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This guide will go over how to remove the motherboard on the Microsoft Surface Pro 5. Since the motherboard is the central part of the tablet computer, it takes some work to get to it. The iOpener is used in this guide, but a hair dryer or heat gun could also be used. See instructions for the iOpener here.

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display and/or battery.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes.

  2. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame. If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Slide the pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

    • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. Use more heat or a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

    The screen switch out took me over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix. As suggested here, my broken screen shattered even more despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added greatly to the time needed to fix. I found it helpful to work to separate the screen from the adhesive so that the adhesive remained behind and acted as a protective layer for the antennae. Once the glass was off, I went back and removed the glass shards from the adhesive with a plastic spudger and only replaced the adhesive that I had removed adding new adhesive to the gaps which worked well.

    Lauren Alvarado - Yanıt

    I just couldn’t get this method to work with an unbroken screen. However much I applied heat with a heat gun and heaved on the suction cup, it just wouldn’t move. What did work was applying a more gentle heat and sliding a razor blade along the edge until it was loose enough to get a plastic pick in. I was able to remove the screen intact but unfortunately it was already damaged by the extreme heat I had used to begin with.

    Hugh Coleman - Yanıt

  3. Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool. Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool.

    • Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    Be very careful here. The ribbon cables are quite fragile.

    Hugh Coleman - Yanıt

  4. Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove. Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove.

    • Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    There is a small battery logo near the battery on the motherboard , it looks like a battery out of juice logo, you want to short the two parts of the logo together (so that the red led next to it turns off) so that the battery isnt powering the motherboard anylonger so that you dont blow backlight or any other circuts

    aaron stevenson - Yanıt

    I’d love for this to be true, but I’ve searched very thoroughly and I don’t see it. Checked the Surface Pro 4 and SP6 as well. AFAIK there’s no way to disconnect the battery. Just wasn’t designed to be serviced at all.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s there and it works! Thanks!

    Jay Bremner - Yanıt

    • Remove the screen from the rest of the device .

    • To replace the adhesive securing the screen, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

  5. Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.
    • Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.

  6. Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.
    • Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.

  7. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.
    • Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.

    Wait why is the fan missing all of a sudden?

    Michael Hoadley - Yanıt

  8. Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.
    • Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.

    • Avoid touching the thermal paste that is on the back of the heat sink and on the front of the CPU. If you get thermal paste on your hands, wash it off with mild soap and water.

  9. Pry off the metal cover covering the front and rear camera ribbon cable motherboard connections using a nylon spudger.
    • Pry off the metal cover covering the front and rear camera ribbon cable motherboard connections using a nylon spudger.

  10. Lift the front camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.
    • Lift the front camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.

  11. Remove the front camera.
    • Remove the front camera.

  12. Remove the two Torx T3 x 2.5mm screws holding down the rear camera.
    • Remove the two Torx T3 x 2.5mm screws holding down the rear camera.

  13. Lift the rear camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.
    • Lift the rear camera ribbon cable off the motherboard using the nylon spudger.

  14. Remove the rear camera.
    • Remove the rear camera.

  15. Pry up the metal cover on the motherboard using either the nylon spudger or plastic opening tool.
    • Pry up the metal cover on the motherboard using either the nylon spudger or plastic opening tool.

  16. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 3mm screws from the ribbon holder on top of the colored cables.
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 3mm screws from the ribbon holder on top of the colored cables.

  17. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 3mm screws holding the charging port assembly to the case.
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 3mm screws holding the charging port assembly to the case.

  18. Use the nylon spudger to pop off the ribbon connector for the ribbon going over the charging port connection.
    • Use the nylon spudger to pop off the ribbon connector for the ribbon going over the charging port connection.

  19. Remove the ribbon by lifting up and sliding out the connector.
    • Remove the ribbon by lifting up and sliding out the connector.

  20. Use the nylon spudger to pop up the clamp on the charging port connection.
    • Use the nylon spudger to pop up the clamp on the charging port connection.

  21. Grab the opened clamp on the charging port connecting cables and disconnect it by pulling back.
    • Grab the opened clamp on the charging port connecting cables and disconnect it by pulling back.

    • This may take some force to disconnect.

  22. Remove the charging port by pulling the connector in the direction of the batteries.
    • Remove the charging port by pulling the connector in the direction of the batteries.

    • Pull carefully so that the cables do not get pulled out of the connector.

  23. Pry up the large metal cover next to the right speaker using the nylon spudger. Pry up the large metal cover next to the right speaker using the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the large metal cover next to the right speaker using the nylon spudger.

  24. Remove the Torx T4 3mm screw.
    • Remove the Torx T4 3mm screw.

    • Remove the Torx T5 6mm screw.

  25. Lift up the right speaker being careful not to pull out the cable that is still connected.
    • Lift up the right speaker being careful not to pull out the cable that is still connected.

  26. Grab the black and red cable on the bottom using tweezers.
    • Grab the black and red cable on the bottom using tweezers.

    • Lift the black and red cable out of its port.

  27. Remove the right speaker from the device.
    • Remove the right speaker from the device.

  28. Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.
    • Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.

  29. Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.
    • Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.

  30. Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.
    • Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.

  31. Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.
    • Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.

  32. Disconnect the black and red cable connector and the ribbon from the motherboard that connect the power button assembly. Disconnect the black and red cable connector and the ribbon from the motherboard that connect the power button assembly.
    • Disconnect the black and red cable connector and the ribbon from the motherboard that connect the power button assembly.

  33. Remove the eight 2.5 mm T3 screws from the motherboard. Remove the eight 2.5 mm T3 screws from the motherboard.
    • Remove the eight 2.5 mm T3 screws from the motherboard.

  34. Use the plastic opening tool to pop up the connector going from the edge of the case to the motherboard. Use a Torx T3 to remove the one 2.5 mm screw on the motherboard.
    • Use the plastic opening tool to pop up the connector going from the edge of the case to the motherboard.

    • Use a Torx T3 to remove the one 2.5 mm screw on the motherboard.

  35. Remove the motherboard by using a hand to lift up and move it to the right.
    • Remove the motherboard by using a hand to lift up and move it to the right.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Kaden Foster

Üyelik tarihi: 02-10-2017

490 İtibar

3 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

Takım

Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 üyesi

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F17S15G3

3 Üyeler

22 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

6 Yorum

Hi

I need to buy motherboard for surface pro 5, can I find it? shipping to Iraq?please

AlSanam Iraq - Yanıt

whats happens to you? i also need one.

Mustafa H. Allawi -

Can you help with the make of the motherboard. My surface is missing the raid controller and it is not part of the package of drivers. Microsoft is pushing for a device replacement and im not convinced my device is beyond repair. The identity of the motherboard will help me identify a suitable raid controller. Pls share if you have info. It will be of great help.

Arjun Muralidharan - Yanıt

Very thorough like always. Thanks. ifixit.com is a resource that I pull up when doing any major repair to PC or tablet etc. Allows you to waste no time with getting to the right step at the right time. Order of operations is everything when it comes to taking apart a laptop especially due to the way it is assembled in “layers”, for lack of a better word.

Brandon Peacock

BLP PC Repair

Aka “Speedy PC Repair “

Brandon Peacock - Yanıt

Thanks for your detailed guide; without it I’m sure I’d have had much greater difficulty in replacing the battery in my Surface 1796 model.

Being a bit pedantic, could I suggest a couple of adjustments to the order of steps in the process?

For example: Steps 10-15 can’t be done till Steps 29-32 have been done. In the pictures for Steps 10-15 the camera tie bar has already been removed but this removal is described in 29-32.

Also, Steps 17, 19, 20 describe the removal of the SD card slot and connector. Step 18 thus belongs with steps 21-23.

Probably being too fussy but just thought I’d share the observations.

Phillip Zadro - Yanıt

Hi , many thanks for the guide. Excellent.

But anybody can explain if it’s possible to get data from the internal SSD storage ? I

Regards

Ricardo - Yanıt

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