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Follow this guide to replace the USB-C charging port in your iPad Pro 12.9" 4th generation.
Some photos in this guide show the screen disconnected and fully removed. This isn't necessary for the procedure, so this guide skips those steps.
This guide is written with an A2229 (Wi-Fi only) model iPad Pro. If you have the cellular model, use this guide as a general reference, but you may need to perform extra disassembly not covered in this guide.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
What you need
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the right edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.
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The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
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There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the very tip of your pick here to avoid damaging them.
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There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. Angle your pick upward as you slice here.
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The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging them.
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Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.
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Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
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One 1.8 mm-long screw
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:
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Four 1.1 mm screws
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One 2.0 mm screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Cut two 6 mm-wide strips from a playing card to block the connections to the battery.
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Insert the card strips under each side of the battery connector.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port press connector from the logic board.
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Slide an opening pick under the USB-C port cable to separate it from the logic board.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.6 mm-long screws securing the USB-C port.
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Grab and remove the USB-C port from its recess in the frame.
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Use caution not to lose the grounding contacts on either side of the USB-C recess.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Answers community for help.
