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Kenmore is a popular appliance brand commonly sold by Sears, but Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves. Instead, they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them. Kenmore refrigerators are made by a variety of different manufacturers including LG, Electrolux, GE, and Whirlpool.

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I have Code ER FF. Kenmore Elite 75543. The fridge is room te

The fridge is room temp, but the freezer section is working great !

What do I do ?

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Hi @confusedforsure

According to p.25 of the service manual an Er FF error code indicates a problem with the evaporator fan (aka freezer fan in manual) in the freezer compartment.

This fan is used to blow the cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down to the required temperature.

If the fan wasn't working for some reason e.g. faulty fan motor, faulty fan blades (slipping on shaft) no power to the fan, iced up due to a defrost problem etc then the freezer temp would still be OK as the evaporator unit is located in the freezer but the temp in the refrigerator would be warmer than normal as no cold air is being blown there by the fan

See p.26 Test mode to see if you can hear the fan operating or not when in test mode.

There's a wiring schematic on p.11 showing where the freezer fan connects to the control board (CON 4 pins 1 & 2) so that you can test if the motor is OK before disassembling to check it in case it tests OK but there's another problem with the fan - see p.8 for how to access the freezer fan.

If a part is faulty and needs to be replaced there's a parts list towards the end of the manual. Locate the required part in the list and then search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best, e.g. the fan motor for your model is in Column 755*3 Item #404A p/n 4681JK1004D

Note: 755*3 is your model series

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jayeff. Thanks for the brain help ! And the manual .. (now I know how to operate the controls !)

I explored a lot of what you sent to me. With some confusion, and limited success.

Then I unloaded the whole machine, let it defrost overnight.

Plugged it in and all is working correctly.

I think that the air passage to the fridge must have been iced shut, or is there a flapper valve that may have been iced shut ??

It has been making thick ice in the bottom of the freezer compartment sporadically for a few years, such that I have had to remove it to open and close the freezer door.

Do you think there may be some problem with the defrost cycle ?

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@confusedforsure

It does seem like there's a defrost problem. The auto defrost cycle should occur at least once per day if not twice so there should never be that much build up of ice.

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) you can use its Ohmmeter function to initially check if the defrost heater circuit i.e. the thermal fuse and the defrost heater element, are OK.

Disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then access the control board and remove the harness cable from CON2 plug socket on the board.

Then connect the Ohmmeter between CON2 harness cable plug (not the socket on the board) pin 9 (Brown wire) and either an Earth point (clean, bright shiny metal on chassis) or the blue wire on pin 5 of CON3 as this is the same point.

You should get a resistance reading I don't know what it will be but it could be between 20-200 Ohms but definitely NOT open circuit i.e. OL or infinite Ohms on meter.

If you can't get a reading then either the fuse is open or the heater element is.

See p.8 of the manual for how to access the defrost heater and Fuse M

In case you test open circuit just to prove that the earth point is OK place the meter between the purple wire (pin 7 CON2) and the same earth point as before and you should get a reading for the dispenser valve which I assume has been working OK

See p.11 of the manual I linked for the wiring diagram, showing the heater and fuse etc.

If the heater circuit is OK, check that the drain tube leading from below the evaporator unit inside the freezer compartment to the evaporator pan underneath near the compressor is not blocked preventing the defrost meltwater from draining away to evaporate naturally. Pour a measured amount of water (1 cup?) down the drain hole and check that all of it reaches the pan.

If it is blocked this prevents the meltwater from draining and it refreezes and eventually it builds up and can stop the fan etc

If the heater circuit is OK and the drain is OK then it could be a control board problem i.e. not initiating the defrost cycle or if it is, not for long enough to adequately melt all of the ice from the evaporator unit.

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Confused for sure sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
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