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Repair and disassembly guides and support for dish washing appliances.

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How do I test a kitchen aid kdtm354dss5 circulation pump

How do I test a kitchen aid dishwasher pump motor? There is a capacitor on one side and a two-prong plug on the other. The plug had zero ohms but when i unplug the capacitor and test the wires going into the motor I get 35 to 40 ohms

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Hi @fordpinto

You can't test a capacitor with an Ohmmeter as it won't pass DC current.

The best you can do using an Ohmmeter is to place the meter leads across the two capacitor terminals and check if the meter shows a reading that slowly increases and then reverse the leads and check if it shows the meter reading again. Basically you're measuring the meter charging and discharging the capacitor. Set the Ohmmeter to the highest resistance scale.

If the meter display registers nothing then the capacitor is faulty.

Looking online at images of the capacitor it is 19µF. If your DMM can measure capacitance and if it can measure >19µF you can try testing it that way.

The motor winding resistance seems wrong though. Looking at the tech sheet - see p.4 wash/rinse strip circuit, the run winding is 3-9 Ohms and the aux winding is 6-12 Ohms

If the capacitor and/or pump are faulty search online for W10753070 (capacitor) or W10902589 (pump) to find suppliers that suit you best.

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hey, I am trying to test the motor, not the capacitor. I unplugged the capacitor and tested the wires going into the motor and got 35 - 40 ohm. The capacitor is fine. The other side of the motor has a connector where it plugs into the rest of the wiring. I get nothing on that connector.

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@fordpinto

See the strip diagram as linked in the tech sheet.

As I said the resistance that you measured for the motor winding is wrong

The capacitor is used to increase the amount of AC current flow through the aux winding by reducing the impedance (AC resistance) of the winding. i.e. this increases the magnetic flux that is created so that the motor turns

It most probably can't turn on one winding only. It needs current to flow through both windings, at least to start anyway. This may be evidenced if you only hear the motor hum and not turn.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor and then disconnect the capacitor from the motor.

connect an Ohmmeter between the two motor terminals that were connected to the wiring harness and you should measure 3-9 Ohms.

Then connect the meter between the motor terminal to which the cable harness purple wire was connected and the connector that one of the capacitor terminals was connected to and you should measure 6-12 Ohms. If you measure 3-9 Ohms connect the meter to the motor terminal that the other capacitor lead was connected to and check if it is 6-12 Ohms. If you don't measure either of these resistances then whichever value resistance you don't see is indicating an open circuit motor winding, i.e. if reading only 3-9 ohms then the aux winding is open, if reading only 6-12 Ohms then the run winding is open.

How did you test the capacitor to know that it is OK? If it is open circuit to AC then the motor won't turn either

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@jayeff Thanks I have no reading at the wiring harness side and 30 -40 at the capacitor side. So I think that the harness side is faulty? I followed online instructions to test the capacitor. It had a small spark when I crossed it to discharge it and it had been disconnected for several days. I figure its good but Ill buy the complete unit if the motor is bad.

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@fordpinto

Connecting directly across the motor terminals where the harness cable plugs into (with it removed) and the capacitor disconnected should allow you to test the run winding of the motor. It is 3-9 Ohms

getting a spark is a good sign in at least that the capacitor isn't open circuit or short circuit.

The wash motor is part # W10713292 and it comes with the capacitor, although you can buy the capacitor separately if it was the problem and just replace it. (part #W10753070)

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so I have no reading at the harness plug with the capacitor disconnected. Ill look for a new motor. Thanks for your help.

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If you are reading zero (0) Ω, that is a dead short. I don't think I believe that especially since you are reading 35-40 on the motor and you didn't say you had magic smoke. This may help.

The pump itself is a more likely problem. If you can apply voltage to the plug, that will tell you if it is running.

DO IT CAREFULLY!!! YOU ARE HANDLING LETHAL VOLTAGE WIRES.

Secure the motor first as it will move if it starts.

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the plug is where it connects to the rest of the machine. I get nothing at that connector. I did try powering the connector and got no movement at all both with and without the capacitor connected on the other side.

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