Giriş
Use this guide to replace your trackpad or remove it for adjustment.
Neye ihtiyacın var
Videoya Genel Bakış
-
Bu adımda kullanılan alet:P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air$5.99
-
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
-
Two 9 mm screws
-
Eight 2.6 mm screws
-
-
-
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
-
Remove the lower case and set it aside.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
-
-
-
Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.
I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.
When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!
After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.
The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)
It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.
There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.
Gyandev -
What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?
Yep, exactly the issue that I have
Unscrew the battery first, then let the cable flex out a little. Use a spudger or small pick to push the connector out from the board.
Nathan -
Where can i buy the battery connector?
Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?
-
-
-
Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
-
Three 6.9 mm T5 Torx screws
-
Two 3.0 mm T5 Torx screws
what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?
There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case
Hello,
the battery is now delivered with a transparent plastic taped allover the new battery.
is it needed or shall it be removed
kind regards
Hello,
If the plastic is easily removable from the battery, it should be removed. However, if the plastic is glued onto the battery, do not remove the plastic.
The centre screw (of the three 6.9mm T5 described above) seems to be a bit thicker diameter than the other two corner (6.9mm screws - although I don't have a tool to make precise measurement). Replace this thicker screw to its centre position on the battery.
Not having a T5 bit, and somewhat dismayed at needing such an odd size of a familiar driver, I found aT6 bit worked fine for me...
I accidently broke off a 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw the one that goes in the center of the battery. Is it a big deal if all the other screws are in place holding the battery as well at the back end case? It seems secure but a piece of the screw that broke off is stuck in the center, and I can’t take it out to replace it with a new one. Is it a big deal? I powered on the computer and the battery is working at 39% to start
-
-
-
-
Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
-
Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
-
If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.
Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?
@albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.
1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate
2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?
The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.
After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.
I found these two little broken tabs under the battery. Not sure where they came from, but Ididn’t put them back in anywhere.
These are from the old battery. Not totally necessary.
Good opportunity to blow or brush away some accumulated dust from a unit like mine (5 -6 years service) when the battery is out. Also at this time, used the thin probe tool to ream out some debris from the rim of the base.
The replacement battery cable seemed too long to fit well but when I examined the original, I noted a distinct v kink downwards in that one. A gentle push down in the middle formed a V and permitted the new cable to fit Presumably without harm..
The instructions on this step say to remove the plastic film on the replacement battery, but the introduction says to leave it on. Which step is correct?
Hi William!
Good question! If the film is lightly adhered, you can peel and remove the film.
Hi how can I discharge the battery (MacBook air 2017) quickly as the battery has swollen and I need to get it out, at the moment I am running lots of apps but it still shows 6%?
max screen brightness and run some cpu benchmark
Shorting the battery is very dangerous. Leave the computer on until it shuts down on its own.
Good morning, I just replaced my first battery. The light on the magnet is red now. Will that color change to green to inform me that it is fully charged? Thanks, Julie
Re: leaving it unplugged for 5 hours after the battery goes flat - isn't that a bad thing? I thought Li-ion batteries get damaged by letting them go completely flat?
I have the same question, but from what i read the battery is still on 10% when the mac shuts down (to keep the battery healthy, so the 0% on the mac display is actually not the real battery charge)
Does anyone know what the four white (or red) dots on the underside of the battery mean?
Those are the liquid damage detectors. If they are red it means liquid has gotten into them. Always a bad sign
I've got a problem with the second MBA 2017 I did a battery replacement on. Replaced the battery, charged to 100%. Drained the battery and waited 5+ hours. Now it's stuck on 1% and won't charge. I've tried SMC reset by opening it up again, disconnect the new battery, hold the power button for 5 sec, connect the battery again but without any luck. Any suggestions?
Seems like a power cycle fixed the issue (turning the computer off, unplugging the MagSafe, holding the power button for 10 sec, plugging MagSafe back in).
Installing and conditioning the new battery was a breeze with your instructions and tool. But I get a message saying the date/time was set incorrectly. I could not reset it using the date/time in system preferences and the laptop was running hot with the fan running at full blast. Instead I had to shut it down and restart it in safe mode by pushing the shift button when I heard the start up chime and releasing it when the Apple logo appeared. Once in safe mode the date/time was correct and I restarted in normal mode. It's all good now. iFixit's comments allude to chip dependent issues and your should look at their detailed comments if you are having issues on restart after install. Thanks for a great product!
-
-
-
Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
-
Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.
If you are newer at repair, use the new part to practice flipping the retaining clips. This can help before moving on to the real one.
-
-
-
While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
-
Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.
the trickiest step on re-assembly is reinserting this back-folded cable into the socket and then making sure the retaining flap (now hidden) is firmly down again. You can tell if it is still up (and so the cable loose) if the cable does not feel flat when you run your finger lightly over it.
If it will not “plug” back in do you have to buy a whole new keyboard? I have pretty good eyes and magnifying glass and headlamp and my keyboard just won’t work anymore. This thing must have detached when I was putting in a battery. I was happy to see the thing here but disappointed because now my keyboard will not work because I can’t tell what’s wrong. It seems plugged in but won’t work! Does that mean I have to buy a new keyboard? I’d really like to know.
A magnifying glass and bright light can help immensely in this step. The retaining flap is tiny and difficult to see while the cable is still connected.
Dick, do you have a suggestion for a magnifying glass/light set up? I used a magnifying glass and a small flashlight. But found that the job required two hands so it was hard to see while I was trying to do it. I thought about ordering the magnifying glasses sold here but don’t know how well they work.
A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.
This is where I had a problem. Part of the plastic retaining flap broke off. Now my trackpad, which had a problem, is working but about half the keys on my keyboard, which was working before, aren’t. I don’t know whether its because I damaged this cable connections in the attempts to seat it earlier or whether not having the pressure on one half of it is causing the connection to not be made with a number of the keys. Since my keyboard had worked with my old trackpad and the socket clamp isn’t broken on that, I was thinking of attaching it to see if clamping the cable down properly will solve the problem. But of course then my trackpad wouldn’t work anymore. But it might tell me that I have to replace the trackpad again with one with a working clamp (retaining flap?) to make the keyboard work. And then I am back with dealing with troublesome trackpad screws. I can use an external keyboard but since I wanted to be able to use this laptop for traveling, that’s not my preference. Any thoughts???
Use a small strip of electricians tape on one end fold it over to make a pull tab, then place on the ribbon cable so you can pull the ribbon into the slot.
Most of the time the latch clip can be refitted in if you haven’t broken it in half. The system won’t work correctly without it!
Dan -
Hi Dan, I did, unfortunately, break the latch clip. Only about a third of it is left- the other 2./3rds broke off completely. From what you said that is the most likely explanation why certain keys ( 3,e,d,c,6,y,h,n,space bar and /) don’t work. I had wondered if I might have damaged the cable connections when I was trying to get them into the slot earlier (not realizing there was a retaining clip down.) If it is the clip, then the answer seems to be to replace the trackpad again. Which would be no problem if the screws weren’t so bad. But am worried that I will never be able to get all the screws out and new ones screwed in properly. But maybe worth a try. Any suggestions?
Have no magic here…
Somehow you need to replace the latch. Getting a replacement part is one way, the other is looking for a broken system to steal the latch off of carefully removing it without breaking it, then popping it on your systems connector.
Dan -
Dan, that’s a great idea. I have my old Apple trackpad and the piece is still intact on that. It hadn't occurred to me that I might be able to take it off and put it on the cable on the new trackpad. Thanks for the suggestion!
I do not think there is a latch to be opened.
Both the logic board and the trackpad connectors use a compression bar (latch). When you have it in the open state its ZIF but to secure the cable you need to close the latch to hold the cable and make the needed electrical connection Trackpad Flex Connector
Dan -
Yes there is a latch towards the back of the connector, opposite of where the cable enters the connector. It is very thin. Opens from back to front.
There are two versions of the connector depending on the trackpad and logic board. Yours should be like the one I posted.
The other one is more like this one Keyboard Connector
Dan -
A video that shows how this thing unplugs and plugs back in would be helpful. It just looks like a piece of black tape. I had no idea there were tiny prongs that have to be plugged in. Now my keyboard doesn’t work.
I was looking at these instructions because while I was following your battery replacement instructions I accidentally unplugged this thing.
Your instructions on how to plug it back in font show anything at all.
-
-
-
Remove the following twelve screws:
-
Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.
-
Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad.
I have a Macbook Air early 2013 A1466 Model. These are not PH00 screws in my case— like not even close. i am going by a jewelry store. Maybe, it is the case for the US version. Not working for this German model. Just FYI. Or perhaps you know as you are leaving the ph00 out of the description here and are just referencing the 1,6 mm.
Actually I went and got a phillips ph00 1,6 now specifically: screws up the screws. Doesnt work as many are saying on youtube. But whats the right screwdriver then??
So how did you do it after all?
Same problem, can't find a tiny enough screwdriver
I also had problems with the screws. Started out using the PH00 screwdriver and the screwheads were being stripped. Switched to the PH 000 as suggested by the commenter above and it still stripped screws (ones that hadn’t been touched before). Finally gave up, put the screws I had managed to get out back in (surprisingly they screwed back in without much difficulty), and put everything back together without being able to replace the trackpad. Luckily the computer worked but still having to use an external mouse to click. It seems that the screws for the trackpad are very soft and the heads strip easily. Not sure what to do at this point.
Apple uses a thread sealer which makes it hard! I first try a little bit of some acetone around the base of the screw dripping a little down letting spork and adding a bit more as it evaporates. When that fails I reach for my small nozzle heat gun as I want to focus the heat just to the head of the screw using foil to protect the rest of the area.
Dan -
I had an easy time with the JIS000 screwdriver bit I have so if you have one, give it a try.
What is a JIS000 screwdriver and where do I find one?
JIS is japan Industrial Standard which sets a standard for both screws and the tools needed for them.
Here’s one set iFixit - JIS Driver Set
Dan -
screw JM-CRV J000
The brackets on mind had stripped screws a d are now broken. Anyone know where I can buy those brackets?
I went ahead and ordered the iFixit - JIS Driver Set on Lareina’s recommend here, and only 6 of the 12 screws came up with it. It started to strip the upper six. They are all, after all, 1.6 mm, and the smallest driver on the JIS driver set (not recommended BTW) is 2.0mm) so that was useless advice. so back to square one, weeks waiting to get this thing installed!
In my case, I had just that one last screw that was stripped - and what I was able to do to remove it was to wriggle the bracket to get the screw to move free - which then made it much easier to unscrew it with a PH000 bit even though it was stripped. I was able to duplicate the process 2 more times (so 3 total) working on 2x MacBook Airs.
I haven’t tried anything else - where I was just about to break out my Dremel to turn the screw into a chisel tip (high risk given all the metal dust flying about) or wear out the edges to make it easier for me to use side cutters or pliers to grasp the edges and remove it…
When reassembling, I had to gently lift the replacement track pad up with the spudger on the keyboard side to get the bracket screws to align with the trackpad.
-
-
-
Remove the right and left trackpad brackets from the upper case.
-
-
-
The 1.4 mm T5 Torx screw near the front edge of the case must be adjusted correctly.
Help I stripped it can't get the screw out
And it didn't go in easy either
I needed to tighten the set screw a bit farther than I expected to get the click action of the replacement trackpad to feel right. With everything reassembled, except for the final outer bottom cover, I made slight adjustments to the set screw and then flipped over the macbook to test the actual click pressure. Did this a few times to get it set up properly and then secured the bottom cover to complete the job.
Step 10 shoud´nt be on this guide, it´s misleading, not necesary at all to change the trackpad nor to clean it; first 2 comments on this step, "i screw the screw" (pun very intended)
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
-
Remove the trackpad from the upper case.
I suggest leaving the brackets attached to the trackpad until after removing the trackpad from its recess, and then attaching the brackets to the new trackpad before replacing it in the recess. Otherwise, the loose trackpad will drop onto the screen.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
İptal et: Bu kılavuzu tamamlamadım.
39 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.
11 Yorum
Hi,
I have replaced the keyboard of my MacBook Air, now touchpad and keyboard stop work after login.
It does not works even in single mode nor with install drive.
Can anyone tell me why this happened?
PS. I also changed all the upper case with touch and keyboard and same issue.
It does work with external devices.
I am in a similar situation, I recently replaced the trackpad on my MacBook Air and I am having the same problem with the trackpad and keyboard working fine during login, but it stops working after boot.
Did you find a solution? Is there a way to fix this?
Hi,
I replaced my touchpad of my macbook air 2013. Now The touchpad functions partly in the beginning. It moves nothing to bad in the beginning, but after 5 minutes it works well. I checked the cables, but they seem to be plugged in fine, especially if they seem to work after 5 minutes. What could this be?
P.S. I used the old brackets of the trackpad for the new one. I was wondering what the function was of the connection between the bracket and the small circuit board and if that could be the problem.
Hello! I was able to remove the six screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad. But the six screws securing the trackpad to the upper case are just stuck! No matter how much pressure I apply, they won’t give. Can someone help?
Are you able to sneak the trackpad out at all? I’ve been able to push the trackpad out along the upper edge and then swing the bottom edge out in some. Otherwise you’ll need a heat gun to heat the area and use the proper screwdriver which you have chilled with freeze spray so it can cause the screw to contract.
Dan -
Hey thank you so much for the guide, although it was used fix a faulty keyboard. Much appreciated!
Did someone face an issue when the replaced touchpad works partially like I can't select text or move windows, and that physical click that makes this clicking sound also does not work, but if I gently touch the touchpad, without doing a click, it works.
A common issue! Along the front edge of the trackpad hollow is an adjustment screw. Which sets the click plate set. In a quite room you can hear the blister depress in your case the screw is to tight so it’s already depressed. You’ll need to turn it counter clockwise. Go slow! No more than a quarter of a turn until you hear the click and a little more.
Dan -
Thank you for the guide Sam! Managed to fix my partners macbook using this guide. Much appreciated!
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Yanıt
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Yanıt
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Yanıt
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Yanıt
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Yanıt
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Yanıt
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Yanıt
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Yanıt
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Yanıt
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Yanıt
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Yanıt
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Yanıt
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Yanıt
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Yanıt
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Yanıt
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Yanıt
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Yanıt
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Yanıt
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Yanıt
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Yanıt
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Yanıt
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Yanıt
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Yanıt
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Yanıt
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Yanıt
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Yanıt
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Yanıt
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Yanıt
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Yanıt
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - Yanıt
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - Yanıt
Is it possible to change an upper case with a german keyboard for an english one?
Rogerio Pefi - Yanıt
if you are intending to change it to British layout you don't need to change the keyboard at all, just the keys, buy either a set of a1466 key caps ( I assume you have a 2017 MacBook Air?) or a cheap a1466 keyboard (can even be a broken one), remove the keys that are different and replace them with the other keycaps, and then set the macbook's language to British and you are set
Kai Mcpherson -