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Use this guide to upgrade or replace the solid-state drive in a MacBook Pro 13” Late 2013. This MacBook Pro uses a proprietary storage drive connector, and is therefore not compatible with common M.2 drives without the use of an adapter.

Before you perform this repair, if at all possible, back up your existing SSD. Then, either familiarize yourself with internet recovery or create a bootable external drive so you’ll be ready to install macOS onto your new drive and migrate your data to the new SSD.

Finally, we strongly recommend installing macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS) before replacing the original SSD from your MacBook Pro. Most new SSDs require updated storage drivers not found in versions of macOS prior to High Sierra.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Yanıt

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Yanıt

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Yanıt

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Yanıt

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Yanıt

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Yanıt

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Yanıt

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Yanıt

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Yanıt

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - Yanıt

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - Yanıt

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Yanıt

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Yanıt

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Yanıt

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Yanıt

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Yanıt

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Yanıt

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Yanıt

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Yanıt

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

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  4. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Yanıt

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Yanıt

    I agree. No point in removing the battery connection, as it’s one more thing that can break. Just be careful to shut down your machine before doing any work on it.

    Ron LaPedis -

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  5. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Yanıt

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Yanıt

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Yanıt

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Yanıt

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Yanıt

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Yanıt

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Yanıt

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Yanıt

  6. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Yanıt

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Yanıt

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Yanıt

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Yanıt

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  7. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    In case you need it, the underside of the SSD board will indicate the size of the drive, e.g., 128GB.

    Aldo Cugnini - Yanıt

  8. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board. Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4". Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4".
    • Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4".

    Transcend 960GB JetDrive 720 SATAIII 6Gb/s Solid State Drive Upgrade Kit for MacBook Pro 13" with Retina Display, Late 2012 - Early 2013 (TS960GJDM720) - Is this compatible with the Macbook Pro 13" Retina - Mid 2014?

    Jess - Yanıt

    Según el fabricante no, me puse en contacto con ellos y dicen que estan en desarrollo. Yo ya pregunte en este foro por que otro unidad de ssd cambio la original y nadie responde...

    According to the manufacturer no, I got in touch with them and say they are developing . I already ask at this forum by another unit ssd change the original and nobody answers ..

    Antonio -

    Manufacturers that don't say it's compatible, just haven't tested it. You just have to pay special attention to the notch(es) on the connector. I had a 512 GB SSD lying around, but it had two notches at 1/3 and 2/3 (M.2 B & M notches) instead of the MacBook's notch that's somewhat in the middle and is NOT a standard of the M.2 format.

    addvariety -

    No. But OWC now sells a higher capacity SSD for the 2015 MBP's

    robert Seith - Yanıt

    Great guide!

    Daniel - Yanıt

    Why do I need to disconnect the battery?

    David DelMonte - Yanıt

    To prevent damage on motherboard while connecting/disconnecting SSD.

    Fedor Zhuromsky -

    What are your recommendations for transferring the data to the replacement flash drive?

    ari - Yanıt

    Before changing hard drive, back up data via Time Machine. After hard drive replacement, restore Time Machine backup onto new hard drive.

    William -

    no other brand sad, for MacBook RD mid 2014?

    iCalfixit - Yanıt

    Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

    VVK - Yanıt

    Yes, you can.

    Oleg -

    Can i use 1T ssd in macbook Retina Mf840 ??? change 256 to 512 or 1T :/

    Pedram BehzadiFar - Yanıt

    Hey, do you know if Transcend Jetdrive 725 is compatible with a 2015 MBP 13 retina ? Thanks for your help

    Leo Merazian - Yanıt

    Could the ssd replace the 128gb hdd? Are they same size?

    wongsamson7 - Yanıt

    I’m hoping to install a 1TB or 2TB (preferably 2TB) in a MacBook Pro 13” early 2015 model. Which brand & model SSD would be recommended

    Kryn Sporry - Yanıt

    I just installed a OWC Aura Pro 1T in my mid 2014 MacBook Pro. Reviews were really good, OWC makes SSD’s for macs. Review on Macworld were good and they won awards back in 2011. So far no issues. Ironically the SSD originally came in my MacBook is a sandisk from apple. Almost 5 years and never had issues. Just too small of an SSD. Keeping it in the OWC EnvoyPro enclosure that came with the upgrade kit.

    Peppon -

    Hey fellow Upgraders :)I am currently working with an MBP 13inch early 2015, 128 Gb SSD inside. As we all know, that is barely enough to store your own photos on, and when the wife’s collection is added… well, let’s just say I need to put at least a 1TB in :)

    Checked all the comments, and concluded HW-wise Samsungs are a no go, as per notches not in the semi middle.

    One thing I have not anybody seen mentioning here is the heat production of the SSD. If I would put a 1TB in will it likely overheat and die in the enclosure, or do I not have to worry about it. Although there are air-vents on the MBP, I have not found a fan (hate sound anyway) to keep things cool.

    Your thoughts?

    Regards, Rick

    Rick Wilbrink - Yanıt

    If you’d like to use Samsung’s M.2 NVMe SSDs (and probably any other M.2 NVMe SSD currently on the market) you’ll have to get an adapter that will allow it; https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Adapter-U.... As far as heat production is concerned the SSD’s built-in throttling mechanism can help mitigate that if it decides it’s running too hot; usually when there are large file transfers taking place. Off the top of my head I think Samsung and WD do thermal throttling.

    Barry Effinger -

    Consider adding a micro SD card, with an adapter, to the Macbook Pro permanently. Great way to add capacity beyond the SSD. You can get several adapters that are “low profile” and will not protrude form your MBP.

    petepub - Yanıt

    I just replaced my mid 2014 MacBook Pro 128 GB SSD to the Aura Pro X2 1T. Taking the old SSD out was easy but installing the new Aura pro X2 took several tries. I thought it was not going to fit as it only seated part way. I was getting a little worried but after a few tries I got it to seat all the way in. Formatted the drive per OWC instructions on their site and I’m waiting on the Time Machine Back-Up to complete. OWC site had a few e xtra steps than ifixit steps. MacBook Pro booted up fine and displayed the new Aura SSD. Formatted as noted in instructions as well. No issues to this point. I will update once restore is done. HOPE ALLWORKS FINE!!!!

    Peppon - Yanıt

    SUCCESS!!!!! All worked great, took a bit to reboot after back up restore. Part of the issue why it took so long I had to turn WiFi back on. Then it uploaded all my settings once I signed into my Apple ID account.

    Peppon -

    Hola, gracias por la guia. Estoy pensando en cambiar mi disco SSD (128gb) del Macbook Pro Retina finales de 2013, para tener más espacio para Windows 10, que necesito para un tema de trabajo y ahora mismo tengo bootcamp y tanto el OS X como el Windows están ajustadisimos los dos metidos en 128Gb. ¿Podría seguir usando bootcamp tras actualizar el disco duro o cambia algo?

    Nombre del modelo: MacBook Pro

    Identificador del modelo: MacBookPro11,1

    ¿Alguien me recomienda en su caso un disco duro compatible de 480gb?

    Carlos - Yanıt

    Carlos, aqui lo recomiendo un disco duro combatible de 480gb: OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD

    Lo del bootcamp, no sé si entiendo completamente? Sí se puede seguir usando bootcamp tras actualizar el disco duro, pero yo creo que tendrá que iniciar bootcamp en el nuevo SSD primeramente, y copiar los datos del otro SSD después. Dependerá en cómo lo ha preparado en la maquina suya.

    ¡Que le vaya bien!

    Taylor Dixon - Yanıt

    Muchas gracias. La idea era simplemente recuperar OS X (desde Time Machine o incluso reinstalar) y después ya volver a instalar bootcamp y Windows, mi duda era solo si al cambiar el disco sigue siendo siendo posible instalar bootcamp, y parece que así que me pondré a ello. Gracias!

    Carlos -

    So whats the best way to get the OS on my new SSD?

    Hans-Martin Rottenschlager - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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So… can I just buy the new PCIe SSDs and use it in the 2013 rMBP? I'm very confused about these PCIe SSDs.

Timothy Brown - Yanıt

My retina 15" got the logic board damage and fix it is just stupid. Now in the mean time the new ones come up next quarter, I'm using my macbook pro 2011. Now, because the 2011 is no Retina, SSD and all the other good stuff in it (crying in silence) I did some research to make the 2011 better and I found out I can upgrade to 16 ram and a SSD. Now I check and is not that expensive at least for a SSD 128. BUT this morning it hit me, and I want to ask and make research about this idea. Guys I was wondering, can I take the SSD from my Retina that is actually SSD 256 and put it in my 2011? And save in the SSD? I mean, if possible of curse, if not I would go to buy it how I plan in the first place. Anyway guys any suggestions, ideas or advice are all welcome. I want to know whats best to improve the 2011 meanwhile the new ones get the upgrade. Thanks in advance! :)

tane883 - Yanıt

Can I use an Intel SSD 540s SSD M.2? Intel says it doesn't support NVMe. Does it need to or would that just add extra performance?

3PL - Yanıt

Can you also please put a link how to reinstall mac os after installing a new hardrive? thanks

Joseph Grigoletti - Yanıt

Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

VVK - Yanıt

so im confused about those SSDs right now. This here is an PCIe SSD, right?

Adi - Yanıt

I have a 2015 model Macbook 13inch retina display. Is this sansung SSD compatible with it? https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/mem...

Manny Ramirez - Yanıt

Hola, sabe alguien si se puede poner en la placa a1502 un disco duro ssd m2 samsung EVO PLUS de 1TB con adaptador.Gracias

David - Yanıt

I upgraded the SSD to a OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD recommended by Taylor Dixon  above. Replacing the disk was easy and after that, and setting up OS X again was also easy.

Then I tried to install Bootcamp, in order to install Windows 10 too (which is the main reason why I have upgraded the disk). I’ve had Bootcamp running in that machine already, but 120Gb disk for both OS makes them both have few space.

Sadly, Windows 10 installation fails after rebooting, it shows “Processing devices”, which goes to 100%, but then it shows “Processing” and after a while it crashes (BSOD), and you have to start again. cause after that every reboot leads you to a screen saying the installation could not continue and you should restart (what becomes and endless loop). Of course you can still boot OSX by pressing “option” on reboot, so I tried several times. Today I will try again with another USB stick, but if anyone has gone through this ir would be helpful to have some help.

Thanks!

Carlos - Yanıt

Hi. I just wanted to mention I contacted OWC and they told me AUra Pro X2 SSD is NOT compatible with Bootcamp on Late 2013 MacBook Pro (MacbookPro 11,1). So if you are looking for a good solution to increase you OSX space it’s ok, but if what you want is to increase both OSX and Windows, forget about it.

Carlos - Yanıt

Carlos, I’m so sorry to hear this! I should have done some more research before recommending the drive to you. It does look like OWC makes a “boot camp enabler” works for some of their drives? You can try downloading that here. Otherwise, you’re welcome to return the OWC drive and try using a standard m.2 drive with an adapter. Unfortunately we don’t sell the adapters though, so you’ll have to find one on your own. :( These adapters from Sintech come pretty highly recommended in this master SSD upgrade thread from MacRumors. Sorry again, and good luck!

Taylor Dixon -

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