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Use this guide to replace the battery in your Logitech MX Master 3S mouse.
Lithium-ion batteries have a limited lifespan. If your mouse dies quickly, it may be time to replace the battery.
If possible, follow this guide after your battery has fallen below 25% charge. While your MX Master 3S has a relatively small battery, any charged battery is a potential safety hazard if accidentally bent or punctured.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Flip the mouse's power switch into the OFF position, unplug any cables, and flip it over so the feet are facing up.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to each of the mouse feet for about one minute each.
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Slide an opening pick under an edge of the left mouse foot.
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Slide your pick under the foot to separate its adhesive until you can grab it with your fingers.
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Peel up and remove the left mouse foot.
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Repeat the previous two steps for the three remaining feet.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under an edge of the adhesive. If the adhesive seems stuck, you may need to heat the adhesive further.
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Use a pair of tweezers or a spudger to remove any large chunks of leftover adhesive.
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Thoroughly clean the bottom of the mouse with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free of microfiber cloth. Allow the surface to dry completely.
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Peel your new mouse feet away from their adhesive liners and press them firmly into place.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 4.3 mm‑long screws securing the bottom half of the lower case.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the one 4.2 mm‑long screw securing the top half of the lower case.
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Insert your opening pick into the seam between the thumb rest and the lower case.
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Slide your pick right, towards the rear of the upper shell and pry upward to release the left clips.
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Gently pry the upper shell and lower case apart to release the clips on the right side of the mouse.
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Lay your mouse down onto your work surface, making sure none of the clips re-engage.
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Grasp the upper shell and partially lift up the right edge.
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Pull the upper shell up and back to release the final clip and separate the upper shell from the lower case.
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Lift the upper shell away from the lower case and lay it to the right of the mouse.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift up the sliding lock on the interconnect cable socket.
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Slide the cable straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the top of the battery connector.
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Gently rock the connector side to side and pull it out of its socket.
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If the connector won't budge, skip to the next step for an alternate method.
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Insert each arm of a pair of pointed tweezers into the cutouts on the side of the battery connector's motherboard socket.
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Push the connector up, just enough to grip the top of the connector with another pair of tweezers or your fingers.
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Pull the battery connector completely out of its socket to disconnect it.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm-long screws securing the battery housing.
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Flip the battery housing over so the battery is facing down.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the battery housing for about 2 minutes to soften the battery adhesive.
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Insert the long edge of an opening pick between the battery and its housing at the side opposite the battery cable.
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Push the opening pick under the battery and lift up to pry the battery out of its housing.
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Remove the battery.
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Use a spudger or your fingers to peel any old adhesive off of the battery housing. The old adhesive shouldn't leave any residue.
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If your new battery doesn't come with preinstalled adhesive, place a couple strips of double-sided tape into the battery housing.
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Orient your new battery so its cables route through the cutout in the corner of the housing. Press the battery firmly into place to secure it.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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5Kılavuz Yorumları
Sounds easier than it is. Broke the mouse and couldn't get it back together. The ribbon cable locks are super flimsy and getting the top back on is nearly impossible and there is no direction for that. I have built keyboards and things, but this is in another league.
Much easier to order another on Amazon and return the old one in its place. It s*cks... but if you charge $100 for a mouse and it breaks within a year, it should be on the company, not the consumer.
isn't the screwdriver too short to reach the recessed screw in the bottom?
Commenting to confirm, this repair can be done. Be careful around the ribbon cable step, don't tug the two halves, try to ease it off. My cable came loose, but the cable lock was intact, so I was safe to reconnect the cable. When putting the two halves back together, it takes more pressure than I was comfortable using to get the last pin. Start with the weird 'U' section of the mouse, then work your way around the back and thumb-side of the mouse. The final pin for me was the front underneath the left/right click at the front of the mouse. If you are certain it's the last pin, put pressure to close the mouse. My mouse is fine, I hope yours will be too. You're experience may vary. Oh and the provided screwdriver was able to reach the recessed screw with a few millimeters to spare. They provided a long Philips bit. You're average Philips bit, will not reach. They provided a 1.125 inch bit or in metric, around 2.857 cm. 'Bit' doesn't include or account for the shape of screwdriver or the screwdriver's insert.
