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The March 2015 update of Apple's 13" MacBook Pro Retina Display, model A1502, features fifth-generation Intel Core i5 and i7 processors and introduces the Force Touch trackpad.

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A1502 not receiving power all throughout motherboard except DC inboard

This laptop has been dead for years and a friend brought it to me to see if I can fix it. He said it randomly died one day, the laptop doesn't charge, doesn't power up and is practically a expensive brick.

At first I noticed some weird colouring on the DC inboard as if it had sustained heat damage, but decided to keep searching. The motherboard has 0 visual defects and is practically pristine, I checked the SMC chip and other important components visually and saw nothing. After measuring components with a multimeter with the charger plugged in I noticed that the entire motherboard has no electricity running through it at all except on the 5 pin connector of the DC inboard which read 16 volts when the battery was connected and 14 when the battery wasn't connected.

Aside from that I got slightly shocked right above the battery connector while both the laptop and battery were plugged in but the multimeter still showed 0 voltage readings in that location.

I'd love to fix this laptop, any help is appreciated.

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First off I would check the charger and its cords. If you are not seeing voltage on the logic board beyond the DC inboard and yet got a shock tells be you have a hot chassis ground. A knock off charger can cause this and as I’m suspecting you are not seeing the Amber or Green MagSafe cord LED may also include a bad DC inboard MagSafe connector where the middle one wire comm connection is not mating. I would try a second charger and replace the DC in board.

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Did that, and since the DC inboard is burnt anyway I thought I'd want to replace it. But I cant seem to find the right model online unless I don't know how there sorted by apple themselves. My DC inboard has 820-3584 A 2015 C written on it and I tried to find that but the only ones I could find (for the a1502 model ofc) didn't have that exact same code on it. They look the same but I doubt they are the same, I'd love to be proven wrong though.

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@x4leeb - This is the needed part MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2013-Early 2015) MagSafe 2 DC-In Board don’t be confused by the board number which is the trace layout. Apple (and others) often rev a board either to improve manufacturing or encounter a problem. Also the ink stamps is the vendor and/or lot ID during manufacturing.

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Great. I'll order one tomorrow. I'll update you when it gets here and I install it. Thanks!

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Okay. After installing the DC inboard, the magsafe still has no red light on it. But I do get a steady 16v on the DC inboard's 5pin connector and a 3.37-3.45v reading on the batterys input on the motherboard. Aside from that I am pretty sure I am only getting readings right around the SMC chip and that's it. Power isn't being distributed anywhere else from the SMC. Faulty SMC chip? I've seen no corrosion or dirt or anything under it as far as I can tell.

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@x4leeb - At this point you have a deeper logic board failure. You’ll need the schematics and board view drawings for the system to trace out the power rail circuit. I rarely encounter a blown fuse but that’s an easy check. I’m suspecting you have a shorted out component like a cap or chip. Carefully review under a good magnifier for burnt off color or odd bumps on a component. Having the schematics and board view drawings can help here besides a good meter.

I wouldn’t be to quick to assume SMC here, while I’ve replaced a few chips I’ve more often found the input line signal was the issue or liquid spill damage.

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@x4leeb you have not told us what components and where you have checked nor have you told us what 820-xxxx number your logic board is. It would also be good to know more about this"if it had sustained heat damage". what kind of heat damage?

Since you do get power from your Magsafe, you want to check your DC in fuse. You can check it for power when you have your MagSafe plugged in and show power on the connector or you can check it for continuity.

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Now, I am making the assumption you have the logic board out of the chassis so you can actually check the circuits. Also, you do have a fairly decent multimeter and know how to check basic components. If so, you do want to post some large, well focused pictures of both sides of your logic board with your Question. That way we can see what you see and hopefully guide you all the way through.

Adding images to an existing question

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Try @danj solution 1st and if that didn't solve the power issue then you'll need to dig deeper and follow the wisdom from @oldturkey03. If so then the early 2015 MBP Retina Board Number should be 820-4924 which can be downloaded from here. You'll need the board viewer software from FlexBV and the schematics. Hope that helps!

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I could do that but I'm not familiar with circuit schematics at all. I feel like I'm looking at a lost ancient language when I look at circuits like that. So as you said I'll try the first solution as it's inexpensive and pretty easy. But for the 2nd one I'll really need to be walked through it all.

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@x4leeb I am sure someone can help you on that, I am in the same league as you with schematics but am learning it very slowly, failing that, it would save a technician with the skills some time to find the files I pointed to as he will know what to do with them ;)

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