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Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad 8 Wi-Fi.
Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
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While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
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Front camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
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Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
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Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
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Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
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Lay the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.
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Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator near the bottom-right corner of the device.
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Remove the vibration isolator.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera cable press connector.
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Insert an opening pick between the front camera shell and the frame.
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Insert a spudger between the front camera and the microphone assembly
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Pry up to separate the front camera's adhesive.
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Remove the front camera.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.
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Repeat for the microphone assembly's press connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left antenna's coaxial cable.
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Repeat for the right antenna's coaxial cable.
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Peel the left antenna cable away from the frame, along the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibration isolator.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingernail to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Peel the Smart Connector cables away from the frame.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the frame:
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Two 2.2 mm-long screws
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Two 3.2 mm-long screws
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.
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Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the frame.
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Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
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Cut a strip of painter's tape or Scotch tape to the width of the iPad.
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Press the bottom edge of the tape strip onto the rear case above the speakers and bottom antennas.
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Press the top edge of the tape strip over the bottom components to keep any cables from intruding on the battery removal.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover.
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
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Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
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The red boxes show the locations of the adhesive strips that secure the battery to the rear case.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.
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Insert a plastic card at the bottom right corner of the battery.
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Remove the plastic card below the battery connector and insert it under the bottom edge of the battery.
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Remove the plastic card above the battery connector and insert it under the upper edge of the battery.
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Slide the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to cut the adhesive strip.
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Insert the plastic card under the upper left corner of the battery.
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Slide the plastic card down towards the bottom of the iPad.
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When you reach the center edge of the battery, insert the plastic card as far as you can to cut the central adhesive strip.
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Remove the battery.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 8 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 8 Answers community for help.
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