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If your iPhone 11 screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when powered on, use this guide to get your iPhone working again with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.
If the back of your new screen already includes a thin metal LCD shield plate, follow this shorter guide instead for an easier repair. But if the plate is missing, keep reading—this guide will show you how to replace your screen and keep your old LCD shield plate.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the screen is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must use the instructions below to transfer it from your old screen to your new one. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID won’t work, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple’s “authorized” technicians can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality won’t work after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
Any suggestions if the screen is broken and the anti-clamp just separates the screen from the bezel?
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.
I have the same question
After heating (I used a hair dryer for 4-5 mins, moving around whole frame, to make sure was pretty hot, then let sit for 1 minute), insert a razor blade between the bezel and the frame, at the bottom edge. Lever upwards, the screen will easily pull away. You won’t even need the suction cup.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?
Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.
Tonynox -
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
I got to this point thinking/hoping I could eek by with a Y1 orY0 or even a PH000 driver but no such luck. The Y000 is in fact necessary. Finishing this repair will have to wait for now.
ALSO thanks Apple, there is ABSOLUTELY no reason AT. ALL. to use so many random, oddball screw heads, BUT to make self repairs more difficult and expensive. A real F-U to the consumer!
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.
Pay attention.
내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?
Hast Du das Problem gelöst?
커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.
Hampter -
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
There needs to be an extra step between 24 and 25 for reassembly, telling folks to apply adhesive here. I got the thing almost all the way put back together before realizing that the adhesive was a single piece that needs the cables to be disconnected in order to apply it.
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Remove the display assembly.
After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)
Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.
You are both correct. Testing the screen before putting on adhesive means the screen can be returned if faulty. Many places will not accept a screen return that has adhesive on it.
So if it works apply adhesive at this point. When testing don’t just rely on Apple logo test touch functionality also .
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Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
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Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
Correct me if I am wrong but you no longer need to do this as of IOS 15.2 as apple doesnt disable Face ID on 3rd party repairs
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
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Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
Sometimes this won't be sufficient for the glue to melt. I ripped the ambient cable twice trying to remove it from the greenish plastic piece (the one with two round holes on the two sides). Here's a less risky procedure: take off the plastic piece together with the rest of the speaker + front sensors, as a block. Then when reassembling, remove the plastic piece from the new screen, and apply the whole block instead.
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Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
This step was a little bit confusing. I thought that the entire ribbon assm should be removed once the speaker was detached. The entire assm doesn’t actually come off until Step 30.
Be careful in the next few steps, as you can easily damage some parts. Make sure that you operate gently, and that you don't pull, twist or apply too much pressure on the components.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.
As you remove it, familiarise with its position. It will be hard to put it back into place. If you pay close attention to how it comes out, it will be easier to put it back
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Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
Right here. Hope it helps!
When I reinstall this assembly on the new (ifixit) screen, once all the sensors are in their holes and you fold the speaker back over, the screw holes don't line up, OR the speaker doesn't fit snugly. You can move the speaker so its no longer snug, and the screw holes line up. Is there a trick to this?
My replacement screen didn't come with the transparent plastic bits surrounding the front camera, infrared and earpiece speaker... I wonder what would have turned up if I didn't purchase the " original" version in that dodgy shop... lol. If this is your case, you need to clean the glass off this piece of plastic and metal, try not to damage the earpiece protection included on top of that piece, and go back to that shop for a good argument! Got some pics if needed.
Correction: I finally got rid of the earpiece protection because I hadn't noticed that was included in the replacement screen, although of much lower quality than the "real" original.
In addition: be veeeeeery gentle on the heat gun, I accidentally melted a bit of the plastic in the "plastic and metal piece"... Made the ambient light sensor fit kinda loose. :/
Thanks a lot ! My son's iphone is reborned, and I'm upskilled !
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the 1.1 mm screws securing the LCD shield:
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Three screws on the side nearest the display cables
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Two more screws on the opposite side
L’appui sur les vis est réellement important, au risque de foirer celles-ci. N’hésitez donc pas à appuyer, en faisant contre-poids du côté opposé bien évidemment.
This is the bit that was difficult. The tri'point screwdriver y0000 barely fits this tricky size. It could have been the cheap screwdriver that came with the screen replacement kit. Stripped 2 screws, drilled out with an appropriate size drill bit ' frame still intact. I had more success using a size 0.7mm flathead screwdriver.
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Apply a little heat from an iOpener (or hair dryer / heat gun) to the back of the display, in order to soften the adhesive securing the display cables to the LCD shield.
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Insert an opening pick between the display cables and LCD shield.
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Slide it toward the bottom edge of the display to begin separating the cables.
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Stop when you reach the end of the first cable.
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Re-insert your opening pick, this time between the two cables.
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Slide the pick to the bottom edge of the display to separate the cables from each other.
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Peel the entire digitizer cable away from the LCD shield, and fold it aside.
IPhone XS copy phone ka folder
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Insert an opening pick under the top edge of the LCD shield, and twist to separate it from the display.
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Raise the LCD shield up at a higher angle, until you can see the rest of the display cable stuck to the back.
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Slide a spudger between the LCD shield and the display cable, and separate them completely.
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As you lift the LCD shield, note the metal prongs on the bottom edge.
hello whaty if one of the golden contact pins ( i guess it is) to be exact right one has freyed up a bit and looks messy. could it cause harm or it is not very important?
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Only the LCD and digitizer remains.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? See our extensive iPhone troubleshooting library, or specifically our iPhone 11 won't turn on page. Try our basic troubleshooting tips or you can also ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? See our extensive iPhone troubleshooting library, or specifically our iPhone 11 won't turn on page. Try our basic troubleshooting tips or you can also ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
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24 Yorum
I am a repair technician from California, and I use your company’s tools and I gotta say that I love them. Very sleek, and the powerful magnetic bits help me get the job done. I did 5 repairs yesterday and each one finished was a good feeling of satisfaction. In the future, if you guys decide to make some sort of in-depth manual for the newer iPhones, that would be great because diagrams are not only a great way for me to sharpen my own skills, but will help make training new techs a breeze.
Cheers all the way from Fresno!
Hi, I replaced the display independently, not in the Apple service, to my disappointment I found a message in the device that warned me that the part is not original, consequently the FaceID was disabled. Can you tell me about ear? Thank you
Getting a message saying not genuine is known issue. there is no workaround yet. as far as face ID not working, you need to check for tear on the flex as you probably damaged it during transfer. If it’s broken, there is no way to fix.
The Important Display Message can be removed, check here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLo0_p7O...
Ricky LV -
Great repair guide. My only issues:
1. There are no instructions for removing the metal panel from the back of the old screen (nor how to reinstall it).
2. There are no instructions for removing the old, black adhesive from around the edge of the old case (nor the much needed instructions for reinstalling the new adhesive without damaging it or compromising the purpose of replacing this adhesive). This info is also missing from the adhesive replacement page for the iPhone 11.
I was able to patiently work my way through both of these issues and complete the repair on an iPhone 11. Covering these issues as additional steps of the repair guide would be very helpful for future iFixers.
Anyone have the phone randomly reboot after screen replacement? All aspects work on the phone after replacement. It just randomly goes black and then restarts
Maybe just a bad battery connection or a stained/bent connector
I am a repair tech at a repair shop we do more but thats what we are called and i love you’re tools, they are just perfect for everything and all i can say really is, be super careful with the screen and the prox flex, they can be eaisly ripped and really ruin you’re day because to restore the face id with a new prox requires micro sodering but other then that just be careful
I find the OEM screen looks more yellowish, is it me only?
OEM screens tend to have the colors a little bit off, could also be caused by disabled true tone.
Overall a very useful repair guide, there´s just one issue I came across:
Different display manufactors.
Been looking around, due to some issues and so far I´ve seen some different manufactors for the iPhone 11 (and the XR):
Toshiba (the print on the display starts with C11 or F7C, as seen on the last picture)
LG (DTP or C3F)
Sharp (DKH)
someone else stumbled across this?
Apple doesnt offer new displays, however afaik the original apple product manufacturer foxconn refurbishes original screens. Or you could just get a refurbished screen from somewhere else…
For iphone 11, on the flex if there is a square code QRC is DTP and a rectangle is C11
Didier -
Awesome guide, thank you very much! By the way, after the replacement the true tone function will most likely be disabled, which can as far as i know only be fixed by copying the firmware from the old screen over to the new one with a programmer (for example Qianli iCopy Plus). Also, the phone will notify you that the screen is not genuine after every restart and it will always show a notification in the settings. The only way to get around that is to swap the chip on the display cable with a hot air station and solder paste (not worth the hustle in my opinion, i dont mind the one notification in settings). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agq2HPK-...
Cheers!
Hi, since replacing my screen my ear speaker has been very muffed/static. Is there any way I can fix this? Thanks
I’d suggest checking the mesh under the earpiece for dirt and stuff that could be blocking the sound and maybe trying to refit it, maybe it’s not properly seated. Could also be fixed by just reseating the earpiece flex…
completed the guide. thx. my iphone claimed the screen is not original. anyway, seems to work correct
Hello I was wondering if anyone could help me. I recently replaced the screen of an iphone 11. The phone was good for the first couple of days but now the customer is having some issues. His display is something randomly scrolling up, mainly while watching videos and sometimes the screens just starts to act crazy and press random things. I’ve been doing some research and I found that something i could do is reset the phone to factory settings. However i’m unsure if this is like a software or a hardware issue. Any advice is helpful, thanks!
From my experience this sound like a ghost touch issue. Usually caused by a loose/broken/dirty connection or an overly tight screw somewhere. It's unlikely, but if you installed a screen protector afterwards, it may have a fingerprint or dirt between the protector and the phone screen. Same thing happened when we did my sisters phone at our store, a connection was loose and a screw was a little bit tight. Maybe a more experienced tech could offer more in-depth insight.
Teejay R -
Hello, I followed the guide and repairs. My phone will not come on. Unless sitting on the charger and then I only get the Apple logo for a few seconds and it does this repeatedly. Any guess on where I went wrong? Thanks
Hi all, Im still trying to get a better understanding of the different types of "screen repair" that can be done.
From what I understand, it is possible to perform a replacement of ONLY the "front glass/screen" with 3rd party, non-OEM screens that you can purcahse online) OR you can replace BOTH the screen and digitizer.
ALot of 3rd party sellers sell a "screen replacement" but I am not sure exactly what I need to look for.
My front screen is cracked but the damage that is visible is purely physical (II don't see /experience any altered pixels, flashing colors etc, just dealing with a iphone with a cracked front screen). BUT in addition to the physical damage, the right side of my iphone 11 (specifically a small area that covers the "&" sign and letter "i" on my keyboard are non-responsive.
Now, is the item Im commenting on going to fix my touch issue? If not, which Ifixit replacement part(s) will resolve this? if at all.
thanks
The ribbon cables used on this screen are incredibly weak, when compared to the apple ones. Did this whole thing and had the phone fully working. Made sure the cables were in the right spot and started pressing the screen in just for the display cable to split in half from a couple pounds of pressure. Absolutely livid. Waste of money and time. You can really tear these cables apart with the tiniest fold.
the right screws wouldn’t come off
Yusef San Inocencio - Yanıt
ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!
Aisa Jawara -
Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!
danielaguirre93 - Yanıt
You can try this.
Quickly Press and release the volume up button.
then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.
then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.
worked for me :D
Benóný Egilson - Yanıt
Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?
Brian Baker - Yanıt
not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws
Aisa Jawara - Yanıt
how do you change battery of an iPhone 11 and still the battery health shows, do you use a software for that?
Great Me - Yanıt
Battery health won’t show on a non Apple battery.
DON’T forget to discharge old battery before removing it. Very impressive fire (and smoke!) if you puncture it. Ask me how I know
Doug Harrowing - Yanıt