freight bug zapper tennis wand, it quit working so I salvaged the mesh wires from it and that is what I used to fix the motor. When you have the motor apart , the bearings have or should have some packing around them in the housing, be sure and soak the packing good with zoom oil while it is apart so the bearings will stay lubricated a long time, from the factory they do not put much oil in them. I am an old Sears Appliance Technician so I have experienced most everything. if any packing is missing you can use tissue or paper towel packed around the bearing. to hold the oil. I have not found replacements for this motor so I just decided to modify it where the problem would not happen again. Another problem with these ovens is getting this E5 code, they say you can reset it by unplugging it. I found that if that does not work it means there is a bad connecting in the circuit. I found that out by hitting the oven above the control panel as I plugged it in. The vibration from hitting it made the connection make contact and the oven started working.

I had taken it apart before to check the triac they say is the problem but it was okay, after unplugging and plugging back in a connector it started working. The triac is like a switching thermostat for AC voltage, when there is an open circuit in that part due to a bad connection, it will throw the e 5 code. If you take it apart with it unplugged, you can move one wire at a time and plug it back in and whichever wire you moved that made it start working is where the bad connection is, also you can unplug and plug back in different connector one at a time while un plugged and when the oven works and does not throw the code when you plug it back in, it was the wire or connector you moved right before it started working that is the problem.

Breville will not tell you this, they know what the design flaw is and want to profit off you sending it back to them to fix it, so most people throw them away. This world is too full of greed anymore, a Company makes an appliance with a design flaw they can profit from and they won't tell you . Most people are not that technical, but for the rest of us it would be nice if they pointed you to the problem in the design. I mean they designed the thing to throw an error code, so if they went to that trouble, they must have known the appliance had a design flaw to reference a code number to it.

They probably outsourced the fan motor and most likely thanks to Politicians working for Corporations, they are all crappy made in China, not like when I worked at Sears decades ago before China made everything and we did not have these issues in new appliances. Corporations make a lot more money using Chinese slave labor wages as money we pay for everything now goes to build China's military when there plan is to Rule the world. Our Politicians suck selling us out, mostly republicans are supporting corporations and billionaires, it was not like this back in the 1970s and early 1980s. Reagan started this crap.