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Repair information and disassembly guides for Amana washing machines.

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Amana Tandem 7300 Washer F6E1 Error - Not Spinning

Hi All,

I cleaned out the pump catch on my Tandem 7300 after it got the usual beep error due to a heavy load that wouldn't drain in time. Lots of junk removed. Power off machine for ten minutes. Plugged it in and the water drained and door opened.

Now - whenever I try to start a wash - or any cycle - the door locks and it sits for a while - no initial spin of the tub as before - and nothing happens until the beeping starts - code is an F6E1.

I found a Whirlpool service manual online ( see https://www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/gl... ) which was really helpful as it allowed me to run diagnostics. The lock, then water fill, then water drain cycles seem to work then beeping starts. Same error. I clear the error and repeated the diagnostics a few time - same results.

I took off the top and back of the machine - the tub belt is fine and the motor spins freely. The motor does nothing during the diagnostics - doesn't make any noise or try to spin.

I re-seated all cabled everywhere I could - to the motor, control panel, water valve switches on hot and cold lines and what looks like the water detector at the bottom of the tub enclosure - still I get the same error during diagnostics - and no cycles will start normally past the initial lock of the door.

Can anyone advise on what this might be? I can't find a service manual for the exact model and the user manual is intentionally vague - but the service manual for newer front-loaders I found suggests the problem is the HMI - Human-Machine Interface - which I think means the front panel?

Thanks for any and all assistance!

Mike

Update (04/06/25)

Hello - An update:

The service manual indicated that the problem was most likely the Motor Control Unit (MCU) so I ordered a replacement. The replacement came and I installed it - the problem still exists. The only difference is now I hear a click when the motor should run - after the normal door lock click (not the same click - this click comes from under the tub - either the MCU or the motor. But, the motor still doesn't spin.

So - any cycle that I run I get the same as before except I'm hearing an click after the door lock - then after a few minutes the beeps start with the F6E1 error again.

When I run diagnostics - all the cycles work up to the tub spin test - again, the same error.

Any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

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Hi @michaelcasale

Follow the TEST #3 Motor Circuit as shown on p.15 of the tech sheet you linked or the Motor Resistance Test on p.7 of the tech sheet I linked below, (see Note) to check if the motor itself is OK.

I'm not sure from your question whether you checked the resistance of the motor windings to see if it is OK or not.

If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing and if it is the model number as shown below then here's the parts list that is useful.

Locate the wanted part in the list and note the manufacturer's part number that is shown with it. Search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

Note: If the full model number of your washer is NFW7300WW00 then according to two major parts suppliers. the tech sheet for your model is Whirlpool p/n W10252711 and not W11320651B as you have linked. The 6F E1 error code indicates the same problem area but the sheet that you linked is more comprehensive what to check if it occurs.

If it isn't the model number of your machine, please post what number it is, as it may help to find the correct information (and parts if necessary).

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Hello- Thanks for the guidance. I pulled the motor and ran the motor test - the resistance was just over 6 ohms for each pair of pins I was asked to test - so the motor seems good.

I checked all the ground wires and reseated all the connectors - no problem. Then I ran the diagnostics again and I got the same error.

Can we safely rule out the motor and say its the MCU and not the Control Board?

Mike

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@michaelcasale

The motor appears to be OK.

I realize that you said that you re-seated all the cables but check the continuity of each of the wires from the M13 and MS2 connectors on the control board to the MCU. Also check each of the wires from the MCU to the motor for continuity.

Do this with the power disconnected from the machine and the harness cables unplugged from the board etc

This way you're proving the wires themselves and will not get a false reading because of parallel back paths that might exist.

If all the wiring checks out then as the motor seems to be OK and the control board functions seems to work (except the motor starting of course) then I'd say it could be the MCU .

There's no specific test to isolate it to either it or the control board.

Perhaps order the MCU from a supplier that has a good returns policy so as to minimize the cost to you if it isn't the problem

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@michaelcasale

Did you do the tachometer resistance test as well to prove that it is OK?

Just wondering if it were faulty then because the MCU doesn't detect the motor's rpm (or even the tachometer sensor) that it won't start the motor because it can't control its speed.

According to the tech sheet (see p.7), if it is faulty then the motor will have to be replaced as it is inbuilt in the motor.

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