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Does your battery no longer hold a charge? Follow the steps in this guide to replace a faulty or aging battery in an iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
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Alternatively, make a battery blocker using a playing card and slide it underneath the logic board connector to disconnect the battery.
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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the upper component cable bracket to the tablet.
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Two 1.6 mm
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Two 1.3 mm
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Slide the upper component cable bracket out from under the protective flaps and remove it from the iPad.
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Prepare an iOpener following the steps in the iOpener'ı Isıtma Guide.
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Place the iOpener along the top of the back of the iPad for 2-3 minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board.
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Slide the card down the length of the logic board to release the adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.
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Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Keep it there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and keep it there for another 90 seconds.
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Finally, place the iOpener near the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Once the adhesive has had a couple minutes to soften, flip the iPad over, battery-side up.
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Insert a plastic card underneath the battery contacts.
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Push the card about an inch under the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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60 Yorum
Can the iPad air 2 battery be replaced without removing logic board or do all the internal components have to be dismantled before battery can be replaced?
The battery contacts are pinned underneath the logic board, so it's difficult to remove with the logic board in place. There's also very little room to work with the logic board installed, so there's an increased risk of damaging something with a wayward swipe of your card or pry tool. But yes, it's possible. You can reference this guide for tips on the procedure (it's for a different model but the same overall strategy will work).
I just finished this repair successfully. Don't force ANYTHING Find something, a steel plate, aluminum plate, a heat gun and heat the plates not the iPad. Then it does not over heat, it is even and does not get cool. That makes it really easy. I used a piece of 6" of channel beam and blew the heat in the channel, measuring the top with a laser thermometer (140F target) after step #37, it worked so much better. I lifted the battery w/o touching electronics, and logic board too. It was easy with separators from IFixIT and slabs from a milk carton.
I don't think anything was risky this way and should have used the beam for the 1-37 steps.
Thanks to all who contribute here.
I've just completed this fix (among 4-5 others previously). First comment here b/c this was an unusual repair. The biggest surprise about this fix (or anything to do with the internals of an iPad): the size of the screws! I'm surprised it isn't mentioned at the top, along with the PN000 driver: these things are literally the size of a grain of sand! So, taking them out is the easy part. Putting them back in is a trick. The secret: place them on the holes first, in whichever direction, then maneuver them btw fingernail and driver into correct position. You'll need something to anchor the screen in a vertical position to use both hands. Not mentioned in Jeff and AMT's comments: there is a loop in the battery contact. Not removing the logic board means you'll be breaking the loop on the old battery to remove it, and you'll need to snip the loop on the new battery to insert it. It all worked for me. It made the actual fix a fraction of the steps from the written one (just 4 screws removed), but it's risky.
I bought the $20 repair kit to go along with the lithium ion battery. The suction cup and the heating tube did not work even after multiple attempts to use the heating tube. I had to resort to a hair dryer and use a straight razor to pry the edge just enough to slip a pick in there. I did find incredible use for the magnetized screw drivers and spudgers.
I bought the iFixIt lithium ion battery replacement and once reassembling the iPad Air 2 (double checking each connection for fit and order), it still does not turn on. ugh…
