iPhone X Face ID Replacement

Do not read any simcard in iphone

There are 6.81mm long screws!

One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

same situation here

Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?

William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.

If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?

Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

Is this tool required or can I just use the Anti-Clamp by itself.

If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!

Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

Rich May 23, 2020

My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …

I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.

cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

Do this sensor affect face id?

It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.

I have damaged the front panel sensor assembly flex cable. Does it carry multiple channels of info or is it just one solid piece that can be soldered back together? If not, will the phone still work except Face ID?

I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

CAUTION:

Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.

Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.

So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.

Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.

Be careful: the metal clip beneath this screw it’s really small, make sure not losing it.

Steps 19 and on are all on the screen you just removed. Not the phone side. I didn’t look closely at the image and just went for the screw in roughly the same place on the phone body side. First warning sign it’s a phillips - but more importantly I was working on the entirely wrong piece. I guess you’ll probably figure it out faster than I did.

FYI: My iphone XS has a slightly different screw position for the one shown to have a “clip”. There is no clip for this screw on mine. Maybe a rev update because of the clip getting lost and being hard to reinstall?

FYI - The sensor assembly of the replacement looks a bit different from my original one. The screw is located further to the right on the original. As a result, I am unable to attach the sensor assembly on the replacement part, because the fixture is at a different position.

Unfortunately, there’s nothing I can do about it apart asking for a refund.

Screws at my Iphone X are normal,but even w heat,i cant take them off,and even the strongest member of my family cant do this

sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

Is there a way to just buy the gold grounding clip because my phone cannot search for wifi anymore!

Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me

Yes eBay has it

Screw Gasket Ear Speaker for Apple iPhone X Replacement Repair Phone Part Speak

Que pasa si no pones ese clip?

What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

I would suggest:

1. Try a small precision flat head, a good quality one, I bought some that were supposed to be to remove stripped screws, about 20-30 bucks for 4 or 5 of them, and they have saved my butt many times.

2. I have been able to remove stripped screws with wire cutters. Or you can try some vamp pliers but they are probably too large for this situation.

3. If the last two fail, the course of action is to basically destroy the head of that screw (assuming you are removing the stuff you need for your new lcd, which is very likely) they have drill bits called easy outs or screw removing drill bit, which is a drill bit with the spiral going the opposite direction (for a screw that tiny you can take a small drill bit, cut and sharpen the end that normally has no spiral, I have made that work in the past) the point is that as you drill in, the drill bit is digging and moving counterclockwise, so at some point as it digs in it will get “stuck” and keep spinning go the screw, thus removing it.

what to do if during assembly the 1.6mm doesn’t want to go in it’s hole in the new screen but it fits perfectly in the old one??

i damage the cable, where can i buy a replacemnt

que temperatura debe tener una estacion de calor para hacer el trabajo del iopener

I could not have done this without the iOpener, it was worth the investment!

i can i purchase this part

yes mr.brown, you can

if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/micro phone unrecoverable?

quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

what colour is the diffuser

also can you show the position of sensors going back into the new screen

there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

@br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!

I find it better, regardless of if your new screen comes with the transparent front camera frame, to remove the front sensor assembly from the old screen with the frame, and lifting up the whole assembly using the frame. That way you do not need to apply heat directly to the fragile assembly, but apply it to the other side, the front of the screen at the top, instead, to soften the frame adhesive. The frame is then usually easy to pry loose using a narrow spudger, and comes off cleanly. After that it is much easier to remove the sensors and microphone from the frame, no heat needed usually. And if your new screen doesn’t come with the frame, just plonk the whole frame/sensor assembly down in the right place, and boom, Bob’s your uncle.

To keep True Tone function on the replacement screen you’ll need a chip data programmer EEPROM to copay data from the old screen onto the new one. There a device called JC-V1 which should do the trick.

can this piece assembly cause for the back camera and flashlight not work? All I did was change the screen and transfer this earpiece and it says warning sign that the flashlight needs to cool down and back camera not working

disregard my last post, problem solved on my end customer had a bad back camera due to bad fall and so i replaced it and now the back camera and flashlight works. :)

Hello I replaced today the second time iphone x display. The first time after a while the front camera stopped working. Today mounted the second time the display and the front camera works, while the rear one does not work. What can I do? Thanks

if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/microphone unrecoverable at all?

I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.

The 2.4mm screw identified as “green” needs a Y000 screwdriver

Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(

The color codes are missing from my display — only on this step.

The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?

For first timer, dont think its possible to skip these steps and remove battery. It’s hard to remove the glue

I had to remove the tactic and speaker could not get the glue strips out so glad the steps to do so were in this guide.

Sure would like to know WHY the warning "Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads..." What would or could happen if I did touch them??

Removing the battery strips is a major PITA, just skip this step and everything onwards, remove the one strip on the top part of the battery (according to step 33) and for the bottom part of the battery, pry it off with a plastic spudger.

Yes, this is not the elegant solution, but the quickest and easiest one. This method is better, as you don't want to keep the old battery anyway, so why bother. (You must not puncture the battery though! But as long as you're only working with a plastic tool and are careful, nothing can happen from my experience.)

Remove the adhesive from the top part of the battery, squirt some ipa into the bottom part and it will come off easily, then skip to 38.

Does anyone know, where I can get new grounding pads (with or without bracket)?

My bracket was in two pieces.

As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.

Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.

As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.

Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.

You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.

Maybe I'm a bit daft, but where's the instruction just how to line up the speaker gasket when replacing? I only have one so I'd like to avoid wrecking it. And I completely cleaned off the old one in order to do a good job of things. Why no simple instruction from part supply link?

hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery

I had a lot of trouble with this. Only two came out properly and the others snapped off. I heated up the back of the phone with a hair dryer then used the flat end of the spudger to slowly pry it off right to left, bottom to top.

just pry it off, why bother

I found it easier to grab the end of the adhesive strip sideways with narrow tweezers, "twirl " the tweezers to wrap the strip around them a few times, then gently pull the strip with the tweezers.

surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,

if you use a guitar string, remember NOT to use a METALLIC guitar string.

When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.

Connect the battery first then put it in place. Other way it is hard to adjust power connector.

I would also HIGHLY suggest re-installing the speaker as well before installing the battery - it was a very tight squeeze as the bottom-right of the battery was snug against the speaker when I tried to get that back in.

This thing is highly prone to damage. Treat it with baby hands! Mine stopped working after changing my buttons and I was super careful