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Use this guide to replace the joystick control modules on your Nintendo Switch Controller. To complete this project, you must be able to solder. Care should be taken in the removal of the plastic body pieces and the internal circuit board of the device to avoid damage that could render the device inoperable. This project also involves the removal of a lithium-ion battery, and if swollen, be sure to take appropriate precautions.

  1. Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.
    • Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two black flathead 8.4 mm-long screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.

  2. Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body. Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body. Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.
    • Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.

  3. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four silver 6.8 mm-long screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four silver 6.8 mm-long screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.

  4. Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover  using your fingernail. Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover  using your fingernail. Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover  using your fingernail.
    • Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover using your fingernail.

  5. Remove the clear plastic cover.
    • Remove the clear plastic cover.

  6. Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side. Only a small amount of force is needed. Only a small amount of force is needed.
    • Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side.

    • Only a small amount of force is needed.

  7. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 5mm-long screws from the back of the controller. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 5mm-long screws from the back of the controller. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 5mm-long screws from the back of the controller.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 5mm-long screws from the back of the controller.

    the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up

    Andrew Feliz - Yanıt

    Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.

    An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.

    Douglas Selby -

  8. Delicately take off the plastic cover from the controller. Do not completely remove the front cover just yet, as it is still attached to the motherboard via a white ribbon cable. Do not completely remove the front cover just yet, as it is still attached to the motherboard via a white ribbon cable.
    • Delicately take off the plastic cover from the controller.

    • Do not completely remove the front cover just yet, as it is still attached to the motherboard via a white ribbon cable.

  9. Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards. Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards.
    • Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards.

  10. Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector. Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector.

  11. Remove the front case.
    • Remove the front case.

  12. With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller. With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller. With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller.
    • With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller.

  13. Use a Philipps screwdriver to remove the four 5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard.
    • Use a Philipps screwdriver to remove the four 5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard.

  14. Use your fingernail or a pair of tweezers to pry the LED light away from its slot. Set aside the LED light with its corresponding screw for reassembly. Set aside the LED light with its corresponding screw for reassembly.
    • Use your fingernail or a pair of tweezers to pry the LED light away from its slot.

    • Set aside the LED light with its corresponding screw for reassembly.

    You are not removing the 4 LEDs here, they are soldered on the board. You are only removing the light transporting plastic piece.

    Uncle BenZ - Yanıt

  15. Loosen the circuit board off the chassis by gently pulling at the bottom right corner. Lift the circuit board up to expose  its backside. Avoid using too much force when lifting the circuit board to prevent damaging the wires.
    • Loosen the circuit board off the chassis by gently pulling at the bottom right corner.

    • Lift the circuit board up to expose its backside.

    • Avoid using too much force when lifting the circuit board to prevent damaging the wires.

  16. Turn to the backside of the circuit board for clear access to the solder joints. Desolder all of the outlined solder joints.
    • Turn to the backside of the circuit board for clear access to the solder joints.

    • Desolder all of the outlined solder joints.

    • Remove the joystick module from the circuit board.

    • Refer to the following solder guide if necessary: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

    Bonjour,pour dessouder les joysticks, qu’avez-vous utilisez comme outil: de la tresse ou une pompe à dessouder ?

    Par avance merci.

    Patrick

    le hellegouarch - Yanıt

    J’ai utilisé une pompe, avec de bons résultats

    Brian - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

16 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Daniel Tagalog

Üyelik tarihi: 10-10-2019

969 İtibar

3 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

Takım

Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 üyesi

CPSU-REGAN-F19S11G2

5 Üyeler

31 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

12 Yorum

I managed to replace mine with much difficulty with the soldering but the stick does not seem to turn fully anymore, both with the replacement and the original. For reference, when I go to test it, it no longer registers as reaching the outer circle when pressed all the way down. Similarly when I go to calibrate it, it only reaches up til about the 2nd outer circle, not enough to actually trigger the green arrow. Since this seems to occur on both the replacement and original stick now, I’m guessing this must be some issue that arose while I was struggling with the desoldering process. Anybody have any ideas what might be causing my issue? Have I just damaged it beyond repair?

Tyler - Yanıt

Without pictures it is impossible to tell, but there is the possibility that you strips the metal connection on the solder point. This is fixable by “bridging” the connection. You will want to find schematics of the wiring for the PCB and then solder the wire over to the next connection.

As a side note, I should mention that I have never tried this on a controller of any sort and that I have only used this method on keyboards with single wire connections. It is possible that the connection in a controller PCB have more going on and that this technique will not work.

Gavin A -

I have the same problem, I buy 2 joystick module from iFixit and the two gave me the same issue, the joystick module don't reach the green arrow.

I can't calibrate because of that issue.

Any ideas?

Piero Grasso -

I have also had the same issue with replacement, only reaches roughly 75%. I contacted ifixit and they sent me a replacement thinking it might be a faulty pot, I installed the new stick and have the same issue. Maybe different years used different resistance.

marcos aguilera -

Excellent guide. Thank you. Saved me from having to buy a $70 controller.

One comment though, all the screws are actually Phillips #0 except for the grip screws, which are Phillips #00

Brian - Yanıt

I managed to repair a drifting stick input without any soldering by just replacing the potentiometer in the stick module. You can pry open the housing on the sides, swap it out (make sure it’s the right orientation), and snap it back into place. Potentiometers for Dualshock 4 analog sticks worked for me—apparently these parts are industry standard. Doing this from now on for all my drifty sticks.

Scott Baker - Yanıt

Hi Scott —

.

So, first off, thanks for the tip! Now, I realize I may be asking a bit much of you here, but, is there any chance you could post/take/fwd any pics of the (sub)procedure you describe? It’d be really helpful to have a reference like that before I tear into a functioning joystick — even if it has a sporadic (though no less infuriating for that) issue.

.

If that’s not feasible, then perhaps you know of and can post a link to a decent guide for doing so on any of the platforms that use these (apparently standard) items?

.

Thanks in advance for any help on this! :oD

anatinus -

Do you know how to correctly reassemble the grey piece in the picture?

First thought was something had snapped but after popping off the same piece from the other (working) thumbstick they seem to be identical and neither the part nor the socket seems damaged. I also can’t see any evidence of glue.

The problem is I can’t get the part to clip back into place - it is supposed to sit flush and taught without any movement when the stick is rotated. But no matter how I reapply it I can’t clip it into place.

https://i.imgur.com/mFOQEUy.jpg

Casey - Yanıt

After doing this. I lost charging capabilities and the capability to even plug it into a PC. Any advice will be beneficial.

Jose Godoi - Yanıt

I think the grip screws are JIS #00 which would make sense since this is made in Japan.

jorach - Yanıt

After replacing my analog with one from iFixIt I am only getting about half range on my analog and cannot complete recalibration. I tried 2 analogs from iFixIt with the same issue. I replaced with the original and have full range again

Peter Roach - Yanıt

I destroyed some of the wiring, but measured connections on the other stick, and used a thin wire to re-wire the broken connection from top to bottom. Works great, even could calibrate it without issues. Unfortunately I broke the thick wires soldering that connects the battery, I’ll need some more delicate equipment to fix that one, until then it works fine when connected to power with cable.

Thraex Aquator - Yanıt

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