iPhone XR Taptic Engine Replacement

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Press both suction cups firmly into place.

• If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

• Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

• If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

• Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

• Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

• The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
• Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

• Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

• Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws
• One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
• One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

Remove the bracket.

• Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

Remove the display assembly.

Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

• Three Phillips 1.4 mm screws
• Two Phillips 1.7 mm screws
• One Phillips 1.9 mm screw
• One Phillips 1.6 mm screw

Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

Remove the bracket.

Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Remove the Taptic Engine.