Giriş
The front camera assembly consists of a standard front facing camera, an infrared (IR) camera, and a dot projector. These three components are an integral part of Apple's Face ID technology.
The front camera assembly is paired to the logic board so only Apple can replace the assembly and maintain Face ID functionality. If the loss of Face ID is acceptable, then you can use this guide to to replace the front camera.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.1 mm screws
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One 3.1 mm screw
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One 3.7 mm screw
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Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
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Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
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One Y000 1.2 mm screw
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One Y000 1.6 mm screw
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One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
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Use tweezers to peel off and remove all the old gasket from the frame and speaker.
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Use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean all the gasket's adhesive residue from the frame and speaker.
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Before installing the speaker gasket, find its proper orientation on the bottom of the speaker—the large cutout on the gasket should go around the speaker grille mesh.
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Remove the larger, clear liner from the gasket and use tweezers to carefully put the gasket into place on the bottom of the speaker.
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Use your fingers or a spudger to firmly press the gasket into place to secure it with the adhesive.
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Remove the remaining liner and put the speaker into place, making sure the speaker connector doesn't get stuck underneath.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
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The dot projector.
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The front camera.
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The infrared camera.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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3 Yorum
Hey I want to try this but dont you also need new glue for the screen and battery
Indeed you do. The fact that they aren't included in the parts list is due to the way preexisting guides are combined together to create a new guide such as this one. They inherit the parts and tools from previous guides, and in this case the iFixit-created guides that form the basis for this guide did not include those parts, so my guide didn't inherit them.
Here are the adhesives I would recommend to do this job.
iPhone X Display Assembly Adhesive
iPhone X Battery Adhesive Strips
iPhone X Front Facing Camera Cables Conductive Adhesive Set
iPhone X Loudspeaker Adhesive Gasket
You'll note that I added a couple of items to your list; you can get away without the front camera cables adhesives since they sit under the battery so they're not going anywhere, but I would suggest the last one. It's something that's rarely mentioned, but removing the speaker will generally ruin the sealant on it, thereby reducing the water resistance of the phone overall, so I've taken to ordering that gasket along with the others.
I would also like to point out that depending on exactly why you want to replace the front camera assembly, you may be able to do so without losing Face ID. You see, only the IR camera and dot projector are paired to the motherboard; the selfie camera itself is not. So it is possible to cut open the metal bracket that holds the selfie camera and replace just the camera, keeping the paired parts and thus keeping Face ID working. Both the replacement bracket and the camera alone are available for sale on sites like eBay, AliExpress and Amazon. But again, that only helps. if it's just the camera that's broken; if either of the other parts isn't working then you've lost Face ID permanently - well, unless you pay Apple to replace the camera assembly, that is.
