Giriş
If your iPhone 11 screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when powered on, use this guide to get your iPhone working again with a new screen assembly.
This guide is written for replacement screen assemblies with the metal LCD shield plate pre-installed. If your new screen does not include the plate, follow this guide instead to complete your repair.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the screen is paired to your individual iPhone at the factory, so you must transfer it carefully from your old screen to your new one using the instructions below. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID won’t work, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple’s “authorized” technicians can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality won’t work after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
Neye ihtiyacın var
-
-
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
-
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
-
-
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
-
-
-
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
-
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
-
-
Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Anti-Clamp$24.95
-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
-
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
-
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
-
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
-
Skip the next three steps.
-
-
-
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
-
-
-
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.
I have the same question
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
-
-
-
-
Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?
Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.
Tonynox -
-
-
-
Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
-
-
-
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
-
Prop the display up against something sturdy.
-
-
-
To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
-
-
Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
-
Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
-
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
-
-
-
Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
-
Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.
Pay attention.
내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?
Hast Du das Problem gelöst?
커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.
Hampter -
-
-
-
Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
-
-
-
Remove the display assembly.
After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)
Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.
-
-
-
Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
-
Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
-
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
Correct me if I am wrong but you no longer need to do this as of IOS 15.2 as apple doesnt disable Face ID on 3rd party repairs
-
-
-
Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
-
Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
-
-
-
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
-
-
-
Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
-
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
-
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
This step was a little bit confusing. I thought that the entire ribbon assm should be removed once the speaker was detached. The entire assm doesn’t actually come off until Step 30.
Be careful in the next few steps, as you can easily damage some parts. Make sure that you operate gently, and that you don't pull, twist or apply too much pressure on the components.
-
-
Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.
As you remove it, familiarise with its position. It will be hard to put it back into place. If you pay close attention to how it comes out, it will be easier to put it back
-
-
-
Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
-
-
-
Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
-
Proximity sensor
-
Flood illuminator
-
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
-
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
İptal et: Bu kılavuzu tamamlamadım.
115 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.
7 Yorum
Zu Schritt 13:
Was kann ich tun wenn die Metallplatte sich nicht aus dem Gehäuse löst?
Versuchen Sie, das Telefon beim zweiten Mal dort erneut aufzuwärmen, wo es in der Anleitung angegeben ist. Vielleicht versuchen Sie auch, Ihren iOpener für längere Zeit in der Mikrowelle zu erhitzen/zu erhitzen. Wenn das nicht funktioniert, überprüfen Sie, ob keine weiteren Schrauben entfernt werden müssen. Und das Letzte, was Sie versuchen könnten, wäre, ein paar andere Hebelwerkzeuge zu verwenden und/oder zu versuchen, es in einer anderen Richtung aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen.
During reassembly, is there a step in which I need to apply adhesive? (asking since you find adhesive as you disassemble)
Most often you will re-apply the adhesive to the new LCD assembly itself. Note that the part you will need is designed to provide waterproofing to the device. If you put the adhesive + waterproof seal onto the new LCD incorrectly then the device will not be waterproof. Note: I'm no qualified professional, and I'm only a 9th grader but I have lots of experience with this particular repair and I have almost mastered it.( I have fixed maybe 7 or 8 iPhone 11s alone) And in my experience, applying the new adhesive + seal to the new LCD assembly has always worked out great and resulted in a happy customer and good feedback.
flawless execution!
Will I still be able to use face id
the right screws wouldn’t come off
Yusef San Inocencio - Yanıt
ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!
Aisa Jawara -
Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!
danielaguirre93 - Yanıt
You can try this.
Quickly Press and release the volume up button.
then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.
then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.
worked for me :D
Benóný Egilson - Yanıt
Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?
Brian Baker - Yanıt
not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws
Aisa Jawara - Yanıt