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Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen.
This guide was written using a WiFi + Cellular version (Model A2014). If you have a different model, there might be some slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the procedure.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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The first magnet begins about 3 cm from the top of the iPad.
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The second magnet begins about 3 cm from the bottom of the iPad.
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Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.
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Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
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Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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The middle cutout begins 12 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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The bottom cutout is 4 cm from the bottom of the frame and is 3 cm long.
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Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.
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Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.
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Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
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There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here.
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The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.
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Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.
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Leave your pick inserted before continuing.
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Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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One 1.8 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the display cable bracket:
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Four 1.1 mm-long screws
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the SIM card reader cable press connector.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the SIM card reader cable away from the battery connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.
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Use an opening tool to scrape the metal tape off the logic board enough to grab it with tweezers.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the logic board cover:
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Five 2.0 mm-long screws
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Three 1.1 mm-long screws
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three front camera assembly cable press connectors.
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Use a T-3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the front camera assembly.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the front camera, between the middle and right cables.
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Twist the spudger to separate the epoxy securing the front camera.
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Remove the front camera.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.0 mm-long screw securing the bottom speaker bracket to the logic board.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the bottom speaker bracket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four bottom speaker connectors.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector press connector at the bottom of the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four top speaker connectors.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera cable press connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top microphone press connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna by prying as close to its coaxial connector as possible.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top antenna press connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom antenna press connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable by prying as close to its coaxial connector as possible.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cable press connectors.
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Apply high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the right edge of the logic board.
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Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the logic board to separate the bottom adhesive.
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Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Insert an opening pick under the top right edge of the logic board.
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Slide the opening pick toward the battery connector to separate the right adhesive.
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Leave the opening pick inserted next to the battery connector to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to carefully peel and separate the pull tab from the battery—enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
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Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the battery.
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Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
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Insert a plastic card into the gap between the battery and the frame.
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Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.
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Repeat for each battery cell with remaining stretch-release adhesive.
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Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the left battery cell.
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Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
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Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the left battery board.
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Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.
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2 Yorum
Hey guys! After the battery replacement(i made all the steps from the list) the ipad isn’t charging, when I plug in charger its display switches on but it doesn’t indicate that It is charging, then I’ve changed the battery back and it acts the same, what could be an issue? Thank you!
I had the same problem. After I replaced the USB charging socket, everything worked again.
