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Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board in your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on your new logic board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Yanıt

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Yanıt

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Yanıt

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Yanıt

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Yanıt

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Yanıt

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Yanıt

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Yanıt

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Yanıt

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Yanıt

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Yanıt

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Yanıt

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Yanıt

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Yanıt

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Yanıt

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Yanıt

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Yanıt

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Yanıt

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Yanıt

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Yanıt

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Yanıt

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Yanıt

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Yanıt

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Yanıt

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Yanıt

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Yanıt

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Yanıt

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Yanıt

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Yanıt

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Yanıt

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Yanıt

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Yanıt

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Yanıt

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Yanıt

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Yanıt

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Yanıt

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Yanıt

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Yanıt

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Yanıt

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Yanıt

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Yanıt

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - Yanıt

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Yanıt

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Yanıt

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Yanıt

    Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!

    Nolan Shaffer - Yanıt

    After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?

    heathergminchen - Yanıt

    I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.

    BobY - Yanıt

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note this is not telling you remove the gasket, just separate it from the fan.

    BobY - Yanıt

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.

    grahammartin - Yanıt

    The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm

    georgeantoniades - Yanıt

  9. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).

    BobY - Yanıt

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.

    Rick Silton - Yanıt

    I didn’t find any need to disconnect or remove the I/O board. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board.

    BobY - Yanıt

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake

    ForceGhostJeremy - Yanıt

    I didn’t find any need to do anything to the I/O board/cables. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board or any of the cables attached to it.

    BobY - Yanıt

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Yanıt

    The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )

    Jon Lucenius - Yanıt

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Yanıt

  13. Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.

    Wai Wong - Yanıt

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Yanıt

  14. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  15. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Yanıt

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Yanıt

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Yanıt

    how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?

    Nolan Shaffer -

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find any need to do this.

    BobY - Yanıt

  16. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 3.0 mm T5 Torx screws

    what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?

    Edy Surpat - Yanıt

    There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case

    maccentric -

    Hello,

    the battery is now delivered with a transparent plastic taped allover the new battery.

    is it needed or shall it be removed

    kind regards

    Maes Michel - Yanıt

    Hello,

    If the plastic is easily removable from the battery, it should be removed. However, if the plastic is glued onto the battery, do not remove the plastic.

    Arthur Shi -

  17. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • Your replacement battery may arrive with a plastic film lightly adhered to the top surface. Remove this film when you install the battery. However, if the film is glued on and is difficult to remove, you can leave the film in place.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?

    Albert - Yanıt

    @albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate

    2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?

    joshuafiddler - Yanıt

    The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.

    After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.

    Garrett Guillotte - Yanıt

    I found these two little broken tabs under the battery. Not sure where they came from, but Ididn’t put them back in anywhere.

    https://1drv.ms/u/s!As3YRQaTlkClgcgS6Hhl...

    Norm Hils - Yanıt

    These are from the old battery. Not totally necessary.

    Scott Baker -

    Good opportunity to blow or brush away some accumulated dust from a unit like mine (5 -6 years service) when the battery is out. Also at this time, used the thin probe tool to ream out some debris from the rim of the base.

    The replacement battery cable seemed too long to fit well but when I examined the original, I noted a distinct v kink downwards in that one. A gentle push down in the middle formed a V and permitted the new cable to fit Presumably without harm..

    howardmat3 - Yanıt

    The instructions on this step say to remove the plastic film on the replacement battery, but the introduction says to leave it on. Which step is correct?

    William Davis - Yanıt

    Hi William!

    Good question! If the film is lightly adhered, you can peel and remove the film.

    Arthur Shi -

    Hi how can I discharge the battery (MacBook air 2017) quickly as the battery has swollen and I need to get it out, at the moment I am running lots of apps but it still shows 6%?

    John MacMahon - Yanıt

    max screen brightness and run some cpu benchmark

    Daniele Carminati -

    Shorting the battery is very dangerous. Leave the computer on until it shuts down on its own.

    Manuel Jesús Flores Jiménez - Yanıt

    The fix kit for this battery comes with a spudger. What is it for?

    mobya45 - Yanıt

  18. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

  19. Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - Yanıt

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - Yanıt

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - Yanıt

  21. Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - Yanıt

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - Yanıt

    On getting it on — i feel it's implied by the word "push” you can walk it out with the spudger. I couldn't wanage that, and instead walked it out by taking the cord between my index and thumb and walking it out by pulling it to the right and then the left repeatedly in a

    Elijah Kennedy - Yanıt

  22. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  23. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - Yanıt

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

    What is this cables for?

    great.ryankim - Yanıt

    It’s a speaker cable

    maccentric -

    This is the one that gave me the hardest time!!! It does pop up and out tho.

    Edward Mills - Yanıt

  25. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - Yanıt

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - Yanıt

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - Yanıt

    In the model I was working on, the 6th screw (in the middle) was hiding under the Samsung RAM module. Simply remove the one T5 screw holding it in, slide the RAM module out, and the 6th screw will be exposed.

    Tim - Yanıt

    “Samsung RAM module”… do you mean the SSD? That stick of NVRAM is totally your hard drive.

    FeRD - Yanıt

    Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD

    Peter Newman -

  26. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - Yanıt

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - Yanıt

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Goldheart - Yanıt

  27. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - Yanıt

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - Yanıt

    This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

    airshack - Yanıt

    NOTE: There is a sort of clamp/washer attached to this screw that I didn’t know about until I flipped the laptop up on its side and it fell onto the desk. Also: you need to reset it *before* the motherboard

    Edward Mills - Yanıt

  28. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - Yanıt

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - Yanıt

    If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

    airshack - Yanıt

  29. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught. During reassembly:
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly:

    • Keep loose cables clear of the board so they aren't caught under it.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches, as highlighted in the second picture.

  30. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  31. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

  32. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

  33. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

  34. Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  35. When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins. The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board. Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.
    • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

    This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

    The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

    Daniel Cassel - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

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Wow, you saved me $1000 bucks! I spilled brandy on my MacBook Air and followed your instructions to completely strip it down. I followed instructions for cleaning circuit boards after a spill from another page on this site. My MacBook works perfectly now!

Your instructions were great. You might note that there is some variation in the placement of different components, ribbon connectors, etc., but I figured it out by zooming in on your pictures and finding a picture of each exact component. They look the same, even though they are in different spots. I found out you can dunk the circuit boards in 91% rubbing alcohol, clean the parts with a soft toothbrush, and let it all dry. I didn’t bother with removing and replacing the heat sink and thermal paste. After soaking in the alcohol, I saw that the heat sinks were still firmly attached thermal paste looked fine, so I left it alone. I liked your specific descriptions about which way to pull or lift the ribbon connectors, and using the right tools! Thanks!

Sharon - Yanıt

I am afraid if you soaked the whole unit in alcohol, the heat sink paste is probably ruined? If the unit seems to get hot or shut off spontaneously, I would consider taking it apart AGAIN, and cleaning and relating the heat sink with fresh new thermal paste. You can clean the old paste off with Alcohol, do you see why that worries me ;~)

max damage -

Do you know where can i buy pre owned motherboard like this that can be trusted? Mine is missused and cant turn on.

triesniaf - Yanıt

Can anyone please let me know where to buy Motherboard, my macbook air is not getting started. they said there is a moisture on the logic board.

శ్రీ - Yanıt

Hi Sriram, we have links to the motherboards (Apple calls them Logic Boards) at the top of this guide.

Sam Goldheart -

How do you determine which logic board to buy? There are two options. I’d rather not have to disassemble to find out then have to wait for delivery to put back together. Is there somewhere on a Mac site I can plug in the serial number to find out?

Colin - Yanıt

If your computer is working you can look in the “About This Mac” menu to learn which processor you have, that will determine which logic board you need. Otherwise check out our “Identify your Mac” tool.

Sam Goldheart -

Replaced the logic board but only the low battery symbol came up on the screen. Water got into the computer and it sat for a while.

Kathleen Valentine - Yanıt

This guide was heaven-sent! Saved my family a LOT of money. My pre-owned MBA was purchased via a third party, so when I was hit with ransomware that locked my device with a firmware lock Apple wasn’t able to help me (without proof of purchase). Replacing the logic board, while expensive, was a lot cheaper than scrapping the device and buying a brand new one.

Note to all: If you’re going to buy a Mac from a non-Apple store or official reseller, ALWAYS ask for the original proof of purchase.

Jason Sanders - Yanıt

Can I leave the microphone and camera cables disconnected and still use all other functions (MacBook Air early 2015) that don’t rely on either?

Paul - Yanıt

How do you re-apply adhesive for when you put the right speaker back on? What adhesive should one use? Do you really need to remove the right speaker in order to take the board out? (Of course the cable needs to be disconnected.)

Michael Fleischmann - Yanıt

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