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Repair information and service guides for the Whirlpool WRS315SDHW refrigerator.

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interior led lights syndrome failure both freezer and refrigerator

I have called Whirlpool with a half-hour wait to be told that the overhead light in the refrigerator compartment, which lost some of the LED's but not all so I have a dim light, is controlled by the freezer light which is totally dark, which I wouldn't have know until opened the freezer compartment. So the person who answered the phone was right: the LED light are NOT replaceable and the issue is in one of the doors (wrong) or on a wire harness. So I discovered a plunger switch in the freezer compartment so it makes some sense now that switch is part of the both lights system. Whirlpool charges $149 to get to the door, and most likely another $149 to leave. I refuse to pay $300 to fix a light bulb. I am hoping someone can give me some guidance on this. The model is WRDS325FDAM04. ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED!!

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Sears has part# 221 9875 $26.95. Any idea about installation guide and it does control both compartments. WRS325FDAM04 CORRECTED MODEL #


murray, i have almost the exact same issue you had. did you ever resolve it? NONE of my lights are working. i have replaced all of them and then both switches. they all light up very very dim. maybe 1 watt. hahaha. i found the ground wire that is green and yellow on the bottom rail after taking off the bottom kick plate cover. that ground was rusted/rotted out. i re grounded it and cannot get the lights to light up fully. i know the circut is complette, bc i can barely see the lights. i have to look closely though. i would also like to add.....all these parts can be found for less than 10$ from other sites. i used ali express dot com and had no problems with the parts as far as quality is concerned. i order from that site frequently and have for over 5 years


I did resolve my issue by purchasing the freezer compartment light. While the issue of a poor ground isn't helpful for lighting as much as safety, the lights are DC LED's as the top light on the fridge converts AC to DC, so the issue is which light is the one that needs to be replaced? In my case the freezer went out and that would be the first place to start. I have a volt meter which will tell you how many V you are getting in each board. I remember that what is need is between 12-15VDC for the board (diodes) will provide full light. So if you can get a meter on all 3, one at a time, the meter should reveal the board that has crapped out. I had a hard time getting my meter into the freezer because I could only get one hand in at a time, and I had trouble getting my probes on for a reading. Just too old and stiff to be able to do it. If you have a person available who can just hold the two probes, it is totally safe. The meter will indicate the voltage. I bought my board from Walmart of all places,


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Hi @mlb_fixit

You can replace the LED light control board in the refrigerator compartment (the board incorporates the LEDs - part #WPW10515058). Here's a video that shows how to do it.

You could try replacing the faulty LEDs themselves, but this is only if they're faulty and not if there's a problem on the board that affects only the ones that don't work. I can't find a schematic for it, you may have better luck ;-)

The freezer door switch is part # W11457217. (supersedes part # WP2321285). Here's a video that shows how to change it. (shown as light interlock switch in the tech sheet wiring diagram p.3 linked below).

If the freezer door switch is not the problem (disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use an Ohmmeter to test it) but it is the freezer LED light itself, the freezer LED board is part # WPW10515057. Here's a video that shows how to change it

The freezer door switch, besides operating the freezer light (and possibly the refrigerator lights - see below) also prevents the ice/water dispenser working if the freezer door is open.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that either door opened will also operate the lights in the other compartment. You can prove this by opening the refrigerator door and then the freezer door and then manually operate the freezer door switch and check if the freezer light stays on. The same the other way- open the freezer door then open the refrigerator door and then manually operate the door switch on the control panel and check if the refrigerator light stays on.

Switch part # 2219875, is now superseded by part # W2149705 but this is the switch in the control panel for the refrigerator lights (and possibly the freezer lights - see above) Here's a video that shows how to change it. (shown as light switch in the tech sheet wiring diagram p.3 linked below)

Search online using the part number only for the freezer door switch if testing shows it is faulty and the refrigerator LED control board (and freezer LED board if the switch is OK), to find suppliers that suit you best.

Here's the tech sheet for the refrigerator if you ever need to have the wiring diagram (simplified - see p.3 and detailed - see p.2) and the diagnostic tests.

Hopefully this is of some help.

WPW10515058 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Light Görseli


WPW10515058 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Light


WPW10515057 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Light Görseli


WPW10515057 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Light


W11457217 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Switch Görseli


W11457217 - Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Switch


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jaeff you are amazing.incredible reply, precisely what my issue is. one more question if you would: I did a little more digging after I sent my message and discovered that the freezer department was dark and I will get the appropriate switch and replace it. The fridge compartment LED's do light, but what seems to be fewer diodes than before. There is a plunger switch at the top of the box that I thought was used only to reset the water filter, but it does control the interior lights. Do you think that once I replace the freezer switch, the LED panel will light fully? I'm guessing if the freezer switch replacement lights the freezer compartment I can then go to the next step and replace the fridge compartment light panel? I think there is some electrical connection from the freezer switch to the LED panel but I may be whistling in the wind on that one. Can't thank you enough though. Really appreciate it!!!



I don't know the refrigerator but looking at the wiring diagram, both the door switches only supply power to all of the LED control boards i.e. refrigerator top and middle (they're there according to the parts diagram) and the freezer and not the individual LEDs on the boards themselves, so if some aren't working more likely it is the individual LED or a problem on the board and not the switch(es)

Either switch will light all sets of lights, refrigerator and freezer.

Of course you don't know this as usually you only open one door at a time and even if you open both doors and if everything was working OK then all sets of lights would be on anyway.

Try the test as I suggested by opening both doors and then manually operating the switch associated with each door, one at a time and check if all sets of lights stay on.

If the freezer light turns on with both doors open but with the freezer door switch manually operated closed but not when the refrigerator door switch is closed (and the freezer door switch is released) then the freezer door switch is the problem.

If the freezer LEDs don't work with the refrigerator door open (obviously you need the freezer door open to see) then most probably it is the LED board in the freezer.

It could be the wiring connection between the the two control boards in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer although I don't think so as you haven't said that the lights mounted in the middle of the refrigerator aren't working either.

If they're not working then it could be a wiring problem between the top lights and the middle lights and this would also affect the freezer lights.


thanks again Jay for your priceless information. I am pulling the freezer switch today and put my meter on continuity and see if can see if the switch shows a sweep when depressed. I put my meter on the the 3 blade switch (freezer side). I see continuity between Y-yellow and BK-black, but NOT between Y and BB-Blue. I am considering bypassing the switch with a jumper to see if any lights respond as that would be direct current. Any suggestions?



According to the wiring diagram there should be a short between yellow and black with the switch released (door open) and black and blue with the switch operated (door closed). There may be a high resistive reading between the yellow and blue caused by feedback path through the lights and the dispenser heater, but it won't be 0.00 Ohms

Be very careful when jumpering the switch. Be careful not to short out anything that shouldn't be and do not touch with the power connected


The boards convert the AC to DC for the LEDs to operate.

If you short out the switch then if the freezer LEDs work they will be on all the time door open or closed.

Did the freezer lights turn on when you opened the refrigerator door even with the freezer door open? You never mentioned the lower (middle?) lights in the refrigerator whether they're working or not?


OK Jay, I read you loud and clear on my jumper idea. I have abandoned it. The freezer has only one light, it sits below the ice-maker module. Need a flashlight to see the contents of the freezer. There are TWO lights in the fridge side, believe it or not I just noticed it as prior to the problem the overhead light is so bright that I never noticed the module behind fruit vegetable draw. BOTH of those lights are on, respond to a plunger switch, just don't have enough power to see the contents well. I got a quote from National Appliance Warehouse $104.95 for the module, plus shipping tax etc. She said that most often, if the bad module is replaced all lights light, and the switch is usually NOT the problem. to be continued...


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