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Use this guide to remove the temperature sensor or thermistor in your LG front load washing machine.
The temperature sensor tells the washer what the water temperature is at. If your washer throws a "TE error", replacing this sensor may fix the issue. The temperature sensor is mounted near the bottom of the drum.
This guide will work for most LG front load washing machines. This guide is written with a model WM3050CW washer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.
The metal ring holding the rubber boot can be difficult to reinstall. You can buy this tool to make the reinstallation easier, or ask additional people to help.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Turn off the main water supply
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Unplug your washer
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Disconnect all water connections at the rear of your washer
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Remove the screw(s) securing the top panel brackets to the back panel.
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Slide the top panel towards the rear of the device to disconnect its clips.
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Pull the detergent drawer away from the chassis as far as it will go.
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Disconnect the connectors attached to the control panel.
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Remove the screw(s) securing the control panel to the top edge of the chassis.
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Remove the screw(s) securing the detergent dispenser.
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Use a flathead screwdriver, or a pry tool, to unclip the control panel from the chassis.
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Remove the control panel, making sure to thread any cables through the chassis.
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Use needle nose pliers to grip the spring end of the metal ring at the bottom of the rubber boot.
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Pull the ring away from the chassis to separate it from the boot.
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Use your hand to completely pull the ring off the boot.
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Insert one end of the ring into its groove along the boot's perimeter.
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Use pliers to slowly stretch the ring around the boot's perimeter until it's completely nested in its groove.
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Use your fingers to pull the boot off its lip on the front panel.
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Open the filter panel at the bottom of the front panel.
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Unclip the filter panel.
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Place a bowl next to the machine.
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Pull the drain filter hose out of its slot in the chassis enough to lay over the bowl.
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Remove the plug at the end of the drain filter hose to release excess water into the bowl.
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Pull the filter trim straight off the front panel to remove it.
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Pull the door latch through its slot in the chassis and let it hang on its wire.
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Lift the front panel upward to separate it from its clips on the bottom of the chassis.
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Pull the front panel away from the chassis to completely separate the front panel.
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Disconnect the temperature sensor attached to the chassis.
You would likely have to buy the whole wiring harness. You would be better off just splicing those wires if needed.
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Use angle cutters, or scissors, to cut any cable ties securing the temperature sensor to the chassis.
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Pull the temperature sensor straight out of its slot in the chassis to remove it.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
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Thank you. the WM2240CW model lower panel screw is a tough fit for a screw driver. I had to tilt the front panel to access the lower panel screw.
Or you could just flip unit on it's side and access it underneath in about 15 minutes....
While this is a speedy way to gain access, it is not what LG recommends. (Not that every manufacturer's recommendation is the only way to go, but in this case...) Front-load units have shipping bolts that are supposed to be installed so they can be shipped or moved to a new location. They hold the tub in place so the suspension can't shift in ways it isn't designed to accommodate (on its side is one of those directions). Several potential issues can arise if they aren't in place. Suspension springs can come loose if the spring retainer isn't fully in place. You might also have a hose pull loose from the tub. The suspension dampers aren't meant to bear the load of the tub and drum laterally. The front tub boot may be pulled loose. So, if you choose this access route, strongly consider installing the shipping bolts, tipping the unit to the rear, and securely supporting it from underneath in that position. Since the temperature sensor is on the bottom of the tub, it can be reached this way.
WM2140C: The instructions were excellent - even though tipping is an option that as noted by Kale comes also with some caveats... Trouble is, I replaced the thermistor and ran five cycles only to have the error return... what are the odds the replacement thermistor was also bad OR could there be something in that circuit causing it to go bad?
Your best bet is to carefully check the wiring harness. You should be able to determine which connector on the main control board comes from the temperature sensing thermistor, and then you can check all the wire by making your test at the control board harness. You should get the room temperature thermistor resistance reading at that point. Then you may be able to jump the thermistor connection at the thermistor end and use a continuity beeper while you manually move the harness around to see if you have an intermittent failure. Not likely that the control board is frying the thermistor. They usually only apply a potential of a few volts and then monitor the voltage drop. You can try to check this voltage but I think the wiring harness will be more fruitful. Look especially near clamps that hold the harness where the wire can flex because of drum movement.
DO NOT USE THESE Instructions 🤦♂️. It will take you for ever. Go from the back, lie down on the ground take it I’ll put the new one in done. Or do it with someone you leave it a tad side ways and even easier
Mechanicbob - Yanıt