The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

I would like to add that the tiny cylinder is 0.65mm in diameter and 0.20mm high. I was able to successfully reattach it using a thick cyanoacrylate. You must be careful not to foul the switch's membrane with too much glue. I would suggest using fine point tweezers and a metal probe to apply the tiny dot of glue. You need a steady hand for this.

Examine the switch below the home button. There should be a tiny cylinder of material in the center of it. Look at the image in step 5. There are other things which can go wrong with the home button, but this was my problem.

Notice, in the image the switch for the home button has a tiny sub-1mm dot in the center of it. When I reassembled the home button did not work. That tiny cylinder of material had been knocked off the switch. A rounded probe could still activate the switch, but the flat metal plate on the home button could not. Fortunately, I was working on a white cloth, and a careful search turned up the tiny cylinder. I was able to reattach it and repair the home button.

Organic Products Company is now ITW ProBrands

http://itwprofessionalbrands.com/dymon-p...

*sigh* Well you can see it takes me a while to get back to working on projects that I start. Anyway, the reason I was taking out the sheet feeder was that the sheet feeder builds up too much friction which the printer doesn't like and causes the sheet of paper to be ejected without printing anything. By removing it, lubricating it, and fixing the rubber bits; the printer will print again. My fault was that I haven't finished writing the guide yet.

This may be the most significant change in the new model. It looks like there is a flat ribbon cable to carry the video signal. Those are far more durable than the nasty bundle-of-wires which Apple laptops have been cursed with for the last 15 years. I might bother to buy one.

This step may reveal the most significant change in the new MacBook Pro models, and one that I was hoping for as it showed up in the most recently released MacBook Air series. I believe we are looking at a flat molded ribbon cable which is carrying the display signal. And why is that so significant?

.

The nasty bundle-of-wires these machines have suffered with for the previous 15 years almost universally wear out after about three years. I have a stack of them, and have replaced this cable in dozens. Once Apple changed to hermetically joining the cable to the display unit, it was very very difficult to replace the cable without mangling the display. So a failed cable would necessitated replacing an otherwise operation display.

.

As far as I know, the Pismo was the last pro level Apple laptop to sport the hinge-ribbon-cable arrangement and mine still works great after all this time. Perhaps in spite of the ram being soldered down, Apple has at last produced a worthy laptop?