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Use this guide to replace the display assembly of your non-Touch Bar MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Two Thunderbolt 3 ports).

Before starting this procedure, you may want to check with Apple to see if you qualify for a free repair. If your display’s backlight has stopped working, or the display shows vertical bright areas along the entire bottom of the screen (a.k.a. “stage lights”), your MacBook Pro may be eligible for Apple’s display backlight service program.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before starting repairs.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Yanıt

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Yanıt

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Yanıt

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Yanıt

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Yanıt

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Yanıt

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Yanıt

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Yanıt

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Yanıt

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Yanıt

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Yanıt

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Yanıt

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Yanıt

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Yanıt

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Yanıt

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Yanıt

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Yanıt

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Yanıt

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Two 5.3 mm screws

    • Two 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - Yanıt

    I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

    tommy404 - Yanıt

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.

    To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

    olivia drinkwine - Yanıt

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

    My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.

    Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.

    David Hutzler - Yanıt

    yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off

    Grant Tyler - Yanıt

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

    Andrew Gordon - Yanıt

    This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!

    Javier De la Garza -

    I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

    Josh Brown - Yanıt

    This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move

    Jambu Atchison - Yanıt

    I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)

    Gerard Padua - Yanıt

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the lower case.

    I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.

    That is far easier and more reliable.

    David Hutzler - Yanıt

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - Yanıt

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - Yanıt

    The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

    Rick Jaffe - Yanıt

    Be very careful to ensure you're pulling the large rectangular patch of tape and NOT the little black tab on the data cable that is below. At first glance they look like they're all one piece. I made this mistake and think that I ruined that cable.

    Brendan C - Yanıt

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    If this ribbon comes off on both ends, how do you re-attach

    Gord Alder - Yanıt

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - Yanıt

    The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

    Rick Jaffe - Yanıt

    Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

    Robert - Yanıt

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.

    • If you're replacing your battery, you may need to completely remove and transfer this cable to your new battery. Disconnect both ends and carefully remove the cable. During installation, be careful not to install it upside-down or backwards—note the orientation in the photos.

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - Yanıt

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    lamajr - Yanıt

    Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

    Marc - Yanıt

    In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

    Rick Jaffe - Yanıt

    AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!

    Kevin McAda -

    If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

    Josh M - Yanıt

    my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.

    Leo Ruiz - Yanıt

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - Yanıt

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the hinge covers: step 16, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the hinge covers: step 16, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the hinge covers: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

    Be careful tightening these screw. Overtightening will shear the heads off of them.

    John Swinehart - Yanıt

    When reinstalling the plastic hinge covers, be sure to slide the bottom portion UNDER the rim of the unibody. If not when you go to reattach the bottom, it will not fully mate to the body.

    Earl Lynch - Yanıt

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disconnect the main display cable: step 17, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disconnect the main display cable: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are T4

    DarrenG - Yanıt

    Agreed. If you try tightening these with T3, you will partially strip them. Use T4.

    scentaur -

    For me, the left one (on image) are T3 and the right are T4! haha… I’ll put a pic here to show you guys LOL

    glecyo medeiros - Yanıt

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are also T4

    DarrenG - Yanıt

    I had a hard time getting a T4 bit to go into the one on the left, T3 worked perfectly. The one on the right the T4 bit fit just fine.

    arichard2401 - Yanıt

    Impossible for me to take out these screws.

    daleetstudios - Yanıt

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 2
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

    It actually clicks on and off—I did not pay attention when installing the new monitor and when I went to start the computer the screen did not have power but the bottom half came on (the hard drive fan went brrrr) this connector was down—but I had not “clicked” it on. It can be installed such that it will stay on without the metal strip that goes across it. The metal strip seems to be just to ensure it *stays* on. You got this!

    Mr. T. Monk - Yanıt

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the display cable covers: step 20, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the display cable covers: step 20, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the display cable covers: step 20, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cables.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.

    These are mirror images of each other! Beware! In the photo you’ll see that in reassembly the “extra” metal bit goes toward the front. If you look at the underside of them you’ll see two foam bits: one square one to go over the flat metal part, the rectangle over the cable. With the extra metal bit toward the front (away from you) be sure you have the correct cover on the correct side!

    Robert - Yanıt

    This step may be unnecessary if you’re replacing the display. Check on your new display if these are already installed. If they are, skip this step. So far as I can tell, the only reason you do this step is on the off chance your new display does not have these two covers, they don’t really do anything to help remove or install the new display.

    arichard2401 - Yanıt

    Isn't it better to remove these two covers during reassembly to have less friction?

    Ludovic - Yanıt

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the antenna assembly: step 21, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the antenna assembly: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the two 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side).

    • Remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six from each side) securing the rest of the antenna cable assembly.

    I cannot find 1.1 mm P2 screwdriver heads, only 0.8mm and 1.2mm P@s seem to be out there…

    Jurgen - Yanıt

    Un reassembly, DONT OVERLOOK the placement of the “Board Flex Cable” from step 19. Make sure you don’t leave it imprisoned under this assembly. It needs to be lying over all this assembly.

    lamajr - Yanıt

    When reinstalling the antenna cable assembly, on the front side of it facing towards the trackpad, there is a flat silver piece of metal. It needs to go into a little track in the MacBook. If it doesn’t, things will seem normal until you go to close the lid, and you will get a click.

    noahmadsen - Yanıt

    The screw drives of the P2 screws are extremely weak. Be careful when removing these screws and putting them back in.

    Maximilian Krause - Yanıt

    Those 12 tiny screws are a frickin’ nightmare. They appear to be P1’s, not P2’s , as all I have are a P0.8 and a P1.2, and the 0.8 just strips the heads. I did manage to get one out, but that’s it so far. I’m think I’m going to have to use my Dremel to make a slot for a tiny flat bit to get them out… Grrrr…

    jiclark - Yanıt

    i had a horrible time trying to get the 12 p2 screws out and i was ready to give up. i finally got them out when i applied really hard downward pressure onto my screwdriver. i really dug the end of my screwdriver into my palm. put some weight into it.

    ava saldana - Yanıt

    Oh man, be so so so so sure you aren’t stripping these tiny little screws. I got all of them out just fine with a P2, but one of them would just not come out and I ended up stripping it. Had to drill it out. Good news is that it will drill out really really easily with a 1/6 bit, just go really slow.

    arichard2401 - Yanıt

    anyone else have little dabs of cement along the 12 lcd cable screws? seems like apple tried to prevent me from doing this when they made it lol. 1/6 “ DRILLING IT IS lol

    Grant Tyler - Yanıt

    Maybe I could just drill out the stuck ones and only replace the ones that aren’t super messed up? Is that a stupid idea?

    Grant Tyler - Yanıt

    Hi Grant! Yes, that's a valid option.

    Arthur Shi -

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disconnect the antennas: step 22, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disconnect the antennas: step 22, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disconnect the antennas: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully disconnect the two antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the two antenna coax cables to the main board.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unseat the antenna assembly: step 24, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unseat the antenna assembly: step 24, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unseat the antenna assembly: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, as there are two display cables in the way that may be damaged.

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the antenna assembly: step 25, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the antenna assembly: step 25, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the antenna assembly: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle through the hole in the chassis.

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide through the hole in the chassis into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    What is the function of this antenna cable assembly?

    Grant Tyler - Yanıt

    The antenna assembly contains the antenna lines for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Without the assembly, you'll have terrible Wi-Fi and Bluetooth reception.

    Arthur Shi -

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the display cable assembly: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the cover springs on the two display cables.

    These are T4 not T3

    DarrenG - Yanıt

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the cover spring.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover spring on the display cable out of its recess.

    • Repeat this step with the right cover spring.

    YES, on reassembly it is possible to turn rotate the cover springs so that the ribbon is toward you. That’s wrong! It should lie down flat in the well of the laptop body. Be sure the ribbon is going DOWN and not draped up.

    Robert - Yanıt

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the hinge bolts: step 29, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Unscrew the hinge bolts: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the upper display bracket.

    4 + 2 + 2 =8 screws

    There are in fact only 6 screws on the bottom case .

    ianyounie - Yanıt

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Function Keys 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

    • During reassembly, ensure the display cable assembly lies on the correct side of the main body before refastening the hinge bolts.

    • Be sure to confirm that both connectors on either side of the display cable assembly are fully seated, as these may have come loose during the disassembly process.

    During reassembly remember that the screen goes AWAY from you (as in the picture during removal). My cable was taped to the front of the display and had to be untaped and draped backwards over the bottom edge to get into proper position for attachment. Also, just in case this happens to you, too, the longitudinal rod that carries the springs and hinges was about 0.5mm too long to fit into the recesses. I had to file the rod down very slightly to get it to fit.

    Robert - Yanıt

Sonuç

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

66 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Tarun Thiruma

Üyelik tarihi: 20-11-2019

30.041 İtibar

133 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

16 Yorum

This guide sucks really bad.. missed steps. so unclear about everything. crappy pictures, I suggest you re do this whole thing.

Eugene Baker - Yanıt

10-15 minutes is good plus reassembly, major steps are missed this can misguide someone

Mwango - Yanıt

Good guide for someone with experience. I would add a few extra steps with more details, including some additional warnings since having a beginner follow this guide could result in failure in repairing the device. PLEASE HAVE SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE PERFORM THIS REPAIR!

Genesis Soto - Yanıt

This worked perfectly and saved me a lot of money. Many thanks.

Andrew Brown - Yanıt

Maybe the guide was improved since the above comments were made, but I found this guide completely thorough and have used it on multiple machines without issue. Thanks!

brentp - Yanıt

great tutorial but my webcam stopped working after i replaced the screen… any ideas? also what cable is the camera one?

Ryan W - Yanıt

I am definitely an inexperienced at this stuff. Followed it to replace my sons display. Could not get Genius Bar appointment for a month trying. I found this guide to be perfect. Took me 4 slow patient hours because I knew I would have to reverse the steps when finished , however I finished and my son is so happy. Thank you , Tarun and. IFIXIT.

vidrew - Yanıt

Great instructions! This computer is made not to be opened from average user so be very careful!Take your time and be patient.

todoricco - Yanıt

Whatever has been done to improve this review, I must say, it’s fantastic. Nothing was missed. Brilliant repair guide. Thanks!

Rafael Pol - Yanıt

I have never taken apart a laptop before and this guide made it a complete success!

My only bit of input is that I found many instances where the T4 tip worked better on screws that the guide called to use T3.

Tim Costello - Yanıt

I replaced my broken screen using this guide. Guide is superb. Did not need to watch a video. This was the first time I ever opened a macbook pro.

On the criticism side: I agree with other commenters that steps 17 and 18 requires a T4 torx screwdriver, not T3 as stated in the guide. Additionally, step 29 requires a T8 torx screwdriver, which isn’t listed as a required tool. I happened to have a T8, but this repair could not be completed with the listed tools only.

Thanks again.

baturay aydemir - Yanıt

Nicely done and clear. One possible improvement:

Step 21 now says:

Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly.

Also remove the two 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side).

It should say:

Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side) securing the antenna cable and display cable assemblies.

Also remove the two 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side).

This is not an important change when you are REMOVING those screws, but it’s important when you are re-installing them, because it will encourage you to install the screws onto BOTH the antenna and display cable assemblies…

jimbreese - Yanıt

I'm with brentp — there was absolutely nothing wrong with this guide. I've also used it several times.

Charles Geiger - Yanıt

The guide made it easy the tiny screws made it tedious and the magnetic tools made it all possible.

GOAvendano - Yanıt

When removing the P2 tiny screws from the antenna assembly, make sure you press firmly and twist very slowly first, in order to avoid stripping your P2 driver, which can happen very easily. We've lost a couple to this already, and we use them to open iPhones too, so take care of them! Also if you break your P2 tip in the middle of this job and you have none other, you're literally SCREWED! hahaha :)

Felipe Leal - Yanıt

Great guide, and it covered everything in a simple and easy to understand way!

My only critique is that step 20, removing the display cover cables is unnecessary. Unless the replacement display assembly didn't come with those.

Shmajay - Yanıt

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