In its resting state, the pressure sensor should be continuous, which means the meter should read almost zero resistance.

If the meter shows a high resistance or no continuity, it could mean that the sensor contacts are dirty. Double-check your meter contacts and make sure they're grasping onto the wires.

Use a spudger or your finger to firmly press on the top of the sensor until it clicks.

The meter should change to show no continuity (0L, in my meter's case). If it doesn't, there is a potential electrical short—the contacts may be fused, or you may need to replace the sensor.

Here's a quick overview of the Instant Pot pressure sensors. Depending on your model, the components may differ slightly.

The T6L (low pressure) sensor and its connector. Some models may not have this.

The T6H (high pressure) sensor and its connectors.

These two "pressure sensors" are actually bimetal temperature switches. The Instant Pot uses these to estimate pressure using the [link|https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law|Ideal Gas Law|new_window=true].

Each sensor consists of metal strips. Normally, the strips touch each other, creating an electrical path.

Once the Instant Pot heats up, the strips heat up to the point where they flex apart, breaking the electrical circuit. The temperature they flex apart is governed by the metal they use, as well as calibration screws.

The screws underneath the white resin are calibration screws.

***Don't mess with these! ***They will change what temperature and pressure the Instant Pot turns off, and can result in inaccurate and dangerous cooking situations.

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