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A1708/EMC 3164 — Released June 2017, this entry-level MacBook Pro retains its traditional function keys (as opposed to the OLED Touch Bar).

Is this display connector replaceable? :(

Is this damage repairable?

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Thank you :)

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@jrctjrct yes, it is. You will have to desolder all those components as well as the connector. Then clean the board and resolder new components. Of course, you will need to have decent soldering skills and good tools to do this.

For more in depth information, post some well focused pictures of the damaged components and area, as well as a picture that shows your whole board (mark the component's on that as well) with your question. The pictures you have posted are good but we need to focus on the logic board and the components.

Next, we will need to know the exact board number. There is a 820-xxxxx number printed on the logic board. That will be the one we need. It will help us to identify the components and allows us to check the circuits, just in case you may have to run jumpers etc.

My question to you is, what happened that created this kind of short circuit?

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Hello, thank you so much for helping me

I am really not sure what caused it but I believe that the connector is the J8500 and the other burnt part is the L4010

Will I have to replace the U8500?

I have added close up in focus images to the original post :)

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I believe the short was due to me doing a screen replacement but forgetting to remove the battery, but I don’t know more specifically

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@jrctjrct J8500 for what board (820-xxxx)? Looks like you have the board view file, so you most likely also have teh schematics. Use your board view to locate your components. Then use your schematic to determine type, size and package for the damaged components as well as the type of display connector. Then it is time to go to work. Desolder the old ones, clean your board, inspect for damaged traces and replace the components.

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Not trying to hijack here, but want to make sure I mention some things with the ability to post images (which I cannot do in a comment). Though honestly @oldturkey03 has this mostly covered.

This is an extremely common problem on most MacBooks of this style. The ferrite bead that blew (L4010) as a result of this, is the one on the line that powers the webcam/ambient light sensor. This can be caused by a few things. It could be, like you said, something to so with screen replacement while the battery was connected (and probably powered on). It could also be due to a bad TCON board, or short somewhere in a display cable, or any number of things. Liquid damage in the display is also a strong candidate.

You'll definitely need to replace the connector, and L4010. But. If that blowing out did its job, you shouldn't need to replace U8500. These ferrite beads often act similarly to fuses and will blow when a circuit is overloaded. But its hard to tell if U8500 sustained damage from the picture.

I would also be concerned with the level of char that the damage may have penetrated through multiple layers of the board in the area indicated below. I would make sure to test for shorts to ground at a minimum and I may replace U8500 just as a precaution. But first thing I would do is to take off L4010 and clean that area really well so you get a good idea how bad the damage is. Feel free to add more pictures if you're not sure. I have several of these kicking around I can do some testing on if you need. You know, for Science :)

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Puan 2

6 Yorum:

@flannelist perfect answer :-) Happy New Year friend!

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Hello, Thank you both so much for helping me, I am overwhelmed with your patience and kindness.

I have managed to source a place where I can buy a J8500 connector but I was wondering how I could find out how many Ohms/Amps the ferrite beads need to be or where to look to buy them?

Thank you so much :)

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@jrctjrct Schematic for this says its a 120 ohm 1.5A ferrite bead in a 0402 package.

The schematics for these are pretty easy to find if you search by the board number (which is listed in 820-XXXXX format usually somewhere on the board. Mine is for the 820-00875, but the other models will be similar enough its usually usable"

This one at Digikey would fit the bill. It's a bit higher amperage, which isn't ideal, but the closest I could find. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...

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Again, Thank You so much, would this one work?

https://uk.farnell.com/tdk/mpz1005s121et...

(If the link doesn’t work I have added a screenshot to the original post)

TYyy

:)

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@jrctjrct Yep! That one looks even better than mine because specs are exact.

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