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Identified by WDT750SAHV, WDT750SAHW and WDT750SAHB.

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Whirlpool WDT750SAHV - Incomplete cycle and potential motor issue

Edit : The issue was resolved by deeply cleaning the circulation pump, which I had to dismantle. I also took the opportunity to clean the drainage pump and the turbidity sensor. Thank you for your help!



I am reaching out for some guidance on my Whirlpool dishwasher, model WDT750SAHV, which has been showing some inconsistent behavior lately. I have observed a few issues and conducted some preliminary diagnostics:

  • Initially, I noticed that the detergent tablets were not dissolving completely, and there was some residual moisture inside. Currently, only the 1hr wash cycle seems to function properly.
  • With standard programs (e.g., Normal), I hear the drain engage, water enter, and then a long period of silence. It seems like the dishwasher thinks it's washing because I eventually hear the soap dispenser open. However, there are extended periods of silence, intermittent sounds of water, and at the end, some dishes are still slightly wet.
  • I managed to run the diagnostic mode, which returned error 4-3. While I couldn't find the tech sheet for my specific model, a similar model's tech sheet (WDT790SAYM) suggests this might indicate an issue with the wash motor (not running). This is puzzling because the 1hr wash program appears to operate normally.
  • During diagnostics, I hear a sound that seems to indicate the motor is trying to start but might be obstructed.
  • I have cleaned the turbidity sensor, filters, and checked for any obstructions.
  • The heating element seems to function as it gets very hot during drying (sometimes).
  • I plan to repair it myself and have considered ordering the "Pump and Motor Assembly W11087376" but the part is quite expensive, and I want to exhaust all other possibilities first.
  • There was an incident of water leaking from the door during a cycle, which I promptly stopped. I'm concerned about whether this could have affected the electrical components, although issues with the dishwasher existed before this incident.

Given these observations, I would greatly appreciate any advice or suggestions on further troubleshooting steps before proceeding with purchasing new parts. Could there be an underlying issue I might be overlooking?

Thank you for your time and assistance!

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Hi @benoitm

Given that it works OK when in the 1 hour wash cycle mode then it could be a control board problem.

Perhaps inspect the board for any corrosion problems and also that the cable harness connections are also clean and corrosion free.

Here's the tech sheet for your model. On p.2→p.3 it describes how to remove the control assembly.

On p.6 there's a strip circuit diagram of the wash motor operate circuit which makes it easier to inspect the wiring connections etc for the motor circuit. Although given that the 1 hour wash cycle works OK (every time?) it seems to be OK

If you find a faulty part, here's a link to a parts supplier that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the diagrams, to find the manufacturer's part number for the part listed with it. Search online for the manufacturer's part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

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Thank you so much for the tech sheet! The idea of checking the control board is a good one, and I've received my multimeter. I'll be conducting the necessary checks to see if I can pinpoint any issues.

Regarding the 1hr wash program, I feel it's not functioning fully because I still have issues with the detergent pods, even though I've been using the same ones for years without any problems before (plus, I always clean the dispenser area before my tests to ensure there's no moisture or residue). This is why I'm wondering if it might be something else. I remain doubtful because I know the 1hr wash isn't a highly effective program, and I often still find residue on some of my dishes (and I purposely don't overload it in this mode).

I'll report back here as soon as I've completed the checks. Thanks a lot!



Re-post your images in your question on ifixit Here's how to do this on ifixit Adding images to an existing question

Try running a cycle and measure the voltage on the wash motor terminals to see what it is when it should be operating but it isn't -see p.6 for the circuit details.

Be safety aware as the motor operates at 120V AC


Hello @jayeff, I've started to inspect the control board and noticed some suspicious traces on a particular cable, as well as on the board itself. I've set up a link to share the photos I've taken. Should I consider replacing the control board because of these marks?



I was replying at the same time that you posted so read please read my comment above




The 4 wire white cable with the burn/scorch/discoloured patch on them, try separating the wires so that they're not touching each other and then check if ti works OK.

What plug connector are they connected to?

At least that way it may be able to be found what they're for.


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Here's a thought. Don't know this DW at all but if it is an older model that has a mechanical mode switch with a small synchronous motor driving contact blades via a cam, then the problem may lie there. Why I think so is that was the fault with my old Speed Queen washing machine that failed to complete a spesific cycle. The reason being that contact blades were so eroded that they no longer made electrical contact to complete the cycle. Being a mechanical switch I could advance the cycle manually by turning the control knob by hand. My local domestic supply & repair shop could refurbish the timer. But this answer is academic however if yours is an electronic model.

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Thanks for your input. I think my appliance is too recent to have a mechanical mode switch. I will try to read the tech sheet that @jayeff provided to see if that's a possibility, and if so, I will perform that check. It's true that the appliance was not in use for a while (about a year, though it did work afterwards for a year and a half without any issues) and if there were any water residues around those blades, it could have caused corrosion.


Just occurred to me: If digitally controlled the timing/program circuit usually works on low power while motors and valves at mains power. Which means that the latter will be indirectly activated via electro-mechanical relays and solonoids that can switch or use heavy currents. They are easy to bench test. It can however be that iso relays, solid state switches (SCRs/thyristors/quadracs, power transistors, etc) are used to directly control the heavy currents and will be mounted on the control board - a wiring diagram will show this.

In that case, suspect the pic (pre-programmed ic) that controls the various cycles. To test the ic requires measuring equipment that can read ic pin outputs (for which you must obtain the ic's datasheet) as well as a pulse (switching) diagram.

If you're not into electronic repair yourself I suspect the repair shop will try ans sell the complete control board for replacement.


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