Ana içeriğe geç

Mid 2010 Model A1278 / 2.4 or 2.66 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

862 Soru Tümünü görüntüle

Mid-2010 13" Upgraded RAM/SSD/Battery now heating up

Hi,

I just recently upgraded my Mid-2010 MacBook Pro 13” to 16 GB of RAM (2x8 GB), as well as a 500 GB SSD and lastly, a new replacement battery (all new components).

I currently run High Sierra 10.13.6 on a 2.4 GHz processor. All upgrades went well (my first attempt - thanks to all for detailed videos!).

What I’`m experiencing now is a somewhat intermittent heating up of the upper left-hand corner, the magnetic DC power connector area, of the laptop. The heat (heating up) can cover approximately over 1/4 of the keyboard area (figure “ESC down to fn” and from approx. &7 and to near the space bar). Basically my left leg takes the heat.

My question is what could possibly be causing this intermittent heating.

I do not have any taxing programs running, just Firefox or Safari with at times, multiple tabs opened. Activity Monitor doesn’t show any culprits that I’m aware of (then again, I am still learning the ins/outs of A.M.).

I’m wondering if I should purchase and replace the MagSafe DC-In Board as well as the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody and MacBook 13" Unibody Fan. I mention the fan because it hasn’t kicked on recently when I had AM processes running over 162% CPU (MRT was the culprit - free version of Malware Bytes that I hadn’t fully deleted). I did go in remove the fan and gently cleaned the area (definitely had dust). My current magnetic power cord (original Apple) works and charges fully, no problem.

So to sum up:

  1. What could be causing this intermittent heating up of the upper left hand quadrant of the board (right now as I type this, things have cooled down)
  2. Should I be concerned or just monitor the situation until…
  3. Should I buy and replace one or both the MagSafe DC and the fan; and finally, if I do buy both, can I just buy the used fully tested parts on iFixit and are the used fully tested covered by the same warranty as new?

I was just hoping to keep my mid-2010 MBP running for a while longer (1 yr+) while I watch the new MBP market offerings.

Thanks in advance.

TG Pro Screen Shot:

Block Image

Update (08/08/2019)

Hi DAVID (whoops, not Dan) - Good timing. Was thinking I should post an update. So, I did install your suggestion of TG Pro which I purchased - I had to in order to get an actual status on the "Diagnostics" section of the app (although probably not the most revealing of detailed data I'm thinking). I'm going to post a screen shot of the "hottest" my MBP got. I have many screenshots over the last few weeks. In my quick estimate it seems to run hot in upper left section of laptop whenever I'm streaming any video content that is actively loading (stopping/starting). I continue to monitor with TG Pro and I *think* this may be the norm given that it is 9 yo. Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks.

BTW, the fan never kicks on with new replacement parts (RAM, SSD & battery). And yes, I have reset SMC since my original post. Maybe things are okay although still on battery sensor/northbridge learning curve.

  • TG Pro Screen Shot embedded in my original question (above). **
Yanıtlandı! View the answer Ben de bu sorunu yaşıyorum

Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Puan 0

Yorumlar:

Any luck? Dumb question: have you done the usual SMC reset, to make sure that the thermal controller parameters are all good? https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295

by

@dakworks Hi David - yes, I did reset SMC since posting my original query. Possibly that helped things a bit, that and using TG Pro. Just a note - the fan rarely kicked on in it's original state and has not kicked on since my installing replacement parts (RAM, SSD, battery). FYI.

by

Ok, here's a thought. It's possible that a thermal sensor has failed or was embedded in one of the parts that you removed. This was a known issue in the iMac series (I replaced a failed hard drive in mine), and the replacement kit required an external thermal sensor. Worth digging into.

It was Dan that recommended the TG Pro utility. No worries.

by

Hi David, thanks. Not sure where the thermal sensor is in 2010 MBP. I did recently swap out my old original (failing) HDD and installed a 500 gb SSD. Would the thermal sensor have been embedded in/near the original HDD and could it have been affected by installing the new SSD??

by

For the iMac, the sensor was embedded in the hard drive, and so replacement kits typically bundle an external sensor that hooks up to the same pins that the internal sensor would have been.

That said, your temperatures don't look too out of whack, EXCEPT I don't see a temperature for the hard drive, which is suspicious. So, here's another suggestion that you can use to control the problem as well as diagnose it:

. You can get it to run cooler at a slight power cost by running "Macs Fan Control" https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/47386/... which is actually pretty good. I'm running it now (I prefer to do that so I know what I'm talking about when I post!), and it shows temperature information for the drive.

by

Show 5 more comments

Yorum Ekle

Android Tamir Setleri

Yeni bir ekran veya pil, bir tamir kiti kadar yakınında.

Hemen Alışveriş Yapın

Android Tamir Setleri

Yeni bir ekran veya pil, bir tamir kiti kadar yakınında.

Hemen Alışveriş Yapın

2 Cevap

Filtre ölçütü:
Seçilen Çözüm

Who's SSD did you install?

I would install a good thermal monitoring app like TG Pro it will allow you to see more clearly what’s happening with your thermal load and the fans. Lets start there when you see the system getting warm take a snapshot of the main window making sure all of the sensors & fan are visible, post it here for us to see Adding images to an existing question

Update (08/30/2019)

Hi Mary,

The heat you are feeling in the top left corner is the DC-In board which if needed can be replaced. Often the contacts get damaged so the MagSafe’s power has to force its self through the build-up which then heats up the connector. Some heat is expected! It’s when it get overly warm we need to worry.

A common issue I see is fake chargers cause arcing which builds up carbon on the sockets pins. They should be gold in color and the plastic should be smooth and not melted.

Make sure you are using a real Apple charger and the chargers MagSafe cable & connector is not damaged as well.

References:

If you do need to replace the DC-In Board here’s the guide MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement

MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board Görseli

Ürün

MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board

$24,99

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Görseli

Kılavuz

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement

Zorluk:

Zor

45 minutes

iFixit Görseli

Kılavuz

Adding images to an existing question

Zorluk:

Çok kolay

2 - 5 minutes

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Puan 1

Yorumlar:

Hi Dan, I researched & purchased the following new parts from OWC:

1.) 16.0GB (2x 8GB) PC3-8500 DDR3 1066MHz SO-DIMM Memory Upgrade Kit for Mac mini 2010, MacBook 2010, & MacBook Pro 13" 2010 Models.

2.) OWC Express USB 3.0/2.0 + 500GB Mercury Electra 6GSolid-State Drive + OWC Express USB3

3.) NewerTech NuPower 65 Watt-Hour Replacement Battery for 13" MacBook Pro (2009 - 2012) with Non-Retina Display.

Looking at TG Pro now to install/monitor. FYI, never had a problem with the (original) fan; it seemed to kick on when appropriate (high processes running or not enough circulation under laptop if sitting on desk/table (btw, an inexpensive cookie cooling rack solved this problem!). Right now I’m running off of the battery (I tend to charge it up at night) and there is just a teeny, tiny slight noticing of heat compared to the rest of the laptop. Thanks for your help. I’ll be back with data from TG Pro.

by

Hi Dan - thanks again for the TG Pro suggestion. RE: DC-In board that replacement would be my last step and only if I had to do it (I reviewed the replacement tutorials/pics).

RE: chargers, I only use Apple products. I replaced my current 60W MagSafe Adapter 4 yrs ago (8/2015 at Apple Store) but now wondering if this current MagSafe adapter is hitting it's life limit because it tends to get hot (as it is now). I cleaned around the DC-In board (external) pins. Some residue but nothing major. I'm wondering if I should purchase a new adapter or is there a way to test the health of the adapter? Could this current adapter be the culprit? At the moment, the upper left-hand quadrant of keyboard is cool (my MBP had been shut-down for an hour).

I generally connect the MagSafe adapter to the 3-pronged Apple-purchased extension cord and plug that into an older but still functional power strip (I keep all of my electronics on power strips). Upon thinking, I have noticed the MagSafe adapter being hot to touch. Thanks.

by

You should be using a surge suppressor or UPS as a power strip has no protections within it. You also should check the outlet you are using as a mis-wired outlet or one that does not offer proper ground can also cause odd behavior.

If the power adapter cords are in good shape no cuts or bulging and the MagSafe connector is OK then you should be fine.

by

@danj Okay, will look into getting updated surge suppressor or UPS - I now see the difference between those choices and the common usage of "power strip". Yes, the one outlet that I was using seemed a bit dodgy (little spark at times when plugging in). Thus, I won't use that one. Today when I wrote earlier I was actually at an entirely different location using only the MagSafe Adapter and the adapter was, in fact, heating up, feeling quite warm/hot. I don't think this is normal, correct? Again, my current MagSafe adapter is 4 years old - maybe it's time to replace it (again)?

by

If you feel the charger is in question get another unit directly from Apple. Don't chance getting a fake charger! My charger does get warm when I'm charging my battery (MagSafe is Amber) it doesn't get hot (so my warm maybe your hot here).

by

Show 1 more comment

Yorum Ekle
En Yararlı Yanıt

You did not mention about the battery. Did you install the after market battery or original battery? There are many sellers say “OEM” doesn’t mean their battery is properly made. I have seen many battery failed within a few days and machines over heated.

Make sure it is original battery only. Unplug the battery and boot it up with AC power to see if it heats up.

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Puan 1

Yorumlar:

Hi Truth Seeker - thanks for your info. I purchased all of my replacement parts at OWC and I'm assuming correctly (yes?) that they are as reliable in quality replacement parts as ifixit?? (I don't want to ruffle any feathers/start any wars here.). This is the battery I purchased new to replace my old/original mid-2010 MBP. It is a Newer Tech NuPower battery (an OWC battery):

NewerTech NuPower 65 Watt-Hour Replacement Battery for 13" MacBook Pro (2009 - 2012) with Non-Retina Display.

Heating is not a huge issue and is noted whenever I'm watching video content. As I mentioned above I've installed TG Pro to monitor the battery's health. My original concern was the MBP heating up in the upper left-hand quadrant of the laptop (near the Mag-Safe DC plug area). I just wanted to make sure nothing else was failing.

by

@kahgroos If you unplug the battery and use the same way to find out if it is the battery drawing high current that led to heat up the magsafe connector. Another possible guess is the LVDS connector and DC in jack are back to back at the same spot so it may cause the place to heat up.

If the heat is extreme, I suggest to run the diagnostic (ASD) and find out the hardware profile. It will show which part is drawing high current and which sensor is over heating.

Since I am not able to test the board physically, it is becoming a guessing game. Any name brand battery doesn't make it 100% okay. Better try and find out just for safe. I had a few battery failed on 15in models within a few weeks and clients were not happy but it is their decision to buy the battery instead of what we suggested. So, try unplug the battery and boot with DC supply to find out if it is still the same.

by

@freewill TS, thanks for the info. I'll compare unplugged battery to magsafe adapter. Not familiar with LVDS connector but will research. RE: ASD diagnostic, you are referring to AHD test, yes? If so, I can't run online diagnostics through standard means (and my original disks are filed away). I did run EtreCheck and it did bring up a kernel panic:

(cpu 1 caller 0xffffff8009965161): "TLB invalidation IPI timeout, unresponsive CPU bitmap: 0x1, NMIPI acks: 0x0, now: 0x0, deadline: 20

12918058"@/BuildRoot/Library/Caches/com.apple.xbs/Sources/xnu/xnu-4570 .71.46/osfmk/x86_64/pmap.c:2798

I've read that kernel panics may not necessarily be anything to "panic" about, that they could be triggered via innocuous changes. But I don't know how to interpret the above; just curious. Any thoughts?

RE: batteries. Yes, I've read many posts of people having purchased batteries that failed quickly. I tried to go with the best quality fit & not via name brand. I'm relatively new to this field so working my way through.

by

Yorum Ekle

Yanıtını ekle

Mary W sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
İstatistikleri Görüntüle:

Past 24 Hours: 1

Past 7 Days: 11

Past 30 Days: 32

Her zaman: 175