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Use this guide to remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro. This is best done with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit; the liquid adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. Alternatively, you can use an iOpener to apply a modest amount of heat in order to soften the adhesive before prying out the battery.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.

If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold), click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Yanıt

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Yanıt

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Yanıt

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Yanıt

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Yanıt

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Yanıt

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Yanıt

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Yanıt

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - Yanıt

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - Yanıt

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Yanıt

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Yanıt

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Yanıt

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Yanıt

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Yanıt

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Yanıt

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - Yanıt

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Yanıt

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Yanıt

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Yanıt

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - Yanıt

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Yanıt

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - Yanıt

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Yanıt

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Yanıt

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Yanıt

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Yanıt

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Yanıt

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Yanıt

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Yanıt

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Yanıt

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Yanıt

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Yanıt

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Yanıt

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Yanıt

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Yanıt

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  6. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Yanıt

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Yanıt

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Yanıt

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - Yanıt

  7. Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.
    • Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

  8. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  9. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Yanıt

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - Yanıt

  10. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Yanıt

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Yanıt

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - Yanıt

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - Yanıt

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  12. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case. Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.
    • Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

  13. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  14. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case. Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.
    • Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - Yanıt

  15. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board. Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Yanıt

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Yanıt

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Yanıt

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Yanıt

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Yanıt

  16. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Yanıt

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Yanıt

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

  17. Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Yanıt

  18. Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.
    • Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.

    • Your specific unit may only have one screw securing the battery's circuit board to the frame.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - Yanıt

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - Yanıt

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - Yanıt

    What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

    dfreeman110 -

    I wish to ask the same question.

    vbivanov -

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - Yanıt

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - Yanıt

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - Yanıt

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - Yanıt

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - Yanıt

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - Yanıt

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - Yanıt

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - Yanıt

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - Yanıt

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - Yanıt

  19. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    This would be a good 1st step before you even start? easier then?

    martha - Yanıt

    I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

    Jim Turney - Yanıt

  20. If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped. Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.
    • If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped.

    • Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  21. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - Yanıt

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - Yanıt

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - Yanıt

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  22. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    • Use more adhesive remover if needed, but do not apply more than a few drops at a time. Using too much can allow the adhesive remover to make its way to the backside of your keyboard and potentially damage it.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - Yanıt

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - Yanıt

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - Yanıt

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - Yanıt

  23. If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point. Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.
    • If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

    • Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.

    • After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - Yanıt

    I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

    Jennifer Myer - Yanıt

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - Yanıt

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - Yanıt

  24. Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two. Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.
    • Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

    • Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

    • When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - Yanıt

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - Yanıt

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - Yanıt

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - Yanıt

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - Yanıt

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  25. Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case. Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.
    • Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

  26. Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell: Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.
    • Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

    • Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

    • Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

  27. Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case. If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells. Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.
    • Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

    • If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

    • Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

  28. Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case. Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.
    • Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    • Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

  29. Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.
    • Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

    • In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

  30. To separate the adhesive securing the final two, middle battery cells, apply a few more drops of liquid adhesive remover (or your iOpener) to each cell. Apply the adhesive remover sparingly, since the trackpad lies beneath this area of the battery.
    • To separate the adhesive securing the final two, middle battery cells, apply a few more drops of liquid adhesive remover (or your iOpener) to each cell.

    • Apply the adhesive remover sparingly, since the trackpad lies beneath this area of the battery.

    • It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

    • Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - Yanıt

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - Yanıt

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - Yanıt

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - Yanıt

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - Yanıt

  31. Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case. Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.
    • Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

  32. By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case. Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.
    • By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.

    • Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - Yanıt

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

  33. Remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - Yanıt

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - Yanıt

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - Yanıt

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - Yanıt

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - Yanıt

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - Yanıt

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - Yanıt

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - Yanıt

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - Yanıt

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - Yanıt

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .

Thx

david - Yanıt

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - Yanıt

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.

Thanks

Jaeger - Yanıt

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - Yanıt

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - Yanıt

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - Yanıt

Very useful guide.

office - Yanıt

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - Yanıt

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - Yanıt

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - Yanıt

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - Yanıt

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - Yanıt

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - Yanıt

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

笑得像个300斤的孩子 - Yanıt

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - Yanıt

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - Yanıt

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - Yanıt

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - Yanıt

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - Yanıt

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - Yanıt

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - Yanıt

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - Yanıt

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - Yanıt

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - Yanıt

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - Yanıt

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - Yanıt

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - Yanıt

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - Yanıt

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

took me 45 minutes and I did not purchase any of the tools or fluid, just used lolly sticks and patience, Brough the battery from china for £30 with the special screwdrivers needed.

james essex - Yanıt

Thank you Sam, again. I replaced this battery yesterday in my son’s computer. It was my “practice” before daring to touch my own computer. It went without a glitch. This is a clear and comprehensive guide. I am a 67 yo retired accountant and had never done anything like this before. Today I did my computer (early 2013) again with no problems. I feel empowered!

maria longo - Yanıt

Thank you, just changed the battery using ifixit’s kit. Only problem i have is that i have tried to follow the instruction to calibrate the battery however, when my mac got to 15% it went to sleep and I had to connect the power cord. I tried to disconnect it again and it went again to sleep. So I can’t really follow the calibration guide since the computer doesn’t turn off because it runs out of battery, instead it goes to sleep.

Max Ime - Yanıt

Reseted the smc seems to work fine now. Also, i’ve used a different method to replace the battery which seemed much easier to me. I have used a string as a saw instead of the provided cards. I was able to smoothly and quickly remove each cell

Max Ime -

It was pretty easy to follow the guide; everything went well.

Zsolt Safrany - Yanıt

Hi all. I changed the battery, most difficult was remove battery. When I start the laptop I noticed the trackpad doesn’t work, fun is working quickly ( since first minute and even cold) and everything run slowly. Do you know what can I do?. many thanks

Niko Las - Yanıt

Worked perfectly! However looking at the design of the laptop looks like it’s not necessary to remove all the components like the guide tell you to do, the battery can be disconnected at step 2!

is there a reason why everything must be removed before removing the battery? Is it the danger of acetone affecting the electronic components?

Amritaansh Verma - Yanıt

I just replaced the battery, It was a &&^&^$^ anxiety driven process. The screws that came with the battery were the hardest to deal with but I kinda said &&^& it and left it alone. The acetone is terrifying but with paper towels and working very slowly it was possible to get the battery out, the glue out and not experience any issues. Keyboard is fine, I’m waiting now to charge then kill the replacement. Will update if I have any issues.

Diana Gutierrez - Yanıt

Akkuwechsel ging mit der Anleitung und dem iFixit-Akku-Kit (MacBook Pro 13" Retina late 2013) sehr gut, habe zusätzlich zum Aceton “gewachste Zahnseide” zum Lösen der Akkusteile benutzt.

Battery change went very well with the manual and the iFixit battery kit (MacBook Pro 13 "Retina late 2013), in addition to the acetone "waxed dental floss" used to release the battery parts.

Markus Illian - Yanıt

Hello, my battery is completely dead. It’s on 0% and unable to be charged. (Charger is working properly) According to battery health apps, it has 0 mAH. The status of the battery is replace now. When the status was on “service battery” the macbook was performing normally. But now it’s extremely slow. Should i do something before trying to install a new battery?

Kristian - Yanıt

@alphaumi I’d replace that battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have just replaced my battery. It was way easier than i have expected, but one should follow the steps carefully. With the new battery the laptop is way faster as well!

Kristian -

Brilliant - done in 50 mins ‘con calma’ saved £450 on price quoted by apple.

Oliver Craig - Yanıt

Thank you for this excellent replacement kit and superb guide. I followed the steps without any problems and they match the procedure without mistakes. I recovered the battery capacity.

Great job!

Ricardo Cortes - Yanıt

I used a hairdryer and credit cards to get the adhesive loose. Not saying you should use a hairdryer, just saying it worked for me just fine.

Pentalobe + torx + hairdryer + credit cards (or nylon string) is all you need.

For some reason my battery didn’t have any screws except for the one near the connector which was strange but whatevs. The adhesive seems to be holding well enough.

Moe Poe - Yanıt

Replaced it in about 2 hours. Getting the old batteries out was by far the hardest part, especially since they were already swollen and I wanted to be extra careful.

New battery reports 0 cycles and 100% health as expected. Tools were perfect. I did use the string method for the 2 center batteries. Although it would’ve worked with the solvent too.

iFixit is the best. I hope this site exists forever and will continue supporting them.

Thank you!

Joni Van Roost - Yanıt

Awesome guide! I am so happy that my computer now works at full capacity. And so easy with the step-by-step :)

Kayla Fuller - Yanıt

MUCH appreciation to the author of this guide, and to those who have posted very helpful comments along the way. The instructions - and especially the photos - are outstanding. This repair is definitely not “easy,” but it is certainly do-able. It’s important to follow the instructions very carefully, without jumping around, to assure no damage to delicate connectors. This repair should breathe new life into one of the very best laptop models ever made by Apple. My old battery lasted six years. If the replacement lasts half as long, I’ll be happy.

Ralph Begleiter - Yanıt

Excellent instructions! Very detailed and thorough.

Harsha S - Yanıt

I bought a new battery couple of months ago. It worked fine till now. The battery is not charging. Stays at 1%. Tried removing the battery, and putting it back in (as advised), but it didnt help. Tried with other charger, didnt help, tried charging other macbook with my charger and it worked. Any Ideas what can I do?

Kristian - Yanıt

@alphaumi You might want to try a simple SMC reset first, but from your description my guess would be it’s a defective battery. :(

Jeff Suovanen -

Removing the old battery is the most time-consuming part of this repair. Patience is ESSENTIAL.

Meanwhile, I used this repair as an opportunity to do some “dusting”. I’d thought I’d been pretty responsible about keeping my PB clean, transporting it safely, etc. I was flabbergasted how much dust and debris had accumulated in 5 yrs. of use! I used a bulb blower to dust some areas. I used a small vacuum with tiny attachments (great for cleaning sewing machines, electronics, etc.) to suck out addition loose crud.

ellamama - Yanıt

Well done instructions, even if a little over-kill. I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

Jim Turney - Yanıt

Wouldn’t it be more effective to apply heat below the batteries? You’d have to unfold the laptop and prop it up somehow, but still…

mcbohdo - Yanıt

My ifixit batteries were so bloated that it took nothing but a hair dryer to get them out.

little - Yanıt

Easy to replace and works excellent! I did forget to wait 5 hours after depleting the battery.. Is it really a big issue? Its charging now..

erik - Yanıt

Worked very well. Took about 1:30h while working very carefully. MBP works again like a charm - thanks so much :)

Sebastian Will - Yanıt

I have been using this laptop for 6 years until the battery completely died and it became super slow. I was considering to get a new laptop but thanks to this guide i got the courage to replace the battery myself and now it works like a charm again. Thousand thanks for the guide.

Ümit Orhan - Yanıt

I managed to remove battery with dental floss and using rubber gloves for electricians, not the ones that came with the kit. Using dental floss was super easy and quick (around 20 minutes to get the battery out), just do it slowly and pull gently to each side once you get it under. Dental floss does break often, two or three times for each battery component. I suppose this was so easy because my laptop is now 6,5 years old and old battery has swollen a bit, so I don’t know if this advice would help with newer batteries. Also, I didn’t disconnect speaker cables from mainboard and just moved them to each side a bit so that a battery can come out. For me longest process was cleaning with adhesive after the battery was out, so I’m glad that I ordered the full kit with adhesive remover.

johnnyzg - Yanıt

Just finished this replacement thanks to this guide. Super excited to see my MacBook brought back to life. It’s still good despite being 7 years old.

I used the threading technique to break out the adhesive behind the battery. A lot less messy and risky than using the acetone I reckon. I only used acetone to clean up the old glue before putting in the new battery.

However, when I went to start it up again I noticed my MacBook was super slow. I then tried pulling the power plug to see what would happened. The whole computer complete shutdown.

Turns out the battery wasn’t being detected by the MacBook. I tried resetting the SMC to no avail.

So I opened it up again and noticed that the battery connected was only on half way and tilted to the side. I pressed it down firmly and it convincingly clicked into place.

Almost had a heart attack but thankfully everything is all good. Battery is reading 1 cycle and 6783mAh capacity.. super sweet! The MacBook feels like new again. Will calibrate to get the most from it

Cheers!

Tony Le - Yanıt

I followed the guide very carefully but now when I turn on the laptop the fan is very loud and then I tried to turn on my WiFi but it doesn't turn in. Can you tell me if there is a known reason for this please

Vimal chavda - Yanıt

I managed to stop the fan, but still my WiFi doesn't turn on. It DOESNT say that it can't do it, just when I click it, doesn't do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Other than that, the guide is spot on, thanks so much

Vimal chavda -

i dont use the solvent , i use cord like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBr_EdoB...

Return - Yanıt

Straightforward and easy to follow guide. I would normally freak out doing anything so fiddly, but the guide is great and helped me lots. Took about 45 minutes. Get a bunch of empty containers and post its to write the step and part name and keep everything organised and separate. Very happy to have finished this in one go and without any issues.

markdebono - Yanıt

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